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Building a 500hp 454

Lots of talk about improved compression numbers. Just to say it out loud, the typical stock 454 has 7.9 compression.

Also, a roller cam swap is more in the $800-$900 range unless you already have some parts. Just the cam will be $300 plus the lifters, push rods, rockers and springs.
 
Lots of talk about improved compression numbers. Just to say it out loud, the typical stock 454 has 7.9 compression.

Also, a roller cam swap is more in the $800-$900 range unless you already have some parts. Just the cam will be $300 plus the lifters, push rods, rockers and springs.
That's a given with when building a high performance engine no?
For his application I wouldn't go over 10.0 to 1
 
That's a given with when building a high performance engine no?
For his application I wouldn't go over 10.0 to 1

I'm building about the same thing eventually, would be built, but my ex union f-ed me... long story short, after a lot of talking with Ebke, my plan is .100 over, with as much stroke as I can cram in a 445 block. I'll be keeping the 781's, as for what I want, they won't be a setback. After all my reading and discussion with John, I was planning to stay at 9.25:1 or so. I want something strong, but be able to tow, and work as well.

Was also planning a Straub cam. I have heard nothing but 100% good reviews on his products.
 
With it being a rebuilt engine have you see the lifter valley? Reason I ask is if it has built in provisions for a roller cam. Not a big deal if it doesn't, but it's a little cheaper cam wise if it does. Budget wise, look for a good set of used l29 heads. They're iron, but have really good flow rates and can often be had for a lot cheaper than aftermarket aluminum. Maybe find a good running l29 and swap cam, intake for your sniper, and sell your original block to recoup some cost)
Lifter valley pics:

20161115_132641.jpg

20161115_132657.jpg
 
Long range plan once the boys are out of the house in about 5 yrs we'll do a "new" truck, 98-03ish. At that point I'd look for one with an 8.1 or 6.0 already in it. Then the 454 would probably go in the 73 C10 if I haven't done anything else for an engine in it. Or the wife wants an 80's K10 and maybe it would go in that.
 
There is so much more to it than just buying parts and throwing it on. I build them professionally. Be glad to help you pick parts the smart way. Need much more info, though to do it right. If it is a jasper, its hit or miss from day one, but if it has 20k on it it was likely a good one. If it was a jasper stock replacement, it will have stock compression ratio. What vehicle was it otdered for, we can look up oe spec.
Next important round of questions: what transmission? Gearing? Tire size?
What is the intended use, towing and wheeling, go for torque, not hp. 500 hp is cake. If a roller cam is in the budget, realistically $1000, go for it. But it is not a necessity at that level. Depending on compression ratio, aluminum heads might cost you power!
Is your cooling system up to snuff? Ignition?
You can get an iron oval port head and the right flat tappet and do close to 500 hp and 550 torque and be rock solid if your other components MATCH. If you have the Jasper ID number, build specs are a phone call away.
This is all very doable, and you dont have to break the bank. Of course, if you have big budget, and decent pistons, AFR heads are the way to go. Good luck, I'll be watching
 
I made sure to get a picture of the Jasper info in case I could use it.

2017-01-05 16.06.36.jpg

I'm pretty it was ordered as a stock replacement for the 85 K30 we pulled it from.

I was thinking aluminum heads because of the weight difference but in reality my truck is so heavy it really wouldn't make that much difference.
 
As much of a fan of the 8.1 I am, The setup Mrk5 has is a good starting point to build from. No sense in throwing the baby out with the bathwater anyway.

Having never built a BBC myself I would be lacking in the experience department for where to go next with the build.
 
There is so much more to it than just buying parts and throwing it on. I build them professionally. Be glad to help you pick parts the smart way. Need much more info, though to do it right. If it is a jasper, its hit or miss from day one, but if it has 20k on it it was likely a good one. If it was a jasper stock replacement, it will have stock compression ratio. What vehicle was it otdered for, we can look up oe spec.
Next important round of questions: what transmission? Gearing? Tire size?
What is the intended use, towing and wheeling, go for torque, not hp. 500 hp is cake. If a roller cam is in the budget, realistically $1000, go for it. But it is not a necessity at that level. Depending on compression ratio, aluminum heads might cost you power!
Is your cooling system up to snuff? Ignition?
You can get an iron oval port head and the right flat tappet and do close to 500 hp and 550 torque and be rock solid if your other components MATCH. If you have the Jasper ID number, build specs are a phone call away.
This is all very doable, and you dont have to break the bank. Of course, if you have big budget, and decent pistons, AFR heads are the way to go. Good luck, I'll be watching
I would like to know how you think aluminum heads will cost you power based on compression ratio.
 
I am interested to hear this as well. My first thought was "costing power" as in low end torque.
Yeah, aluminum heads are win win for me. Less weight, and will help you bump compression because of better cooling- heat transfer.
I also don't think anyone suggested to toss parts at it to reach his goals. Just saying at a minimum what he needs to think about and budget considerations for him to think about.
It's all a balancing act in to make it work and carefully get what you need within your budget.
 
Yeah, aluminum heads are win win for me. Less weight, and will help you bump compression because of better cooling- heat transfer.
I also don't think anyone suggested to toss parts at it to reach his goals. Just saying at a minimum what he needs to think about and budget considerations for him to think about.
It's all a balancing act in to make it work and carefully get what you need within your budget.

I fully agree. For my goals, the 781s won't be a setback, ideally, 450 horse, and 550 ft lbs. I won't be pushing the compression I could with AL, but that's fine, will probably need premium regardless. Weight is a non issue for me, with my POS superlift springs it will probably help.

Unpopular opinion... peanut ports aren't as bad as they're made out to be for truck use.
 
Unpopular opinion... peanut ports aren't as bad as they're made out to be for truck use.

Get out of here with that shit. Eh @Bowtie85 ?
Lol I have peanut ports on my tbi. I backed her on the Dyno in School. Let the record show she cranked out 512 ft lbs.
But if I was going to build an HP engine the minimum is 781s. I have a set if you want, scott
 
Get out of here with that shit. Eh @Bowtie85 ?
Lol I have peanut ports on my tbi. I backed her on the Dyno in School. Let the record show she cranked out 512 ft lbs.
But if I was going to build an HP engine the minimum is 781s. I have a set if you want, scott

Exactly. The average guy throwing something together to haul his boat/camper/whatever would be fine with peanuts on a good combination. This isn't SBC stuff. Big block heads work.

I've got a set. Hopefully good ones, but I will keep that in mind. I'll take all the 781s, and Quadrajets you can send me.
 
My most basic suggestion is a 496 stroker kit, mild cam and good heads. That would make 500+hp and 600+tq all day. Now depending on what cam you use, will determine where in the rpm range it makes that power.

But that's where I would start.
 
My most basic suggestion is a 496 stroker kit, mild cam and good heads. That would make 500+hp and 600+tq all day. Now depending on what cam you use, will determine where in the rpm range it makes that power.

But that's where I would start.

If the bottom end needed work, I would fully agree, 100%. With a strong bottom end I dont see it making sense to start changing that when we start talking $$$.
 
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