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Blazer Bash 2022 not Last Minute Thrash

r3dd0g

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We pulled the front diff cover today, everything looks good and what I thought was backlash was actually just slop in one of the axle shafts. HOWEVER I did notice that every single bolt on the ring gear is finger tight and that was also slipping just a tiny bit on the carrier... No locktight in the the threads so that's the issue.

Hopefully it didn't make the ring gear too loose on the carrier, but for now it will get cleaned up and properly torqued with locktight. I'll probably pull the cover again after Sand Hollow and make sure it doesn't come loose again, otherwise the lack of Locktight by M4O is going to cost me a new ARB and gears...
 

r3dd0g

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it's back together now (except oil and the one cover bolt that stripped out at like 10 ft-lbs). It bothers me that the ring gear was loose on the carrier, but we'll have to see how it works out.

Some of the ring gear bolts had the faintest application of lock tight but I pulled them all, cleaned them, locktighted and torqued. I also pulled the bearing cap bolts cleaned, locktighted and retorqued those as well.
 

AugustDiesel

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My first time chiming in on this thread but I’m planning on making the trip so here goes.

Just finished up building the new transmission crossmember for the truck. The last one was too rigid. Split my tcase adapter into 3 pieces at BB2020, ORD hooked me up with a new one so I could get home, and I finally replaced it. Incorporated a quasi skid plate into it as well.

6C6079E2-FFA0-4C43-B555-A72B5F3ACB38.jpeg 6395A5DC-AB49-47CC-83E0-CD3BC4BB3D49.jpeg 0C3FC501-8DF5-4F2D-8E6A-CB94948DA658.jpeg

Next up is the turbo. Finally. Along with a new injection pump. Injectors. Glow plugs. Exhaust. Then a big brake upgrade. Fix some wiring maybe. Relocate batteries for the third time. Add a third battery maybe. Floor shifter on backorder. ORD Xtreme travel rear shackles and hangers.

All the good stuff.

Planning/hoping to have it all wrapped up by early summer.

We beat it out to BB2020 with less than 100 cumulative test miles on the truck, 0 off-road miles, and we’re pretty dang lucky to only have cracked the adapter, having driven over 2,000 miles from the Florida east coast, wheeled in Moab, driven as high as 12,000 feet in Colorado after leaving ORD’s shop, and driven 2,000 miles back to Florida.

I’ve always been a last minute thrash kind of person. Not by choice. Just seems to be the way it goes. But I’ve been steadily working to change that this time around.

Andy
 

Babaganoosh

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My first time chiming in on this thread but I’m planning on making the trip so here goes.

Just finished up building the new transmission crossmember for the truck. The last one was too rigid. Split my tcase adapter into 3 pieces at BB2020, ORD hooked me up with a new one so I could get home, and I finally replaced it. Incorporated a quasi skid plate into it as well.

View attachment 404959 View attachment 404958 View attachment 404960

Next up is the turbo. Finally. Along with a new injection pump. Injectors. Glow plugs. Exhaust. Then a big brake upgrade. Fix some wiring maybe. Relocate batteries for the third time. Add a third battery maybe. Floor shifter on backorder. ORD Xtreme travel rear shackles and hangers.

All the good stuff.

Planning/hoping to have it all wrapped up by early summer.

We beat it out to BB2020 with less than 100 cumulative test miles on the truck, 0 off-road miles, and we’re pretty dang lucky to only have cracked the adapter, having driven over 2,000 miles from the Florida east coast, wheeled in Moab, driven as high as 12,000 feet in Colorado after leaving ORD’s shop, and driven 2,000 miles back to Florida.

I’ve always been a last minute thrash kind of person. Not by choice. Just seems to be the way it goes. But I’ve been steadily working to change that this time around.

Andy
I seem to fall into that as well, I usually try and get all upgrades done and tested before 4th of July. Once the 4th hits I park the truck and go over everything then load it on the trailer and head to moab.
 

Tnsejed

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it's back together now (except oil and the one cover bolt that stripped out at like 10 ft-lbs). It bothers me that the ring gear was loose on the carrier, but we'll have to see how it works out.

Some of the ring gear bolts had the faintest application of lock tight but I pulled them all, cleaned them, locktighted and torqued. I also pulled the bearing cap bolts cleaned, locktighted and retorqued those as well.

They probably loctited them but never cleaned the damn cosmoline off the bolts and ring gear. So the loctite just dissolved into the oil.
 

r3dd0g

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I finished up the front axle and I've moved to the rear. Last time I took the S-10 out the rear ARB decided locking was more of a suggestion than an absolute. After talking with @Stephen I ordered the parts we thought I needed to fix it, but everything was on backorder with no ETA. I managed to find one on Amazon and ordered a full replacement locker as well figuring I'd sell the "rebuilt" locker once I got the parts.

Turns out I delayed working on the S-10 so long the parts showed up last week... Good thing I bought another locker though, because when I pulled it I found that one of the carrier bearings had spun on the carrier and was now loose. I guess I'll need one more part to rebuild the locker but at least I have the new one I can drop in.

The odd thing is while I was cleaning up parts for assembly, I realized the air line wasn't properly brazed to the seal housing so I'll need to fix that before it goes in.

Sand Hollow is in 3 weeks or so, but I should only have another day or two of wrenching. The ballistic shaved 14 bolt really takes a beating on the bottom 4 bolts which makes it quite difficult to remove. I picked up a 3/8" AR steel target I'm going to cut up somehow (plasma?) and weld on to the bottom overlapping the bottom of the diff cover to protect the bolt holes a bit better. I'm not sure what other people have done here or maybe they just replace the diff cover every time they take it off?
 

Tnsejed

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I picked up a 3/8" AR steel target I'm going to cut up somehow (plasma?) and weld on to the bottom overlapping the bottom of the diff cover to protect the bolt holes a bit better. I'm not sure what other people have done here or maybe they just replace the diff cover every time they take it off?

The AR plate may work. If its a target already its probably hardened. So plasma will work, it will of course affect the heat treat by completely junking the heat treating, but the welding will do the same, hence plasma is fine.

My skid is made from AR400. I've had issues with the welded plugs for mounting breaking the base material due the HAZ being completely unpredictable. When you weld it you are effectively bringing the material up to the austenitizing phase, then during cooling its forming to martenisite. But in a terrible way with a new alloy mixture of er70s6, and both base materials. I've read in some heavy equipment welding articles that's the main concern.

A cool approach, if possible, would be a bolt on AR plate that is then replaceable. But it depends on the ground clearance you want to sacrifice.
 

r3dd0g

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The AR plate may work. If its a target already its probably hardened. So plasma will work, it will of course affect the heat treat by completely junking the heat treating, but the welding will do the same, hence plasma is fine.

My skid is made from AR400. I've had issues with the welded plugs for mounting breaking the base material due the HAZ being completely unpredictable. When you weld it you are effectively bringing the material up to the austenitizing phase, then during cooling its forming to martenisite. But in a terrible way with a new alloy mixture of er70s6, and both base materials. I've read in some heavy equipment welding articles that's the main concern.

A cool approach, if possible, would be a bolt on AR plate that is then replaceable. But it depends on the ground clearance you want to sacrifice.
The plasma would only affect the heat treating in the immediate area, welding obviously would affect more.

The rock jock front on the S-10 actually has a replaceable bolt on AR plate that's only about 1/8" thick. The main issue with it is the bolts get ground off.
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I'm just not sure how I'd do something like that on the 14 bolt, plus I don't have a source for custom plates like that obviously.
 

Tnsejed

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The plasma would only affect the heat treating in the immediate area, welding obviously would affect more.

The rock jock front on the S-10 actually has a replaceable bolt on AR plate that's only about 1/8" thick. The main issue with it is the bolts get ground off.

I'm just not sure how I'd do something like that on the 14 bolt, plus I don't have a source for custom plates like that obviously.

Exposed bolts bring the suck. there really isn't a good solution is there. I know my lower cover bolts get ground down and the cover gets beat into the holes etc.. I just build it back up with weld and machine the counterbores. I'm not shaved though.

Don't want to get into a situation where the overhang bends up, blocking the bolts. The AR500 will crack if it bends too much. Only way to find out though is to try. I don't think you'd need to ovehang much though. Or even just flush with the outside of the cover should help alot. It's funny but we shave em for clearance, find this issue, then build it back up and lose some of the clearance.

When cutting the plate you can do it with a really good bimetal bandsaw blade. My Lennox diemaster II's will cut hardened ar500. Its not actually that hard on the rockwell scale. So you could preserve the HT at the area where it is near the bolts.
 

r3dd0g

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I don't plan on extending the plate past the diff cover, I just want some metal under it so when I drag it on rocks it doesn't smash the bolts up, 2 are countersunk and get trapped.
 

r3dd0g

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I got the S-10 back together and took it on a 150 mile "shakedown" run last weekend, some rocks, a lot of dirt and a lot of pavement. Everything is working well except the A/C blower, but I figured out what's wrong with that and parts are incoming.

2 weeks until Sand Hollow, then I'll have to fix everything I break there again before Blazer Bash...
 

cheavyk10

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Can I bring this thread back??
2 months to go gents....

Got ORD's crossover kit installed a few months ago, along with a Cardone box and a Derale cooler.

Today I installed ORD's HD tierod. I went with the 1 1/2" .375 wall version. It just touches the Barnes diff cover at full right lock. Also added a RuffStuff rod clamp for the stabilizer.

I will be adding hydro assist, I have a PSC ram, all the lines and fittings, and the diy4x end cap. I also purchased the diy4x ram mount that bolts to the diff cover, but it won't work with the Barnes cover.

Maybe I'll be able to steer this year!! :D IMG_20220701_140958094~2.jpg IMG_20220701_140942659~2.jpg
 

r3dd0g

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I'll update my progress I guess since you drug this back up!

The S-10 didn't break in Sand Hollow, so it's GTG. I just need to get the nitrous tank refilled.

We're still debating bringing the Silverado since we're doing FSI after BB. That's got it's own thread of despair, but it should be ready whether we bring it or not.
 

r3dd0g

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I forgot to mention about the AR plate I welded on, it's holding up great! I've drug it over quite a few rocks both here and in Sand Hollow, so I'm pretty confident it's going to hold up just fine.
 
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