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cleaning flaking paint and repainting a engine???'s

brans87

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So got the wife's engine pulled from her 67 C10 (79 350) and gotta replace timing cover. Well I noticed the paint I used a while back was lifting up and could pull it right off in some spots.

So curious How to clean it Right/Prep it to repaint and get it to freaking stick this time. I was using VHT engine paint.

So thoughts on how to clean it all up while out and to prep correctly so I do not have this again?

There a certain Chevy Orange I need to use?

Do not mind spending $ if it will be right!!!!
 
Whatever GM used was pretty tough paint---don't know what they used though...
Years ago engine rebuilding and hot rodding books showed a special paint made by GE called "Glyptal" that they used to paint the lifter galley,supposedly it helped the oil drain back into the crankcase faster--that stuff must be pretty good to not come off under those conditions...
Don't know if its still sold,or comes in different colors..

I have "painted" most of my engines while they were out--I never was too anal nor was I doing a show quality restoration,I just didn't want a rusty engine to go along with the rusty truck...

I used everything from regular Rustoleum to cheap Walmart spray cans of orange paint,and they all seemed about the same to me..
My prep job wasnt the greatest,all I did was blast off "most" of the grunge with a car wash high pressure hose and some GUNK or diesel,and maybe a blast of brake cleaner on the heaviest deposits..none were 100% "clean" really..

I'm not sure what temperature IMRON is rated for,but if it'll take 250 degrees,that stuff is hard to beat--very expensive though,and the hardener it requires is too..
 
I've been reasonably happy with the duplicolor hi heat engine paint. You do need to remove any grease, oil, flaking old paint but you need to do that no matter what paint you use. Any paint will flame right off if there's anything but good metal underneath. The VHT is probably just as good. None of the spray can stuff will hold up to heavy duty engine cleaner, brake cleaner, or carb cleaner very long either.
 
Any of the engine enamel sold at the parts stores will net you good results. If you properly clean the engine before hand.
Use a good cleaner like denatured alcohol or the like, followed by a good was and grease remover, and tack it off. A good prep is where it's all at.
I even went at far to clear one engine with some spray clear. That is still holding up well.

Bob, you can still buy glyptal paint if you so chose. But unless your building an engine that's noted for poor oiling design, I wouldn't bother with it. I have done it on a few engines I have done in the past, but I won't be using it anytime in the future.
 
I just mentioned that Glyptal stuff because if it'll "live" inside an engine,it should have no problem clinging to the outside of the block too..

I never liked the idea of ANY paint inside an engine--I'm betting practically zero engines ever failed due to "slow oil drainback"...some of the "hot rod" stuff in books & magazines I think is recommended only for the profit of the manufacturer,and the author gets a kickback for suggesting its "needed"...not so much a "must have"..

I'd be willing to bet more engines failed from the paint coming off, and ending up in the oil pump and bearing passages,than the paint "helped"....:thinking:

I also have used oven cleaner at the car wash to blast the engine blocks clean before I painted them--its cheap and works quite well--like I said,I was not too concerned with show quality looks,I just wanted paint on it so it wouldn't rust--and everyone would know its a Chevy when they see an orange engine..

I'll admit I was unhappy the first time I used carb cleaner on a engine with a dirty carb that I had painted not long before,maybe 2-3 months--and it wrinkled up the paint like cottage cheese..I kind of hate painting,body work,it takes so much time and effort,and it can be ruined in a matter of seconds..I do not have the patience to make things pretty,I just want them to work--function over form suits me fine,good looks are optional..(unless we're talking about women! :eek:)..
 
With any paint, prep is key. Obviously thoroughly clean the engine and I like to use high temp etching primers any time when painting metal. Good prep will promote adhesion and prevent flaking, but the ultimate strength of the paint is going to be a factor in how long it lasts.
 
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