CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Check my head gaskets...what does this mean??

broncoman6524

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Posts
2,469
Reaction score
2
Location
chuluota Fl
When I pulled it all apart, I noticed this was happening... On both head gaskets, same spot on all 4 corners??

They're part number 1010, I'm going to be using 1003's this time. (Machinist suggested)
This is on a 383, with a 4.030 bore, aluminum 64cc heads, 9.6 approx compression ratio, on 93 octane gas.

Detonation??

001.jpg


I'm lost...
 
aluminum heads,,,,machined recently? new ?

aluminum is soft....If there is an imprint/indentation in the head sealing area,, the heads may need surfacing...I would think detonation would break chunks out of the sealing ring from the piston side first....looks like it wasn't sealing real good and the gasket failed..

just my .02
 
aluminum heads,,,,machined recently? new ?

aluminum is soft....If there is an imprint/indentation in the head sealing area,, the heads may need surfacing...I would think detonation would break chunks out of the sealing ring from the piston side first....looks like it wasn't sealing real good and the gasket failed..

just my .02


They were brand new 1500 miles ago. I'll have to check the head mating surface tomorrow.
 
Those are actually the gaskets you should be using with aluminum heads. The Fel-Pro 1010 WILL NOT brinnel the heads. These are the same gaskets i have on my aluminum headed engine. Did you do a retorque after the engine was ran and then COMPLETELY cooled down? Also what fasteners are you using with the heads? Where they brand new? What did you torque them to?

EDIT: I just checked the specs between a Fel-Pro 1003 and a Fel-Pro 1010 and they are the same gasket with the exception of the compressed thickness being .039" for the 1010 and .041" for the 1003. You want to keep the quench area as close to .040" as possible so make sure of what your piston deck height is and then choose the gasket that will bring the quench the closest to .040".
 
I did not re-torque after the first run :-( I was unaware of that requirement.

I used new head-bolts, I bought from autozone I believe they were fel-pro brand. I torqued them at 65 ft/lbs. I "two step" torqued them, I think I did 40 before the 65.

I'll have to do some research on the quench height, I don't know how to measure that.
 
You MUST have hardened head bolt washers on the head bolts when using aluminum heads. I highly doubt the factory head bolts came with any. I would suggest you use ARP bolts this time around and be done with it, they come with the washers.

I have not retorqued my heads either BUT i did use ARP bolts. It is a HUGE pain to retorque since you have to remove the headers and sometimes other items in order to get at all the head bolts. MOST times when using a QUALITY fastener you can forego the retorque.
 
Yeah, when I bought a pair of edelbrock aluminum heads, it specifically said in the instructions to use head bolts with hardened washers.
 
Might be a stupid question...

But would it really hurt to re-use my current bolts, and just buy the ARP hardened washers??
 
Interesting, never seen a head gasket do that. I don't know about Chevy's, but every BMW or VW I have done has stretch bolts and MUST be replaced. Unless you do ARP bolts/studs.
 
Might be a stupid question...

But would it really hurt to re-use my current bolts, and just buy the ARP hardened washers??

You "might" be able to get away with it by why take a chance? Just buy the quality fastener and be done with it. I don't know how people say they can't afford something but seem to find the money to do it a second time. :crazy:
 
You "might" be able to get away with it by why take a chance? Just buy the quality fastener and be done with it. I don't know how people say they can't afford something but seem to find the money to do it a second time. :crazy:


Live my life by that... haha


I just saw you could buy the washers seperate, and started thinkin.
 
Yeah but the washer needs to FIT the bolt properly. Since stock head bolts did not use a washer i doubt they will fit correctly.
 
Might be a stupid question...

But would it really hurt to re-use my current bolts, and just buy the ARP hardened washers??


The ARP washers are made for the shoulder on the ARP bolts...notice the beveled inner diameter of the washer. It mates with the underside of the bolt head.

ARP-HEAD-BOLTS.JPG


And they should be lubricated upon installation. You'll see all that in the instructions that come with them.
 
Top Bottom