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Broken stubshaft 35spline chromemoly

Ronnie4wd

Ronnie4wd

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And probably the detroit.
The stub was a yukon.
So now what to do I ran the standard inners and u-joints and want to upgrade them too.
What is strong enough for my 150hp 6.2 :doah:
When the stub snapped I couldn't get it to drive at all in the front wheels and no bad sounds inside the housing of the D60 that is why I think I broke the detroit too.
Do I get another detroit and new shafts and what shafts and u-joints :dunno:
 
Find shafts made in the USA. Yukon has shafts made in India and the US. I broke a Yukon stub and switched to Spicer shafts. I took my Detroit apart and checked the teeth, they were fine. Ouversonengineering.com is working on some high quality Dana 60 front shafts but it might be a couple months before they are for sale (estimated price is @$200-250 each 4340). CTM and RCV sell high quality shafts but the price it $2,000-$5,000 for a set. Foote Axle and Forge makes good shafts but I dont know who sells them.
 
If your detroit is broke you can buy the replacement parts to fix it for about $350. That is if you need all 3 pieces. Usually you only need one or two.

Here is the parts list for a low pinion, D-60F, 35 spline axle GM front.

image001.png

Per Detroit the picture of the parts in this image is not representative of the part you will recieve. I have ordered these part numbers & recieved the correct part. The image is not a dana 60 detroit.

Usually break:

Item 4 - 67465 - Clutch & H.O.R. Asemb
Item 3 - 67614 - Spider & C'Cam Asemb

It takes 2 67465's one on each side. Usually you only break one of them. Sometimes the SPider Assembly will not be wasted. Just have to tear down & see.
 
Thanks for the answers guys.
Now I just have to bring the axle to were I work and tear it down and see what is wrong.
The stub I know bc when I took out the driveflange I could just pull the stub out too.
It's straght off just outside of were the u-joint is before the little bearing surface.
So I think it's a little strange it broke were it's thickest or is it just welded to the yoke and that is were it broke :dunno:
 
A buddy of mine trashed his yukons the first run...

They are hit and miss...

Randy's made everything good though...

Another buddy is running the the RCV shafts with no problems as of yet...

I'm running spicer 35 spline outers with welded caps... I'll see how long they last...

Not running a detroit, so no input there...
 
NO it is not welded. If it broke were the shaft meats the yoke then they break there because of the diameter change.

I am thinking Yukons have a warrentee. Better check into that.
 
I run 10 factory on my 07, welded front, 35 spline outers and flanges.. tons of 5500 rpm launches and even some landings with my foot on the throttle and they are doing great!

Andrew over at letzrolloffroad sells them for a fair price.

-shawn



ditto on the yukon crap 6 shafts hit or miss it seems.
 
Thanks guys.
This will take some time before it's fixed though.
I'm short of money and time.
I'll come back when the axle is torn apart.
 
No I haven't open the d60 yet .
I am thinking I should get 10 factory 4340 axles.
But the u-joints should I get CTMs are they worth the money for me with the 6.2 diesel.
I want a bulletproof d60 (thought it was before this carnage).
And what about the detroit maybe weld the front instead.
 
Anyone here running those ?
That would be 3-400 more than CTMs and 4340 superior axles so now if it is bulletproof maybe it is worth it.
More input please :bow:
 
Here are some pics of the carnage and some of axles that a formulaoffroad team has and I can buy them.
The short inner has superior axle written on it
the long inner says H02 and the outers says H04.
The axles that are not superior anyone recognize them?
Nitro u-joints are real strong but are they strong as CTMs.
They want a lot of money for the stuff but it's here in Sweden so maybe it's worth it.
If the axles and u-joints are as good as CTMs and superiors it's a good price but if it's a lottery like Yukons I won't buy them.
6543564033_large.jpg

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6543564037_large.jpg

6543564038_large.jpg

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6543564040_large.jpg
 
The Nitro joints are Gen2 Longfields made by RCV. Bobby Long made a better design (Gen3) and RCV is selling the old design to Nitro, they will wear out before they break. Im not sure about the shafts, if they have a replacement warranty I would get them, if not, buy a set that does.

My guess on the shafts would be that they are all made in India, by the casting finish, shape and machine work. Most axle sellers are middlemen. Only a few companies make and sell shafts like CTM, RCV and Ouverson Engineering. Spicer 35 spline stubs shafts are good but not 4xxx seies alloy.

Where your shaft broke is odd. Looks like a high speed break, possibly bad metal. Do those shafts have a warranty?
 
Thanks GreenieK30.
I will not buy those shafts because there are no papers and no warranties with them so I can't be certain what they are.
I'm still thinking I will go for the RCVs next spring when I can afford them.
When the stub broke I went a couple of meters downhill about 35 degrees and had to reverse and turn to pass a tree I guess the whole weight of the truck was on the wheel were the stub broke and it broke when I tried to back up.
They should be 4340 chrome moly.
Casting on the stub says 4340 and they are Yukons probably made in India.
I am still trying to get the papers on my stubs from the guy who sold them to me here in Sweden.
Next time I'll be certain I buy direct from the ones that makes the stuff I need, like RCV.
 
I have bought a standard stub and did put the front together probably going to put it under the truck this weekend and see how the Detroit works.
 
I did put it under the truck this weekend and at first it did not drive the left wheel but after some driving and a couple of small bangs it is now locked 100%.
So I'm going to drive it like this really hard to steer but always locked until next spring when I can afford to repair the Detroit and buy the RCVs.
 
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