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Bomb proofing a Dana 44 front

Joel Wilson

Joel Wilson

1/2 ton status
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OK, I want to put a locker in the front of my 77 GMC Jimmy. Rear already has a Gov Lok and works well. I am running 35's with a NP 203 case and Warn HD hubs, and a TH350 with 3.73 gears. Weight with tools and crap is around 6400lbs. Engine is a SBC 400 putting out close to 415hp and well over 500 lbs of torque. I work at a sand a gravel pit so I am always in sandy gravel and I am not a rock crawler. Everything west of me is shale or mud. I am looking at an Aussie locker or a Torq locker. So my question is, what can I replace to upgrade my 44 while I have the front end apart. I am not a hard core wheeler and I don't abuse the rig but it does get used in 4wd several times a week. Last time I had to seriously use the 4wd was to help a Duramax pull a loaded Kenworth front end sideways about 8 ft. I feel that a locker in the front and I wouldn't have had to rock the front end back and forth. Even though it was fun. Holy crap it was fun.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Joel
norcal
 
I trust you saw this thread. Lots are the same

10 bolt chromoly front axle shafts...???

Here's the catalog link. 28 spline is the only variant needing the upgraded carrier. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=4245
ck5.com ck5.com

Obviously there are no interchange issues with the D44
 
The brands apply to the D44 axles also

I will say this, nothing is bomb proof. If you make one thing better, it will find another week point

I do run the Spicer 5-760x joints
 
Agreed on nothing is bomb proof but I don't beat on this old girl like it's a redheaded stepchild either. I know I carry extra weight so I know I need a bit extra quality otherwise I end up fixing stuff every other week.

I am thinking of replacing the front ujoints and the front driveline when I put in the new locker. Rear driveline has already been replaced (not exactly cheap) along with all ball joints, and tie rod ends. 40 some odd years on OEM is enough to ask before replacement.

Joel
norcal
 
If you really want to bomb proof a 44 with a locker, going with RCV shafts is the way to go. Chromo shafts with yukon super joints are next, then chromo shafts with spicer joints.

What I'm not sure of is being full-time with the 203 and how much strain the front end is going to see driving on the pavement with tight turns.
 
Also, IMO, ditch the thought of anything except a selectable locker. It’s either locked or it isn’t. All these powerlicks, Aussie clockers, true-cracks and shit just load up and break parts.
 
Fastereddie said:
Also, IMO, ditch the thought of anything except a selectable locker. It’s either locked or it isn’t. All these powerlicks, Aussie clockers, true-cracks and shit just load up and break parts.
Click to expand...
Actually a powr-lok will declutch
 
Fastereddie said:
Also, IMO, ditch the thought of anything except a selectable locker. It’s either locked or it isn’t. All these powerlicks, Aussie clockers, true-cracks and shit just load up and break parts.
Click to expand...
I have a different opinion on this matter. Sure, a full locker does put more stress on components but that is also the situation when you need a locker. Don't understand the purpose of having a selectable front locker if you are going to unlock when you really need it because of the stress. Used to have a guy in our fourwheeling club with an ARB selectable in this front diff. Whenever he got on a tough obstacle he would turn it OFF to not stress the axle......then proceed to beat on the rig twice as hard to try to get up the obstacle because the front wasn't locked up. Actually saw him break the front axle a couple times with it UNLOCKED because of this.
Biggest thing is you have to use a little common sense and understand the situations that will cause something to break. You can't stuff one side front tire down in a big rut, crank the wheel all the way to one side, and floor it. Keeping the steering as straight as possible, and not shock loading the axle by bouncing or erratic throttle always helps. But in any case I wouldn't be too worried about a D44 front on 35's.
 
The plan for my Dana 44s is chromoly shafts 30 spline inside and out with super joints and running Jeep JK dana 44 gears with a Jantz conversion kit. the JK gears are "44%" stronger with a much larger pinion gear. The shaft and yoke on that pinion are dana 60 sized and ring gear is 1/2" larger than standard. The weak links in dana 44s as far as I can see is U joints, then shafts, and then gears. Once all those are upgraded the next weak link I'm hoping is my drive shaft. Those are cheap and easy enough to repair.

www.jantz4x4.com/jantz.php?p=detail&pro=jana_k4
 
I built a gm dana 44 with jk gears and a 50 carrier. I put 35 spline 60 side gears in it and welded it. Ran 60 shafts and kingpin outers. Probably the best ground clearance and strength I could figure for a small tire rig.
 
obijuank5 said:
I built a gm dana 44 with jk gears and a 50 carrier. I put 35 spline 60 side gears in it and welded it. Ran 60 shafts and kingpin outers. Probably the best ground clearance and strength I could figure for a small tire rig.
Click to expand...

That thing sounds like beef. The ground clearance is the biggest thing that kept me from going to tons on my willys. Built for 35"/37"s which are small tires now days. Im sure I'll get to king pin outers some day on the front. I'm collecting parts to full float my rear right now.
 
Back along time ago, you know when rocks were still soft, had a K5 set up as a three-quarter ton

The front was a Dana 44 with an ARB, warn chromeMoly shafts, and spicer joints in the shafts. I beat the bastard mercilessly, I never broke one of the axle shaft joints. I did finally break the cross pin in the ARB, but only after towing a dead CJ-7 of carnage Canyon in Buena Vista.
 
6.2Blazer said:
I have a different opinion on this matter. Sure, a full locker does put more stress on components but that is also the situation when you need a locker. Don't understand the purpose of having a selectable front locker if you are going to unlock when you really need it because of the stress. Used to have a guy in our fourwheeling club with an ARB selectable in this front diff. Whenever he got on a tough obstacle he would turn it OFF to not stress the axle......then proceed to beat on the rig twice as hard to try to get up the obstacle because the front wasn't locked up. Actually saw him break the front axle a couple times with it UNLOCKED because of this.
Biggest thing is you have to use a little common sense and understand the situations that will cause something to break. You can't stuff one side front tire down in a big rut, crank the wheel all the way to one side, and floor it. Keeping the steering as straight as possible, and not shock loading the axle by bouncing or erratic throttle always helps. But in any case I wouldn't be too worried about a D44 front on 35's.
Click to expand...
Yeah, aside from stupid, they hold up well enough. If you’re gonna eat crayons though, you gotta buy more parts!
 
6.2Blazer said:
I have a different opinion on this matter. Sure, a full locker does put more stress on components but that is also the situation when you need a locker. Don't understand the purpose of having a selectable front locker if you are going to unlock when you really need it because of the stress. Used to have a guy in our fourwheeling club with an ARB selectable in this front diff. Whenever he got on a tough obstacle he would turn it OFF to not stress the axle......then proceed to beat on the rig twice as hard to try to get up the obstacle because the front wasn't locked up. Actually saw him break the front axle a couple times with it UNLOCKED because of this.
Biggest thing is you have to use a little common sense and understand the situations that will cause something to break. You can't stuff one side front tire down in a big rut, crank the wheel all the way to one side, and floor it. Keeping the steering as straight as possible, and not shock loading the axle by bouncing or erratic throttle always helps. But in any case I wouldn't be too worried about a D44 front on 35's.
Click to expand...
I didn’t mean unlock it when the going gets tough. I’m saying a selectable locker stays locked and doesn’t unload when you don’t want it to.
 
Bent77 said:
Actually a powr-lok will
Click to expand...

Fastereddie said:
I didn’t mean unlock it when the going gets tough. I’m saying a selectable locker stays locked and doesn’t unload when you don’t want it to.
Click to expand...
Question then. Is there a front locker out there that will lock up like an Eaton G80 will? That's what I have in the rear and it has yet to fail me in any condition. I can go out in loose gravel right now and step on it and both rear tires will light up. I turn left or right and no tire chirp, nothing. I have never felt it lock or unlock but everytime I have needed it, both rear tires spin.

Joel
norcal
 
Eaton posi maybe. Not sure how well the trutrac unlocks.
I’m a fan of the selectables, but I’m running a Dana Powr-Lok. You can feel it, but it’s not bad. Ram it without assist, just cross over, no issue
 
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