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Asking all the great ones out there.....

S

S10-4x4

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I am looking at another Blazer...yes...again...and more questions.....
First off its an 86 305 700 np208
Someone has replaced the auto hubs with manual hubs. How does the lights on the dash work? I took it and put it in N then the tcase lever to 4H, went out locked the hubs.....seemed nothing happened. No dash light and didn't engage the 4x4? Is there a special way to do this since there are manual hubs instead of autos?

Second...
When it shifted from 1st to 2nd it had a really good tug and klunk to it? Bad tranny? Whats the cost to reaplce it...and maybe the 305 under the hood too!!!

Third...
Tailgate hinges...RUST...nuf said. How hard is it to replace the sheetmetal if you don't know how to weld just yet?

Fourth.....um....um....ok I guess I am done...

Thanks ya'll for the help.



S10-4x4

J**P...Its what's for dinner
http://s10-4x4.coloradok5.com
 
By the sound of all that, that K5 sounds like its selling for no more than $800 right? Nah, just kidding, but no more than $1200. Anyways, shifting to 4x4, you should shift it first, then lock the hubs. That is what I usually do I think. Never really pay attention, I just do it. It should engage. If not, maybe its not shifted all the way. Or, just try putting the tran in neutral and then shift to 4Lo and then lock the hubs and check to see if it works. If not, then the Tcase could be junk.
The 700R4 tranny, I think GM didn't figure out the problem with them till 87', I think that's the year. Prior to that those tranny were notorious for problems.
Rust, replacing sheet metal aint hard if you know how to weld and cut metal. But it is expensive. I'm sure you'll find more Rust on this truck at Many other places too. Oh, I'm not too thrilled with 305's either, but I know as soon as I start saying bad things about those engines, someone is going to post saying that their 305 kicks A$$, but I would suggest swapping it out for a 350. So, if this person is asking for more than $1200 and can't be talked down to $800 or less, than I would move on. Plenty better out there. When I bought my 75' I ran into all the problems, RUST, blown motor, broken U-joints in front, etc. I know its a PAIN in the A$$ to restore a truck, but hey, its all worth it in the long run. Good luck
Boss

The Boss now allows you to visit his site
http://www.boss.coloradok5.com
 
I switched my hubs from auot to Manual on my 82. The light is activated by the shifter in the floor.( I suppose you are talking about the 4wheel drive light) The hubs have nothing to do with it as far as I know. I never have to back up the 15 feet anymore to unlock the Auto hubs since I have manuals now also. I just put the t-case in 4H and lock in the hubs and I am ready to go. Maybe if your 4H isn't working, maybe you shifter needs adjusting(are the 208s shfters adjustable?) or your mounts are loose and the t-case is moving and not letting you put it in 4whedrive.

Some trannies shift hard, but he klunk could either be a bad U-joint or pinion bearing or you could have tranny problems. Check all the ujoints and the pinion bearings,tranny/t-case mounts to see if there is anything wrong there, if not, you may have tranny problems.
Tryand locate a newer tailgate in a salvage yard or on this site. that would be your easiest solution.

HTH!

Mike
tongue.gif

See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
 
Thanks Boss....
This guy is asking $3500....way too much...but he claims since the body is in such great shape (it looks good for an 86!!) he says the price is right!! I though the guy was smoking dope...especially when he knew the tailgate hinges were rusted out and tried to make me NOT put the tailgate down.....WONDER WHY?
I tried putting it all the way into 4L....nothing...not even a clunk....I think I will talk to this fellow some more...see if I can squeeze some more [censored] out of him.....
I did scare the crap out of him when I asked him about the manual hubs? I asked "Are those hubs stock for an 86?" the answer I got..."Um....um...."
Thanks



S10-4x4

J**P...Its what's for dinner
http://s10-4x4.coloradok5.com
 
Hey Boss I dont know where you live but I am coming out there to buy my next truck. Out here in the Chicagoland area, an 800 dollar truck has no motor or trans and is still rusted..lol something like that around here would go for about 2000-2500 if the body is in decent shape..

BlazerBoy
http://generalblueballs.coloradok5.com
 
Yeah...... that does sound like a 800 dollar blazer. I've seen so many old blazer for cheap here. You can get one with lockers, a lift, 35s and a good motor for bout 1200 dollars. The bodies are rusted but who really cares about that? It is pretty hard to find a diesel blazer here. I am looking for one in the 1000-2000 price range. I saw one for about 1100 in pretty good condition. It had the usual rust but the engine seemed to be pretty good. The more I think about it the better the deal seems to be and the stupider I feel.
 
Hey.
Have you given upp on the diesel?
Maybe this can help you:
There is no "clunk" or sound when you pull the floor level into 4x4.(You dont feel any engagement) The light on the dash is activated by a sensor on top of the t-case. Both my K5's had a loose connection here. Just reach upp and jiggle. The manual hubbs can be turned to the lock position before, during, or after. They are just that, manual hub-locks. No worries. When you turn them off they disengage almost instantly when you back upp some.
Tell him the polished body is not what keep's the truck running. Tell him tailgate's are the work off satan!!. I would investigate the "tug" between 1. and 2. Could be just a U-joint. They are cheap and the people here can tell you how to fix it yourself. And if the dude is a litle eager to get rid of it because he thinks there is something expensive about to go wrong you could get a steal of a bargain. Remember all the tech you have right here at CK5. There is practically nothing this comunity cant help you with.
O yeah, dont do anything before you had the carpet's upp. Specially the rear. all the way under the rear seat. Even if it looks good, poke around the bodymounts with the back off a screw-driver. The floor is double and can rust from the midle.
Good Luck!

http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
 
Get away before it falls apart while you are poking at some peice of it.

1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Gibson, K&N, 3" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's
 
He probably doesn't want you to open the tailgate b/c it will probably fall right off when you do. Check where the hinges bolt to the bed right underneath the truck. See if they're still bolted in or not. If they're just not attatch to the inner part of the tail pan, then the only thing holding them up are maybe the tailgate cables.
Oh, and Blazer Boy, I actually found my K5 in VA. I live in MD. I see lots other K5 here cheap. I would laugh if I saw a K5 like that for that price range. I even saw one a while back for $1200, rebuilt motor and trans. Body was a little rough. If you're looking for a K5, I guess don't look in your area for one. Might get ripped off. But I know different places, different prices.
Boss
http://www.boss.coloradok5.com
thumb.jpg
 
Just because the light doesn't come on doesn't necessarily mean the the 4WD isn't working. It could be a bad bulb or bad relay. You can see if the relay works by slowing working the 'case shifter between 2HI and 4Hi. Somewhere in the middle should give a little click under the dash. (This relay lights the lamp on the dash and disables torque converter lockup). If the relay is not engaging, it could still just be a bad switch in the 'case, but the only way to find out is to test the operation of the 'case. Put it in 4HI, lock the hubs and then drive the truck in a tight turning radius on pavement. If the transfer case is engaging the front axle, the truck will jerk and fight you from turning. (If there is a locker or two, it will fight even harder and will give nice banging and popping noises). Disengage the case and hubs and it should turn normally. Also check to make sure that 4LO works. NP208's have a really low low range, so you will definately be able to tell the difference between the two.

Don't be afraid of aftermarket manual hubs. Pretty much everyone runs them eventually anyway.

Here's another way to test the transfer case. Unlock the hubs, put the case in 2HI and set the parking brake. Get under the truck and try to turn the front driveshaft with your hands. It should turn freely. Now put the case in 4HI (no need to move the truck for it to engage) and try to turn the driveshaft. You should not be able to turn the driveshaft. Even after trying this, I would still never buy the truck before actually driving it in 4WD.

A FIRM shifting transmission is actually a good thing. If your U-joints or ring and pinion are worn, the shift will be accompanied by a clunk. If you get the same clunk when you first shift into D or R, it is probably not a transmission problem. Keep in mind that those trannies are notorious. It's not a bad rule of thumb to say that they need service/overhaul by 100,000 miles. Find out exactly what kind of maintainence has been done on it. Look at the fluid for discoloration or a burned smell, both of which are bad signs. A guy trying to pass off a truck with a bad tranny might change the fluid, though. Even if the transmission is going bad, that does not necessarily mean that the truck has been abused.

'85 JIMMY
'90 paint/grill/trim 5"susp 33/12.5/16.5
Fresh 350 B&M '87 TH700
 
Oh, I forgot. To replace the tranny with a rebuild, it will probably be $1000-$1400. To drop in a 350 engine, there are many options ranging from $500 for a salvage yard engine to $3000 for a high-performance GM crate motor (+installation).

'85 JIMMY
'90 paint/grill/trim 5"susp 33/12.5/16.5
Fresh 350 B&M '87 TH700
 
Ok..to update and ask more questions....
I did the R D R thing.....CLUNK...CLUNK...CLUNK...u joints!!! Never changed em so I will need help...how much will this run my sorry butt?
4x4 works.....damn does it work!! Put it 4Lo.....little gas....head now attached to back window.
And I just found out its a carb...not TBI....shoudl I b worried about this? I am used to a TBI (S10 4.3) and I did notice a lack in umph in getting going..is it me or is it the carb?
Oh...and btw...next time when you say "Engage the parking brake"...maybe you should say "Make sure that there is a parking brake cable!!! There wasn't one!!

This guy is still asking 2500 for this K5 and won't seem to go down...should I start running now?
Thanks


S10-4x4

J**P...Its what's for dinner
http://s10-4x4.coloradok5.com
 
There are some here on the board...but are many miles away from me...and I need something under $2000 and good? Seems everything good is over $5000!!!
I think I will let this one go unless someone else has any other ideas?
Thanks


S10-4x4

J**P...Its what's for dinner
http://s10-4x4.coloradok5.com
 
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