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auto to stick....dumb questions???

bodacious

bodacious

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This may be some dumb questions, but I have a friend with an extra 465/205 combo. I am thinking of putting it in my K5. I currently have a '96 350/th350/np208. What is needed to do this swap. Is there a place/bracket to hang the clutch under the dash, or is that something that I'll need to buy. Is there a difference in the tranny crossmembers/mounts/bushings? What about bellhousings? Will the auto bellhousing bolt to the manual tranny? I have not researched this much, I just got to thinking about it today while I was changing my ATF, which I hate doing. I don't know the condition of either unit, but I'm gonna look into it. He bought an '86 K10 from a guy that had it completely redone for "looks/street" cruising. It has a 383ci/sm465/np205. The guy is going to sell my friend an extra 465/205, a 205 that's ready to mount to an auto, and a set of 35x12.50-15 BFG A/Ts. I have not seen any of the parts,yet, so I don't know the condition of any of it. I am really just thinking about this swap at this point, since I need to do some reasearch on what all will be involved. Sorry to ramble. Oh, I will let anyone who is interested know some prices. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I figured I would get some replies about my drivetrain. The guy who had the Blazer before the guy I bought it from repleced the 6.2diesel/700R4/241 with a '96 350/th350/208. He removed all fuel injection and rplaced it with an Edelbrock intake and Holley carb. Yes, I know the sm465 is a truck trans. K5s are based on a "truck" platform, some K5s even came with them, so what's your point? No offence, but surely you are kidding about your "dream" drivetrain. Why would you want a chaindrive 203 w/ a P/T kit, unless you are going to be doubling t-cases. Just my .02.
 
I went from a TH400 to a SM465 not that long ago...You'll need:

Brake/Clutch bracket that goes under the dash - Hard to find and a pain in the ass to install, but not impossible on either account.

Hydro or linkage type mechanism to push the shift lever. I used the linkage which means I had to get the bracket that goes ont eh frame and the "Z" bar.

The TH400 bellhousing is attached ot the tranny so cannot go withthe 465. I got an aluminum bell housing with the tranny.

Need to replace the flywheel with a pressure plate, install a clutch etc...

Got to cut a hole in the floor for the shift lever.

That's all I can think of right now, but I read the article in the tech section and it was pretty much spot on...
 
Thanx noahrob. That clears up the clutch/brake bracket and the linkage issue. That's really the only two things I was unsure about.
 
I'm not an off roader.

I use my Sub for everyday wheels, and to plow snow. I'm thinking that I'd trust a properly built 700R4. I need full time 4wd. Is there a better way than 203 w/milemarker pt conversion, lockable hubs?
 
Now that I think about it, I think I have the assembly for under the dash for a newer K5...meaning post 1974. Let me know if you decide to do it and I will look.
 
I need full time 4wd. Is there a better way than 203 w/milemarker pt conversion, lockable hubs?[/quote]

A 203 with a p/t kit will not be full time anymore.
 
bodacious said:
I need full time 4wd. Is there a better way than 203 w/milemarker pt conversion, lockable hubs?
Click to expand...

A 203 with a p/t kit will not be full time anymore.[/QUOTE]
...but can't I switch in and out? W
What I want is to be able to roll around on snow, then dry without binding drivetrain. Sorta' like a tight but not locked differential. I have a bunch of '70's dealer brochuress and they talk about the two 4wd ranges (in the 203). HI and HI Locked. I also want to be able to "disconnect" the front dshaft on dry pvmt. If I'm going down the road in the winter in a snowstorm I want AWD, just like the new cars. Isn't the 203 the right way to go? With the MleMarker conversion?
 
If you are running a 203 with a p/t time kit, it will only be 2wd in anything but lock. I ran a 203 with a p/t kit for years- it's kind of a compromise. If you want "awd", leave the case stock and run around in anything but lock. The case will differentiate allowing you to run in all conditions without excessive bind.
 
What I want is to be able to roll around on snow, then dry without binding drivetrain. Sorta' like a tight but not locked differential. I have a bunch of '70's dealer brochuress and they talk about the two 4wd ranges (in the 203). HI and HI Locked. I also want to be able to "disconnect" the front dshaft on dry pvmt. If I'm going down the road in the winter in a snowstorm I want AWD, just like the new cars. Isn't the 203 the right way to go? With the MleMarker conversion?
Click to expand...

Generally it's better to start your own thread rather than hi-jacking someone else's.

That being said you don't need a 203 with a PT kit for what you want to do. A 208, 205, or 241 will all do exactly what you want. In snowy condition I lock my hubs up front, but leave the T-case in 2HI. If it's slippery enough that i feel I want 4WD I pull it back into 4HI. This can be done at any reasonable speed, no need to stop or anything. If the road gets dry and traction is good I let up on the gas and bump it back to 2HI.

I've had two vehicles with AWD T-cases and never found the AWD position to be any better than 4HI in the snow. Certainly not enough difference that I'd specifically swap in an AWD case.

Rene
 
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