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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by AZK5, Oct 26, 2000.
Has anyone done business with Scott at rockstomper.com? They make 1.5" diameter tie rods for $75.
I have talked to him many times on this board, the Pirate board and on the Off-Road mailing list. He is a very nice guy and takes the time to answer all your questions. I have not done business with him yet, but I will be as soon as I get my diffs done.
I will definately order from him, he seems like a great guy and is extremely knowledgeable!
See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -> http://emmett.coloradok5.com
I went to the page and saw the size. I then went to measure my new tie rod. I finished my cross over and used 1 1/8 D.O.M. tubing taped to 3/4-16 left hand on one end and right hand on the other so I could use hiem joints. I measured my tubing wall thickness and its .312 or 5/16. That is tuff. I paid $74 for 20 ft. of this tube!!! I made my tie rod and drag link with less than 10 ft. So now I have 10 ft left over to make a spare set. (you never know)
How much did the left hand tap cost? Rockstomper.com uses 7/8" thread like the big GM tie rod ends. Thanks for the input. The $75 includes jam nuts and shipping.
I recently purchased Scotts tie rod (rockstomper.com) and that thing is thick! I don't think you'll find a thicker tie rod. He charged $75 but it didn't include the tie rod ends. He's now making my crossover drag link which will have a 4" drop to clear the crossmember and the ends will be straight. For $75, you can't go wrong plus Scott's a good guy.
My left hand tap was $25 . I just like it this way because I have enough tube to make two sets. I'm sure they do a good job.
Are you saying that Scott sells the crossover drag link which will have a 4" drop to clear the crossmember. Do you mean with that draglink, we won't have to cut the crossmember or modify it with the crossover steering? Thanks
Have them on my truck. They are very strong I doubt you will ever break one they are about the thickness of a billyclub. Scott will thread them for whatever threads you have and if you want he will include the tierod ends. But It would be cheaper if you do.
That is correct Boss. The stock crossmember shouldn't have to be trimmed or modified. My mind started thinking the other day (I know it's scary) and I though a 4" drop in the drag link and it should work perfect for the crossover setup. Scotts tie rod cost the same as the GM tie rod I purchased from my dealer plus he cuts, taps, and bends it however you want it. With the 6" lift flexed, the angle in my drag link was causing the GM ends to fail. I'll let you know how this works out and take some pics.
Here's a pic again of the tie rod/drag link.
Left to right: Sleeved Rock Rod, stock Chevy tie rod, stock Ford tie rod. Note the quarter in the pic for size reference.
Cool, thanks Shawn,
Now I'm definately doing the crossover steering when I get the D60, now that I won't have to do anything to the crossmember, (since I will only have 5" lift). I'll be buggin you about this when the time comes!
Is the 4" drop draglink going to be braced? Do you have a picture/drawing of it? That's a lot of force for a bent drag link.
If you look at Steven Watson's Blazer at ORD he uses the 1 1/8 and he bent his tube like your saying. I just want the new cross member because it looks cleaner and takes out that huge factory piece.
I have no intentions of bracing the 1.5" dia. draglink. Scott of rockstomper.com has already done a similar drag link on a Bronco with no problems. Scott mentioned that there is no way to bend these unless they are forced on a tube bender press.
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