Basic questions about bolting some heads on...

[divorced]

Ok... the engine is a 3.8 in a '95 Mustang (notorious for head gasket problems), but I feel more confident consulting the brethren of CK5 than I do the peeps on the Mustang forums for engine advice... and they are basic questions anyway.

The engine uses aluminum heads with torque to yeild head bolts.

Answer any or all if you can, thanks.



1. What do I use to clean the block where the head gasket goes? Can it be wiped down with gas to remove the oil/anti freeze from it after scraping it clean?

2. The rocker arms and fulcrums and the push rods have an oil build-up type of film on them. Should they be cleaned? And how do I clean them?

3. The head bolts are supposed to have a thin coat of oil applied to them. Do I coat only the threads, or do I coat the head of the bolt (where it contacts the cylinder head) also?

4. I am supposed to use engine assembly lube on the tips of the rockers and ends of the push rods. Will engine oil work instead? Should I coat the fulcrums with oil or put them in dry? The rockers are tightened to a specific torque value, not the backlash method, if it matters...

5. The injector seals in the heads look kind of like a hat. The new Fel Pro gasket set has only one bag that has 6 items, but they are just o-rings. Are these the new injector seals? Do they need lubed?



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[Masiony]

do not scrape the surface of those heads. or if you have to be VERY carefull. do not scrape over the fire ring. when it comes to the block, it is a little less delicate. gas would probably be adiquate, solvients are solvients. just be sure to clean it well before slaping everything back together.

i cant help you on any of the other questions.

 

[roadnotca]

1. Wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol (90%) or Lacquer Thinner. Gas can clean pretty well, but it leaves residue, IPA & Lacquer Thinner dry clean.
2. Clean thoroughly w carb dip or simple green etc. Be sure the push rods are clear through the bore, use compressed air if you can.
3. Threads and the head.
4. Use Moly type assy lube at the pushrod tips (both ends) and rockers, both tips and fulcrum and ball.
5. From your description, it sounds like the injector seals are purchased separately. Request them at the parts retailer and you'll see they are not included with the Fel-Pro kit.

 

[Thunder]

Roadnotica covered everything else so I'll put in on the injectors. The hat thingy is called a pintle cap. While you have the injectors out replace them. They can get small cracks and cause an air (vaccum) leak. You should also replace the o rings where they plug into the fuel rail. You can get a set of pintle caps and o rings at Napa cheap.
BTW.http://www.corral.net is a great Mustang forum. Good people there. Tons of info.

 

[RustyParts]

I hope you got some new headbolts. I think the ones you have are a one time deal and will have to be replaced.

 

[divorced]

The heads have been milled, I still need to go pick them up. I have new head bolts, too. I think the only parts I still need are the injector seals.

5. From your description, it sounds like the injector seals are purchased separately. Request them at the parts retailer and you'll see they are not included with the Fel-Pro kit.

I asked for them at AutoZone, but the guy said they weren't available. He also didn't seem to know what I was asking for... Here is a picture of the kit, the o-rings are in the bottom right

 

[HarryH3]

I see the problem! You're missing a cylinder on each side!

 

[Thunder]

I know napa carries the injector seal kit i have bought them there before for a 5.0. The V6 uses the same type injectors
The O rings in the kit are the ones you need for the fule rail side of the You should replace them when you pull a injector out. If you cant find the pintle caps just inspect them closely look for little cracks. If there are none you can reuse them. The reason i said to replace them is they harden with age and crack. Replacing them wile you have everything out will save problems down the road.

 

[goldwing2000]

4. Use Moly type assy lube at the pushrod tips (both ends) and rockers, both tips and fulcrum and ball.

If you don't have Moly lube, STP oil treatment works good as an assembly lube, too.