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Axle wrap..caused by detroit?

Fry

1/2 ton status
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Wondering if installing a Detroit causes more axle wrap?
I swapped out my 14bsf for a ff with a detroit and I seem to have more axle wrap than before, only when it starts spinning or nears finishing spinning, once spinning at a higher speed it stops. I also got rid of a 2" block that was in the rear at the same time. This is on stock leafs (3/4 ton HIGH GVW) & new shocks.
Also noticed on the highway when I let off and gun it, it seems to jump to one side or the other a bit, wondering if that has anything to do axle wrap or the detroit. Thinking the alignment is off and my caster will be increased with it being 2" lower on the rear, making the handling a little funny.
Any thoughts?
 
There is no caster on your rear end because it doesn't steer.

A detroit could cause more axle wrap because you have more traction.

IMO unless you are running seriously thick spring packs you will have trouble with spring wrap on a lifted K5. I know I have bent the crap out of my rear BDS springs. They are 6" K10 springs which were recommend for a 4" lift on my K5 by a local shop (the truck sat level). I am just riding those out until I link the rear this winter. The front has tons of wrap too (52's with 4 leaves, probably pretty sagged and at about stock ride height).

The jumping from one side to the other on the highway is pretty typical of a detroit IME.

I will be making an anti-wrap bar for the front soon if I don't ditch leaves altogether.
 
ok, as long as the jumping is normal.
Its in a K20, I just didn't notice the axle wrap before but its probably more slick out now with the snow.
I meant the caster angle on the front will be affected by lowering the rear 2".
I will have to get an alignment soon.
Maybe I'll 4 link it instead of buying lift springs in the future... :thinking:
 
In my experience the softer / longer the springs, the worse the axle wrap is... My 96 is absolutely terrible for it with it's light duty 1/2 ton 63" springs. My K25 never used to have any axle wrap at all, but it had very heavy duty 52" springs, 12 leaves per bundle...
 
ok, as long as the jumping is normal.

I think so

Its in a K20, I just didn't notice the axle wrap before but its probably more slick out now with the snow.
I meant the caster angle on the front will be affected by lowering the rear 2".
I will have to get an alignment soon.
Maybe I'll 4 link it instead of buying lift springs in the future... :thinking:

A 4 link requires MUCH more time and MUCH more money than a leaf spring suspension but will perform way better in every scenario (if its setup right).

A leaf spring setup with an antiwrap bar will serve most people very well IMO. Leaves without antiwrap bars have served many people very well for a long time but my experience says otherwise.
 
If you would like to stay with leaves you could always try the asymmetrical trick. It was used with success on old Chrysler muscle cars. Basically, get an extra set of springs and cut down a few leaves by 1/2 and adjust the length. Essentially the extra rate only applies to keeping the front half of the spring from warping
 
I was thinking I wanted to lift it later on, maybe summer. If I buy leaves for that 3-400 plus shocks then add enough rod ends and tube to do half a 4link for an antiwrap bar setup, cost wise I'd be close to a 4 link setup with coilovers, well maybe not good coilovers. I wouldn't need anything extreme just good riding, some flex, good at absorbing ruts and bumps at speed.
Something to think about I guess, I put a 4 link in my 28 model A and it wasn't that bad, so its not totally new to me. This truck has to do more though, tow, go, highway, offroad, etc.
 
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