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Carburetor Questions

***hyjack on***
ryoken have you ever took one of the remans appart to have a look see inside? I bought a reman and it ran like crap i took it apart to find NOTHING matched diff jets diff metering rods ext. I find alot of those in hillbilly rebuilt carbs as well. I have a sorce for my q-jet parts as well.
***hyjack off***

There are casting plugs at the bottom that often leak after the carb dip in cleaner. They drip right into the intake manifold and no matter how you adjust the carb it will idle high. This may or may not be the issue but something to consiter. I used to use JB weld to seal them up but have since found 5 minute epoxy works better and lasts longer. I have rebuilt tons of Q-jets but there are several tricks to rebuilding and tuneing them that I would never be able to explain correctly with out being there in person to show what i mean. Theres another thread on here somewhere that i tried to explain most of it.

good luck

Balzer
 
Ryoken, the it was really hesitant and pretty much ran like crap. Now it runs strong, but is actually more hesitant when I mash it. It will load up for a second, but once it takes off, it's a world of difference.
 
If I find a cheap edelbrock and decide to go with that setup, how would I go about changing my fuel lines so it runs off of one. Right now on the Q-jet, it has one going in the back and one going in the front. But I see that most holleys and edelbrocks only have one inlet.
 
nad said:
If I find a cheap edelbrock and decide to go with that setup, how would I go about changing my fuel lines so it runs off of one. Right now on the Q-jet, it has one going in the back and one going in the front. But I see that most holleys and edelbrocks only have one inlet.
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The Q-Jet has 2 fuel lines??? I've never seen or heard of that. There should be a metal fuel line on the front/passenger side of the carb, and the one on the back should go to the brake booster.

Assuming that that is indeed the case, I know my Edelbrock has the brake booster connection in the back, so you're good to go there. The fuel line is pretty easy. I just used a small pipe cutter and cut the fuel line right before it made the last bend and went into the carb. Then I connected some rubber fuel line to the metal line and ran it to the Edelbrock.

Oh yeah, I also added an inline fuel filter between the metal line and the carb. The Q-Jet has that filter that inside the carb, held in with the fuel line fitting, so you have to add an external filter when going with a different carb.
 
Yes. That is what I'm referring to. Thanks. Also is there any way I can still use my divorced choke setup with any other carb? Specifically an edelbrock.
 
nad said:
Yes. That is what I'm referring to. Thanks. Also is there any way I can still use my divorced choke setup with any other carb? Specifically an edelbrock.
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I've never dealt with a divorced choke, so I don't know. But again, setting up the electric choke on the Edelbrock is *really* easy.

Somebody may correct me, but you can probably tap into the 12vdc feed that goes to the HEI distributor, seeing as how it's switched on and off with the key. I can't imagine that the choke would pull enough power to cause a problem there. Plus it's right there behind the carb.

Again, someone can step in and correct me if this is wrong.
 
Hesitation, deiseling, and high idle.
Dude, yoor timing is advanced too far.
 
Well I do need to get a timing light and time it correctly. I had to advance it to make it stay running to begin with, but I never totally timed it correctly, so I'm sure that's part of the problem.

I will probably be buying an edelbrock carb tonight and hopefully by then someone will chime in with advice on what to do with the choke. Whether I should try to use the divorced choke or the electric choke, and how I should go about hooking it up.

Thanks guys for all your help and advice.
 
jonrpick said:
... you can probably tap into the 12vdc feed that goes to the HEI distributor, seeing as how it's switched on and off with the key. I can't imagine that the choke would pull enough power to cause a problem there. Plus it's right there behind the carb....
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I wouldn't tap in the feed to the ignition.
Shouldn't the choke get juice thru a temp sensor in the intake?
 
just my .02, but I'd get it timed correctly, and that rebuilt Q-jet tuned before I dropped 3-4 bills on a new carb.
 
original balzer said:
***hyjack on***
ryoken have you ever took one of the remans appart to have a look see inside? I bought a reman and it ran like crap i took it apart to find NOTHING matched diff jets diff metering rods ext. I find alot of those in hillbilly rebuilt carbs as well. I have a sorce for my q-jet parts as well.
***hyjack off***

Balzer
Click to expand...


Nope.. We've probably bought about 20 of these remans over the last 5 yrs.. Have yet a need to take one apart... Pretty quality piece from my observation...

Still a huge market in the marine world for Quadrabogs... Probably 1/2 my customers have em...
 
Did you figure out the high idle? The choke could be stuck, but it's easy enough to force open by hand over on the left hand side. It could also be a vacuum leak, which would also account for some of the hesitation. There could be a problem with the carb-manifold gasket or maybe a vacuum line left unplugged. Apart from that, make sure nothing is physically blocking the linkage from closing - like the cruise control or a trapped vacuum line. If it's sitting on the idle speed screw already, just adjust it further out.
 
Well my buddy's dad knows how to tune a carb and properly time it, so I'm going over to his house later so he can help me out with it. Hopefully we get it all worked out.
 
Set your timing first. If your timing is off, then any tuning that you do to the carb will have to be re-done once its timed properly. What you want right now is to get it to a baseline state of tune. It will run, and probably run fine with everything set to the original specs.
After you've got it all in the ballpark, then you can tweak the timing, and carb, to get the fine-tune that works best for your particular engine.
Set it all to spec, and then tinker with it a little at time from there. Only adjust one thing at a time.
Depending on how much patience you have, it can be fun, or a total PITA.
 
Well I'm obviously impatient with this kind of stuff because it seems like no matter what I try doing, I dig myself deeper into a rut. The truck runs now, but it burns about a half tank in a 4 mile drive, and smells really rich. It's also hesitant and idles really high.
 
like you said. take it to your friends dad if he knows what he's doing. then no more talky and it will be all worky :waytogo:
 
Yeah, hopefully. I just wish more CK5ers lived around here so they could guide me and help me out with this stuff. My truck would be much cooler if I had someone to guide me on what to do. I'm not completely clueless, I'm just more afraid I'll mess something up.
 
nad said:
Yeah, hopefully. I just wish more CK5ers lived around here so they could guide me and help me out with this stuff. My truck would be much cooler if I had someone to guide me on what to do. I'm not completely clueless, I'm just more afraid I'll mess something up.
Click to expand...
as long as there's no fires then probably not
 
I'm talking about working on the truck in general. Body work, suspension, axle swaps, etc. Most of my buddies are just as handy as I am when it comes to vehicles, wish someone knew more than me that could help me out, without having to pay shops to do the work for me ;)
 
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