What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Building Blazer still

Overview Gallery Discussion
Mike I agree with ditching the factory prop valve, and adjustable with a disc/disc m/c should do fine (in addition to the proper bleeding steps mentioned)
I had to make a custom pushrod for my m/c to make sure I was getting full stroke on the piston, might want to just double check that also.
 
Also, what's your torque converter stall speed? To low and you will never stop it in low low.

I have run a "factory" Th350 stall converter guessing under 2,000 rpm, and a known 2,500 to 3,000 rpm converter. There is a noticeable difference between the two as to how hard it is to stop in low gear.

There are also some games to play with full manual systems that work well. I like full manual systems because they are always the same motor running vs. off.
 
This is the specs on the TC from High Impact. "HD torque converter, stock stall, furnace brazed converter elements, needle roller bearings". I know the Torque on the 555 starts really coming on at 1,800 rpms on the dyno.
Do you think I should bite the bullet and go with the Vanco Power Brake system, basically a Hydroboost kit that will work with Full Hydro steering? http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/66.htm
I read a pretty good brake article on Pirate4x4 & it seems to work really good but not cheap. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/
Please let me know your thoughts!
 
Raiderblaz said:
This is the specs on the TC from High Impact. "HD torque converter, stock stall, furnace brazed converter elements, needle roller bearings". I know the Torque on the 555 starts really coming on at 1,800 rpms on the dyno.
Do you think I should bite the bullet and go with the Vanco Power Brake system, basically a Hydroboost kit that will work with Full Hydro steering? http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/66.htm
I read a pretty good brake article on Pirate4x4 & it seems to work really good but not cheap. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/
Please let me know your thoughts!
Click to expand...

Have you done a chassis dyno? They can tell you where your torque converter is set on the dyno. If it's stall speed is too low, which I suspect it is for your power levels, you will not be able to hold it back with the brakes. You might get it working on the flat but start going down hill and the brakes won't hold it.

I would spend some time doing a bit of research and background work before I jumped into anything. There are also better calipers and pads.

Stephen knows a thing or two about the hydro boost and full hydro with good power. Ask him.
 
Heck my brakes barely hold mine in 4lo with my np208 and a 2500 hughes. I cant imagine with that motor in lo lo :eek1:
 
I finnally weighed the Blazer fully loaded with Fuel, Tools, Spare Tire & my Fat Butt and the Front is 3,570lbs, Rear is 2,790lbs & Total Wt is 6,500lbs even according to the scale that was used. Not a light Wt!:eek1: The Stazwork Double Beadlock Rims are very, very heavy then put 44" Pit Bull Rockers on and that is well over 1,000lbs.:whistle: Hell I weigh 325lbs naked, I guess go big or go home for me! Lol:screwy: Nothing light Wt on this thing!
 
Mine weighed in at 6550lbs without me in it. 100 lbs heavier on the front axle than the back. Can't imagine why I bent a front housing a while back.
 
My old Sonoma was 6200 trail ready and 1300 heavier on the front. 60/40 weight bias which IMO is about right for a trail rig.
 
But they tend to land nose first after getting air at speed. Balanced is why mine isn't a very good trail rig. But I have no complaints.
 
Yeah two totally different class of rigs. I like to try to go up big ledges and rocks. I tend to think comp rigs are more suited for a 50/50 for some of the wild cone dodging they do.
 
Raiderblaz said:
I finnally weighed the Blazer fully loaded with Fuel, Tools, Spare Tire & my Fat Butt and the Front is 3,570lbs, Rear is 2,790lbs & Total Wt is 6,500lbs even according to the scale that was used. Not a light Wt!:eek1: The Stazwork Double Beadlock Rims are very, very heavy then put 44" Pit Bull Rockers on and that is well over 1,000lbs.:whistle: Hell I weigh 325lbs naked, I guess go big or go home for me! Lol:screwy: Nothing light Wt on this thing!
Click to expand...

MNorby said:
My old Sonoma was 6200 trail ready and 1300 heavier on the front. 60/40 weight bias which IMO is about right for a trail rig.
Click to expand...

Sounds like I might be in the heavyweight club too!
 
Hopefully I'll be out of it now..... aiming for 4500 in the new rig.
 
So my Wt distribution should be ok for what the Blazer is? I moved the batteries and other things to the back. The Blazer was kinda built not to break easly with power and I knew it was not going to be light. The BBC, Great Lake Diff covers, Pinion Guards & all the Tubing & bracing kinda tells you how it was being built. It started out more of a Mud Truck not a Rock Crawler that would take me & my family to the moutains and to mud bogs, that is why I have a 650hp BBC. I had no idea how cool rock crawling is and when I found out the blazer went into that direction a bit with the Mud at its heart of the build. So it is kind of an all around Rig that I should be able to take anywhere. I just need to get it all fine tuned now and make sure everything is put together correctly so no dumb breaks happen because of mechanic instal errors, I understand breaks happen but it is frusterating when I found one of my big breaks could have been prevented if the install was done correctly.
 
Last edited:
Your up in my fatty class! :D I weighed in at 6500lb, ready to go. Other than the 2kids, wife, dog and the extra gear they bring. The cooler was full though. That was on the 39.5 iroks, and inner air locks. I'm sure With the H1's and 42's there is some more weight. I'm around 52%-48% to the front. Thats after I ditched the handy man jack, and just rely on Matt's or Steve's. Also I went through my tools and drooped 55lb of them. Went to a bag instead of box, took out any metric or standard that can interchange, and anything else I could live without. Also dropped some of my recovery crap that I've never used. Dumped anything I hadn't used in 5 years of wheeling! Before that I was right at 50-50.
Your weight should be fine, I agree with Matt, for a trail rig get front heavy. For something you're going to air out, 50-50.
 
I got the electric fan installed and also put the doors back on. I stripped off the Speed Liner on the doors and have them ready to paint today. Winter is almost here and I am going on the Woods Run at Moody Hill this weekend.:D It should be a good time and I hope to meet alot of people!

Electric Fan.jpg

Driver Door.jpg

Pass Door.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom