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Clocking tcase and keeping support brace
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
That's it. the rod is there to keep the trans, transfer and especially the ADAPTER from breaking. Some of the factory adapters are pretty weak. Might not be such a big deal on a stock truck, but on a lifted truck with more driveshaft movement, the transfer is getting tugged on, and shoved forward and back. That bar locks everything in place so that it would have to strech, or the part of the housing it's attatched to would have to snap off before the tranny and transfer take the beating.
Also, DO NOT mount that part of the transfrcase to ANYWHERE that is not supported by the motor mounts or tranny mount. THe motor/trans/transfer need to be able to move together as an assembly. When you rev the motor, the motor mounts will squish on one side and pull on the other. The tranny mount is in the center on purpose. All it is supposed to do is support the weight, not control torque. If you brace the side of the transfer using another mount, you lock down the back of the drivetrain so it can't twist anymore. That may sound like a good idea, but your trans, adapter, transfer are now submitted to all the torque from the drivetrain, and all the outside torque being placed on the drivetrain.
joshua1086
Registered Member
Bringing back an old thread need help to mount my 241???
Ok So i really like what you said make since but question is what takes the torque load? Is it just the engine mounts and the transfer mount is just for weight?
Seems like the torque from the front shaft woudl have alot of leverage So is the 6 bolts and the aluminum case enough to hold all of the torque?
Lastly on the atlas they have the tail housing support ring, would that be a bad idea on a 241? I know it doesnt weigh much but a hard hit plus the tourqe load seems like alot of pressure on the tail housing of the transmisison?
ANy help would be greatly appriciated!!!
Josh
Ok So i really like what you said make since but question is what takes the torque load? Is it just the engine mounts and the transfer mount is just for weight?
Seems like the torque from the front shaft woudl have alot of leverage So is the 6 bolts and the aluminum case enough to hold all of the torque?
Lastly on the atlas they have the tail housing support ring, would that be a bad idea on a 241? I know it doesnt weigh much but a hard hit plus the tourqe load seems like alot of pressure on the tail housing of the transmisison?
ANy help would be greatly appriciated!!!
Josh
jimmy88
1/2 ton status
Finally got everything installed. Basically I used the stock rod and made a plate that keeps it close to the stock location. Because of the direction of force I think the plate will be fine as is. A tab could be added to the case bolt and welded to the plate for extra support if necessary (see the picture from the rear of the tcase).
Is that the original rod that the plate bolts too?
jimmy88
1/2 ton status
Yep
Slick! 
wayne
3/4 ton status
Looks good Jim. I couldn't do something like that with mine because the exhaust. I'm planning to wheel again next weekend and after that I plan to make some changes.
mine has a tab on the clock ring which is tired into the seat bar which ties into my boatsides.then have the factor mount with a skid.works well.5 runs lots of broken tcases but no adapters and yes iim not easy on it
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Just thought that I would throw this in. I just clocked my 208 and I just moved the brace to a higher up bolt hole on the bell housing with no mods at all.
doonjumper
1/2 ton status
Would a boxed frame eliminate or at least greatly reduce this threads main concern?
I don't see how that would keep you from braking adapters or t-cases.
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
BTW: I got my wonderful clocking ring and hardward from those great people up there at www.diy4x.com!
I agree that's a great idea, but I too would have exhaust clearance problems.
And that is why I will run a single side exhaust to rid myself of that problem.
wayne
3/4 ton status
I had a single exhaust with a crossover untill the crossover started getting flattened on rocks. I chose duals to make it easier to package everything and keep it high. Even with everything tucked up I still hit the mufflers sometimes.
true duals,3 inch pipe,flex pipe around the t case.1 year old no problems.shorty header on the pass side
mcinfantry
1/2 ton status
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i couldnt take my clocking ring leaking anymore. so i just re-drilled the adapter, and am adding the brace....
cummins 4bt/4l80e/nv241 clocked....
cummins 4bt/4l80e/nv241 clocked....
You have to be very meticulous about sealing the clocking ring. I found it works best to seal it around the inside and outside "ring" between the adapter and the ring. To be frank, I've pulled mine apart 3 or 4 times and every time it takes more than 1 attempt to seal it up. And it's always between the adapter and ring. However running a bead around the outer ring and inner ring seems to have been the most successful. The last time I pulled it apart I thought I could get away with only doing the outer ring where the bolt holes are, but no I had to pull it apart and do the inner ring too.
I wish I had a picture so I could better explain what I mean by "outer" and "inner" rings.
I wish I had a picture so I could better explain what I mean by "outer" and "inner" rings.
