CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Building Blazer still

Yep, looks about like my tank just slightly different shape. Because mine is skinny/wide I run 2 walbos in opposite corners. For your tank I would either run 3 (2 in back corners and 1 in middle of front edge) or just do 4 (1 in each corner)

Just get an adjustable proportioning valve and be done. PM rfda_454 he is parting out his rig and just bought a new one and wheeled 1 day and is now parting his K5 out. Not sure of his brand but it is like this like what I have. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905/
 
I may have more problems with my brakes that this. I can not stop it when I an in Low/Low. I thought is was not enough vacum at idle with the bb so I put an electric vacum pump in it but that did not solve the problem, made it better but not solve it. Could the Master cylinder not be big enough with the 44" tires? I stop fine in high gear but the brakes feel a little spungy.
 
I have the stock S10 vacuum brake booster and a master cylinder out of an 88 1-ton chevy on mine. Do you still have the stock proportioning valve on the frame still?
 
I think I would ditch it and get an adjustable and see where you are with that. The stock one might be causing some of the issue.
 
I wouldn't waste the money on that one. Get and adjustable. Spend 5 minutes adjusting. Done.
 
On mine after I got it adjusted I made a mark on the knob and the housing with a paint pen then counted how many turns back to closed and wrote that on the mount then adjusted back out. That way if it got screwed with I could go back to my setting easily.
 
You might also make sure the cutting brakes are bleed good. Norby and I both had to get a little violent with ours to get them bled all the way once they bled they have been good to go though.
 
You might also make sure the cutting brakes are bleed good. Norby and I both had to get a little violent with ours to get them bled all the way once they bled they have been good to go though.


I am thinking you are right and I must have air in the system still! Any sugestions? I bleed them 3 times in Moab thinking that was the problem, I got air out two of the times then the last time no air so I thought I had it. The Blazer has a new MC & an electric Vacume Pump. It has the stock Prop Valve but I can not get any tire to lock up, I can stop but not lock up. In Low/Low not a chance of stopping, pulls right threw the brakes.
I bet you are right & I am over thinking the problem here and it is still an Air in the Lines issue! Any hints to solve this problem!!:dunno:
 
Norbys bleed out in south Dakota one year. He was on a little climb and bounced and pounded the brakes, they went to the floor. Worked great after that. He had the same not great pedal feel as you said, and we bled and bled them. When I redid my brake setup with the rear disc and cutters I was fighting the same thing. At my house I have a ditch that is pretty good size. I can jump the front end out of it. So I was doing that and grabbing the cutters as the front came down,and as I let go of those I would pound the pedal as hard as I could. After a few tries the pedal hit the floor and it's been great since. Makes for a rough stop but works. Makes the cutting handles snap back up after being pulled, basically forcing fluid back into them rapidly. I might have rebled them after that too just to make sure the air wasn't trapped out at the end, but don't really remember.
 
Find someone with a pressure bleeder. After you put an adjustable proportioning valve in, pressure bleed it. Makes all the difference in the word.
 
Vacuum blenders don't work well. It sucks air by the blender threads. So you are always seeing air. Threw mine away.
 
Top Bottom