What did you end up doing?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Cold starting a balky diesel...
- Thread starter diesel4me
- Start date
I pulled the injector and extracted the intact stem using needle nose pliers.
I plan on never using 13G plugs again.
The 60G plugs were courteous enough to disintegrate instead of swelling.
The one dead one that refuses to come out on my 6.2 is in there for good--the tip has to be bent at 90 degrees or swelled up so large it will have to break off before it would ever come out..
I have unscrewed it,chucked it in a drill,and run the drill in reverse a good 5 minutes,no dice--it comes out about 1/2",that is it,then you can feel the tip being too large to come thru the hole in the head..
I have even unscrewed it,started the engine,and driven the truck 50 miles and it never blew out!..some puffs of compression leaked by it for a few seconds after it started,then it sealed itself up and the engine ran normally the entire trip..
I tried one more time to extract it after that ride while the engine was still hot,but it just isn't going to come out..I screwed it back in and said ***k it!..
I think those tools only succeed in breaking the tips off if they are really "stuck"..
A set of 8 60G's around here is more like $80-$90 at parts stores,and I don't have the money for them now--I'm cancelling my cable tv today because I'm not going to hand over $89 to watch the same shitty programs and repeats and stupid commercials ,it is just a ripoff--I'm going next door to the Comcast store to the AAA office and subscribe to AAA with the money I'd have paid for cable,so I can at least get my junk towed home when it dies on me instead..
If I didn't have to blow $1200 on property taxes and nearly $200 on house insurance ,I'd have the money to buy a new set of glow plugs,a spring hanger,and fuel tank & sending unit..but I don't--and I'm not exactly thrilled about blowing $400 more on those parts that I cant install till after winter ends,when I cant really use the truck and trust it in the meantime..
I'm going to try the hair drier or torch trick if the truck refuses to fire up today--its 10 degrees out now,but is expected to hit the 40's around noon--hopefully it'll start then without any grief..
I have unscrewed it,chucked it in a drill,and run the drill in reverse a good 5 minutes,no dice--it comes out about 1/2",that is it,then you can feel the tip being too large to come thru the hole in the head..
I have even unscrewed it,started the engine,and driven the truck 50 miles and it never blew out!..some puffs of compression leaked by it for a few seconds after it started,then it sealed itself up and the engine ran normally the entire trip..
I tried one more time to extract it after that ride while the engine was still hot,but it just isn't going to come out..I screwed it back in and said ***k it!..
I think those tools only succeed in breaking the tips off if they are really "stuck"..
A set of 8 60G's around here is more like $80-$90 at parts stores,and I don't have the money for them now--I'm cancelling my cable tv today because I'm not going to hand over $89 to watch the same shitty programs and repeats and stupid commercials ,it is just a ripoff--I'm going next door to the Comcast store to the AAA office and subscribe to AAA with the money I'd have paid for cable,so I can at least get my junk towed home when it dies on me instead..
If I didn't have to blow $1200 on property taxes and nearly $200 on house insurance ,I'd have the money to buy a new set of glow plugs,a spring hanger,and fuel tank & sending unit..but I don't--and I'm not exactly thrilled about blowing $400 more on those parts that I cant install till after winter ends,when I cant really use the truck and trust it in the meantime..
I'm going to try the hair drier or torch trick if the truck refuses to fire up today--its 10 degrees out now,but is expected to hit the 40's around noon--hopefully it'll start then without any grief..
Go to Amazon. Multiple vendors have 8 packs for around $60 with free shipping.
I just looked
I just looked
Last edited:
He doesn't do online payments.
He has to walk in and buy
And don't buy the 60g from Amazon, you will get something else.
I got twice 9g, finally gave up and got the Bosch
Ah I see. The only time I bought a set was probably 8 years ago for my m1009. I got those from an Ebay seller. I was surprised that they all came out with zero issues. Maybe the military knew what they were doing. I was the first civilian to own that truck
I've bought a full box of AC 60G's from Autozone in the past,and when I got home and went to install them--I noticed three out of the eight were not AC's,they were "Wellman" brand..they went right back in the boxes and I exchanged them for three AC's,this time I inspected them at the parts counter,they were skeptical I hadn't just switched them with some I had--till we found 3 other boxes of 8 that also had some Wellman's mixed in!..
I may soon be buying some stuff online,no one can get me a spring hanger for my pickup local,only 3 places online list them,and a new fuel tank will be $100 unless I ordered one online from Advance Auto,which will net me a 25% discount and free shipping ,right to my house if I want too,which would be convenient,since I hate driving anywhere with these 2 items being basically "dangerous"..
Had to go pay a few bills,and cancel the cable TV yesterday--it was about 35*F when I went to start the truck,and it fired up fairly quickly for a change..but it also leaked another gallon or more of fuel out of the tank into a catch pan,and with no working fuel gauge,I was apprehensive it would run out of fuel --didn't want to dump the fuel that leaked out back in it,or buy more,and have to dispose of it either..
Best I could estimate was it still had about a half a tank left judging by the amount I've caught in the pail that leaked out since last week..
I may soon be buying some stuff online,no one can get me a spring hanger for my pickup local,only 3 places online list them,and a new fuel tank will be $100 unless I ordered one online from Advance Auto,which will net me a 25% discount and free shipping ,right to my house if I want too,which would be convenient,since I hate driving anywhere with these 2 items being basically "dangerous"..
Had to go pay a few bills,and cancel the cable TV yesterday--it was about 35*F when I went to start the truck,and it fired up fairly quickly for a change..but it also leaked another gallon or more of fuel out of the tank into a catch pan,and with no working fuel gauge,I was apprehensive it would run out of fuel --didn't want to dump the fuel that leaked out back in it,or buy more,and have to dispose of it either..
Best I could estimate was it still had about a half a tank left judging by the amount I've caught in the pail that leaked out since last week..
You know, as much as you haunt flea markets and garage sales, I'm amazed you have not come across a Salamander or two. One of those with either propane or kerosene aimed at the truck engine or radiator should solve your cold start problems fairly cheaply.
Heck, if you don't need a big one, this one is $102 from WalMart brand new and uses propane.
Heck, if you don't need a big one, this one is $102 from WalMart brand new and uses propane.
I have two of them..a 55,000 BTU "Reddy Heater" and a huge 110,000 BTU one .
The 110,000 BTU one, I cant get to stay lit after it runs a few minutes--it starts poofing out,and throwing dense white smoke--I think the ignitor coil is failing..the smaller heater worked fine last time I used it 2-3 years ago,but it may have a fuel tank leak now..
One big problem using one of them to heat up the old 6.2..
It has a rotted oil pan,and I tried brazing up the leaks--this only made bigger holes,so I screwed in a 1/4" bolt..that stripped..so I tried a 5/16--same deal--then a 3/8"--it now has two 7/16" flywheel bolts in the holes ,that have thin wide heads,and the pan was too thin to be able to braze them on--these were smothered with a thick layer of tiger hair type fiberglass body filler that is waterproof,then a few other areas needed some RTV black smeared over them to plug the weeping area..its held for 3 years now,only drips a little..but those heaters would ignite the bondo and then I won't have to worry about it EVER starting again....
The 110,000 BTU one, I cant get to stay lit after it runs a few minutes--it starts poofing out,and throwing dense white smoke--I think the ignitor coil is failing..the smaller heater worked fine last time I used it 2-3 years ago,but it may have a fuel tank leak now..
One big problem using one of them to heat up the old 6.2..
It has a rotted oil pan,and I tried brazing up the leaks--this only made bigger holes,so I screwed in a 1/4" bolt..that stripped..so I tried a 5/16--same deal--then a 3/8"--it now has two 7/16" flywheel bolts in the holes ,that have thin wide heads,and the pan was too thin to be able to braze them on--these were smothered with a thick layer of tiger hair type fiberglass body filler that is waterproof,then a few other areas needed some RTV black smeared over them to plug the weeping area..its held for 3 years now,only drips a little..but those heaters would ignite the bondo and then I won't have to worry about it EVER starting again..
..
If you are talking about a front spring hanger for the rear suspension on your truck, think twice before using LMC. I bought a pair for my Apache project with a 87 C10 chassis under it. They were terribly made. I got my money back and LMC didn't want the hangers back so I threw them in the trash
I've been warned by some other guys I know to watch out for LMC's stuff,much of it is china crap..(but right now even a wimpy new hanger would be safer than what's left holding mine together!)..
These 2 other places stock the hangers,one claims they are "made in USA" ...
Chevy Front Of Rear Leaf Spring Hanger, fits 2-1/2" Wide Leaf Spring
CTH733 Front of Rear Leaf Spring Hanger | 1973-1987 Chevy/GMC
These 2 other places stock the hangers,one claims they are "made in USA" ...
Chevy Front Of Rear Leaf Spring Hanger, fits 2-1/2" Wide Leaf Spring
CTH733 Front of Rear Leaf Spring Hanger | 1973-1987 Chevy/GMC
Unfortunately, working from a distant computer, I don't have any kind of a feel for where the truck is or its surroundings. However, I'm guessing that it cranks fairly well in 60 degree weather.
While it would be neat to use a heater to get the block up to 120+ degrees, I meant to just warm things up to a spring day or so. If there is any kind of enclosure or even a windbreak around the truck, I would aim the heater at the front of the truck. Keeping it far enough back so as to not melt the front grill and let it warm the radiator and the front part of the engine up to about 60-70 degrees.
I figure having the water in the block up to that temp should let it crank fine. And would have the additional advantage of a clear windshield and a warm cab.
I have seen and heard examples of your ingenuity, so I figure it would be simple for you to come up with some kind of temporary cover or shroud that would block the wind and funnel the heat into the front of the truck.
While cardboard would work, and be safe as long as its kept well back from the heat source, thin plywood like comes on packing crates or something like that might be better.
You could either build it semipermanently as a kind of one truck half garage you would pull the nose into, or something that could be lifted out of the way once its cranked.
Depending on the weather, it might have to run for 3 or 4 hours to get the job done, but most of those heaters are fairly efficient and would do the job on a gallon or so of kero.
Of course, remember, I'm in FL., so really cold weather is not my field of expertise. Even though I am in NW Fl. where it hit 22 yesterday.
While it would be neat to use a heater to get the block up to 120+ degrees, I meant to just warm things up to a spring day or so. If there is any kind of enclosure or even a windbreak around the truck, I would aim the heater at the front of the truck. Keeping it far enough back so as to not melt the front grill and let it warm the radiator and the front part of the engine up to about 60-70 degrees.
I figure having the water in the block up to that temp should let it crank fine. And would have the additional advantage of a clear windshield and a warm cab.
I have seen and heard examples of your ingenuity, so I figure it would be simple for you to come up with some kind of temporary cover or shroud that would block the wind and funnel the heat into the front of the truck.
While cardboard would work, and be safe as long as its kept well back from the heat source, thin plywood like comes on packing crates or something like that might be better.
You could either build it semipermanently as a kind of one truck half garage you would pull the nose into, or something that could be lifted out of the way once its cranked.
Depending on the weather, it might have to run for 3 or 4 hours to get the job done, but most of those heaters are fairly efficient and would do the job on a gallon or so of kero.
Of course, remember, I'm in FL., so really cold weather is not my field of expertise. Even though I am in NW Fl. where it hit 22 yesterday.
I did use the 55,000 BTU heater once to get it to start years ago,when we had some rare below zero days--I just laid a blue tarp over the fenders and front end,and shoved the heater as far under it as I could,it took only about 15 minutes to get it warmed up enough to finally fire up..I hadn't even tried to start it before putting the heater under the truck,I knew it'd be a lost cause...saved the batteries for when it was "warmed up"...(to about 32* maybe!)..
I still think heating up the intake and incoming air would work the best after watching some of the videos...I have not yet taken the HF weed torch out of the box or tried using it yet...bought it to burn weeds in front of the house,instead of fighting with a weed whacker ,those things start harder than my dam diesel!..but it may end up being used to heat up the 6.2 instead...
I need to invent a quick release air cleaner lid--it requires a wrench and two nuts to be taken off each time I have to remove it--the cheap plastic wing nuts busted into pieces long ago,and I have yet to find any metric ones locally like them made of metal..
I still think heating up the intake and incoming air would work the best after watching some of the videos...I have not yet taken the HF weed torch out of the box or tried using it yet...bought it to burn weeds in front of the house,instead of fighting with a weed whacker ,those things start harder than my dam diesel!..but it may end up being used to heat up the 6.2 instead...
I need to invent a quick release air cleaner lid--it requires a wrench and two nuts to be taken off each time I have to remove it--the cheap plastic wing nuts busted into pieces long ago,and I have yet to find any metric ones locally like them made of metal..
