What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Burgler Proofing A Topless Blazer

4wheelin4Jesus

4wheelin4Jesus

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Posts
149
Reaction score
0
Location
north carolina
Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or advice on how to burgler proof your rig. In the summer, the top will be off 24-7. I was wondering what i could do to deter theft.
thanks,

I was looking more to keep from having my rig stolen. I am going to weld a locked consol for anything loose. As for the a kill switch, ive never used one. Does it go straight on the battery, or can you relocate it. Sorry for the lack of info above.
thanks
 
Last edited:
Shark with lazers, dummy!

Hard to do. Best way? No stereo, the club, and a kill switch.

Orrrrr.....























Automated robot napalm spiders with burglar sensitive seismic sensors and cheese-whiz dispensers...
 
Theft of the truck or the stuff in the truck?

To keep the truck from getting stolen use kill switches (1 or multiple). On my Jeep I use a Kryptonite cable wrapped around the seat bracket with a BIG Master Lock.

To help deter people from stealing the K5 I smash it on rocks. :D I also keep anything I don't want stolen locked up in the toolbox I built, in the console, and I take the stereo face plate off and hide it or take it with me.

Harley
 
i have a VIPER motion sencer alarm they dont even have to touch it to set it off. $180
 
Club or Auto lock.
Alarm.
Starter kill.
Ignition kill.
Fuel pump kill.
 
Normally the kill switch goes on the 12V feed to the distributor. If you have fuel injection, cutting power to the fuel pump also works (or do both). The switches can be located wherever you want them to be. Cutting off the battery requires a big switch which would be hard to locate discreetly.

These measures DETER theft, but don't PREVENT it. A mechanically inclined thief can wire the ignition or the pump directly if they have some time alone with the vehicle. In most cases, though, they will give up and move to an easier target, like an Escalade :D
 
With my TPI'd 71 I've got the ability,via a removable switch,to enable the VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) programming in the ECM.

I plug in my switch turn it to a pregrogrammed number and the VATS is enabled.Another turn of the switch and the VATS is disabled.

The eng will still crank over but it will never start.
 
5.13s and an ORD Doubler......


When you park, shift it into compound low and lock the levers in position so they can't be moved.

Any thief trying to make a getaway will be doing so at about 1.5MPH.....slow enough that you can walk right up to him with your favorite "street justice" implement (taser, baseball bat, 9mm) and say:

"Looks like you're about to have a bad day!!!"


:cool1:
 
Club or Auto lock.
Alarm.
Starter kill.
Ignition kill.
Fuel pump kill.
Click to expand...

Add thief kill to that list and it is complete!

Kill switches "inside" the locked console box will be an additional deterrent!

LE style shotgun mount...empty of course...that'll make 'em go "hmmmm".

Bryan
 
From Arizona, the truck theft capital of the world...

The steering wheel people Grant have a "No-wheel Security Ssytem". See the current Jeg's catalog, page 210. It costs $109.00.. For more details see the Grant web site.

This is an adapter that mounts between the steering wheel an the steering column. A key is inserted into the adapter, you move a lever, and the steering wheel comes completely off. A metal cap is then placed where the steering wheel went, the lever moved back and the key removed. You take the steering wheel with you (they sell a nice carry bag) or maybe it can be locked up in some sort of a heavy storage box welded to the floor with a Harley lock on it.

Hard to steal the truck without a steering wheel. And if the wheel is removed with the front wheels locked all the way to one side it makes towing a bit more difficult. Just for fun I plan on finding an old used steering wheel and modify it so it has a bracket which covers the ignition switch and attaches to the Grant cap and just spins when you try to turn it. Sort of keeps the crooks from even THINKING about trying to break into the Grant adapter. And its good for a laugh.

An alarm system will only work with the battery connected and the first thing the crooks do is disconnect the battery or punch a hole in it from below to drain it (they bring a spare battery along with them). With no battery power they then open the hood and disconnect the alarm wiring. So for an alarm to work you need a backup battery hidden somewhere and a pager to tell you that you truck is in the process of being stolen. Crooks search for the backup battery as soon as the alarm trips if they think nobody will notice the alarm for the few seconds it takes to find the backup battery. But by the time they find the backup battery the pager would have sounded so you can grab your .45

Once in and with the alarm disabled crooks then look for the kill switch. I am planning a homemade special kill circuit. This will be a toggle switch easy to find under the dash as a bait switch, plus a small 12 position rotary switch out of the way under the seat. I spin the rotary switch when leaving the truck. When starting I count a number of clicks for the rotary switch position to power a relay to power the ignition and fuel pump. If the ignition is turned on and the rotary switch is in any other position than the one start position, or if the bait toggle switch has been moved, a fuse blows in line with the relay. No ignition and no fuel. Thereafter the fuse has to be replaced for the system to start. Will get to this as time permits.

Anyway, a neighbor's truck had an alarm, Club, and TWO kill switches, parked in the carport 20 feet from the bedroom window. They heard the truck start and by the time they got to the front door it was was GONE, on the way to Nogales. Battery acid and the old battery were on the ground. Pieces of wire insulation were also found on the ground where the crooks made jumpers around the kill switch they couldn't immediatly find.

In short plan on RELENTLESS DETERMINATION to steal your ride.
 
One of the steering column collars will prevent a majority of theft. Easiest way to steal a GM with this type of column is to break the plastic section where the key is (opposite side though), the collars cover that section. Doesn't stop someone from hotwiring, but if the internal steering wheel lock works, they can't *drive* it until they get around that issue.
 
I like gregs idea :o


Greg72 said:
5.13s and an ORD Doubler......


When you park, shift it into compound low and lock the levers in position so they can't be moved.

Any thief trying to make a getaway will be doing so at about 1.5MPH.....slow enough that you can walk right up to him with your favorite "street justice" implement (taser, baseball bat, 9mm) and say:

"Looks like you're about to have a bad day!!!"


:cool1:
Click to expand...
 
German%20shepherd%20dog%20snarling.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom