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Battery relocation (Update: Now the questions start...)

I just got back from shopping.
I picked up two of the 3/8 stud terminals. Bluesea brand.
And I bought a solenoid from Oreilly's for just over $20. PN - SS584

I asked the local boat place about the adhesive lined heat shrink, and they really did not know much about it. They do small repairs to boats, but nothing like what Ryoken does.

Still have not found the 2/0 cable for under $4/ft either.
 
yeah, I have 2 of those prestolites.. I keep a spare in the truck... They're one of the major solenoid makers, so the quality is pretty good...

Eventually I'll upgrade to the 450 amp Blue Sea ones... a whole nother level of quality, sealed, waterproof, ABYC, blah, blah...

Should of bought all that stuff last year, what with Blue Seas already healthy prices going thru the roof lately... well, at least the ACR's... :mad: And those slave solenoids run about $100 iirc... :eek1:

I'll have to take you guys some photos tomorrow of the job I'm doing right now.. That boat with that big jackshaft is getting a repower.. 1200 hp 12cylinder Mann's.. The motors are 6' forward of the engine hatch.. had to make starboard skids for the motor mounts and drag the motor and tranny along the stringers back to the hole...

it's only about 3000 lbs! :doah::haha:

back to the regular programming..... If ya need any help, holla.. :D
 
thats a decent price... forget which brand we use... it's pretty damn thick...
 
keep buying 3M... helps my dad's pension! :haha:

cool company anyway... :bow:
 
Got the solenoid and terminals mounted. Pics when my wife returns with the camera.

I will have to do some research about the starter wiring before I post up any questions about how you would do it.
I looked at your schematics briefly.
 
Time to bear with me. Questions....
Attached is the start of the schematic I will use.

Ryoken, on your schematic I see the signal and GND connections on the solenoid.
-- Which connection is for which wire? Mine has no labels.

Also I am assuming that the signal wires are what is relocated from the starter up to the slave?

I have 4 wires going down the tube near the starter.
- One is the knock sensor
- One goes down then right back up after connection to the big lug on the starter
- One goes to the small lug on the starter.

Small lug would be what you have labeled as SIGNAL I assume....where do I want to connect the two that are actually one....if that makes sense?

BATTERY WIRING.jpg
 
readymix said:
Time to bear with me. Questions....
Attached is the start of the schematic I will use.

Ryoken, on your schematic I see the signal and GND connections on the solenoid.
-- Which connection is for which wire? Mine has no labels.

Also I am assuming that the signal wires are what is relocated from the starter up to the slave?

I have 4 wires going down the tube near the starter.
- One is the knock sensor
- One goes down then right back up after connection to the big lug on the starter
- One goes to the small lug on the starter.

Small lug would be what you have labeled as SIGNAL I assume....where do I want to connect the two that are actually one....if that makes sense?
Click to expand...

I always run my grd to the "cold" side of the solenoid... signal to the small post next to the feed...

yes, the signal comes off the starter and goes to the solenoid instead.

any other power feeds (wires coming off the big starter lug) get relocated to the "hot" side of the slave (should be a 10 g fusable link wire that runs over to the junction block by the booster)... the knock sensor, leave or reroute around the front and down behind the alternator like i did..

you then put a jumper between the big lug on the starter and the small lug... your charge wire can go to the "hot" side of the solenoid too...
 
Cool.
Why is it that the wire goes down to the starter just to go back up?
I don't know where it comes form or goes to but I might trace it out just to learn something new.
 
yeah, west marine will hammer ya...

if ya want me to get ya a price, i'll see what i can pick it up for...
 
readymix said:
And if I cut out the fuseable link, what value of fuse should I replace it with?
Click to expand...

i'm running an 80 amp cab feed... iirc, those fusable links are in the 60 range, but dont quote me on that.. my situation is a little different in that I no longer run the factory fuse block and specifac circuits are protected elsewhere..

general rule of thumb is to add up the amps of the fuses for the circuits it's going to protect... that of course is misleading, in the sense that most circuits are not coming close to drawing what they're potential is when operating correctly..

One of these days I'll finish up that wiring diagram... priority #107 :haha:
 
Well I think hte bigger cable runs to the junction on the DS firewall, and that is as far as I have gotten so far.


Any reason that I should not remove all of the split loom. I hate that stuff.
 
As much as it sucks, it is worth it to help prevent shorts. It helps insulate against heat, as well as protecting against pinching and sharp edges. If it is in a secure area where nothing can touch it, remove the split loom, but otherwise it is better and safer to keep it. Best thing to do is replace it with new.
 
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