1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
Does it matter if I buy a 4x2 C20's axles (I plan to use both axles as they are 4.10 geared)? I have the k10 (4x4).
CK5
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Confused about axles.
- Thread starter 1985 K10 Warhawk
- Start date
You want to buy 2WD front axle assembly for your 4WD truck?
Or did I read that wrong?
To answer some of your original questions, the wheel width is not a problem on any of these axles. I'm running a 1997 van axle in my Suburban, and aside from moving the perches it was a bolt-in swap. I'm running a 1978 C20 14bff axle in my Blazer, and it was a direct bolt-in swap. I prefer the van axles (Type "B" in the 14bff bible), as the brake drums are removable (most 14bff axles place the brake drums behind the hubs, so hub disassembly is required to service the brakes 
). Moving the perches is not difficult. I found that choosing the later axle cut my purchasing cost in half, as my yard had lots more cargo vans than they had square-bodied rigs (*and* I got the removable drums, too 
).
Turning radius should increase with wider axles, but somehow my (wide-axle) Suburban can still turn noticeably tighter corners than my stock K10 can. I don't have a good comparison of before vs. after, but it wasn't a noticeable difference.
You shouldn't have to worry about the age of the axle if you are replacing the wearing parts. Seals & bearings will likely be the most worn components (more than the gears). Housing should last forever if it doesn't break outright (from abuse).
The only GM axle that I would specifically avoid is the 1/2-ton G80 (Gov-lock) axle. Those carriers like to fragment. But it sounds like that wasn't on your list anyway. The 14BFF is easy to work on, but heavy and it kills off some of your ground clearance. So it may or may not fit your purpose in that regard.
Are you replacing your front axle because you want different gearing? Or is there something else wrong with it?
). Moving the perches is not difficult. I found that choosing the later axle cut my purchasing cost in half, as my yard had lots more cargo vans than they had square-bodied rigs (*and* I got the removable drums, too ).Turning radius should increase with wider axles, but somehow my (wide-axle) Suburban can still turn noticeably tighter corners than my stock K10 can. I don't have a good comparison of before vs. after, but it wasn't a noticeable difference.
You shouldn't have to worry about the age of the axle if you are replacing the wearing parts. Seals & bearings will likely be the most worn components (more than the gears). Housing should last forever if it doesn't break outright (from abuse).
The only GM axle that I would specifically avoid is the 1/2-ton G80 (Gov-lock) axle. Those carriers like to fragment. But it sounds like that wasn't on your list anyway. The 14BFF is easy to work on, but heavy and it kills off some of your ground clearance. So it may or may not fit your purpose in that regard.
Are you replacing your front axle because you want different gearing? Or is there something else wrong with it?
1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
Nothing wrong with front.
I would just be re-gearing and wanted to swap to 8 lug if I was swapping the back to 8 lug (Whole new $$ problem as my current set up is 6x6.5) I don't really want wheel conversion spacers.
Unless I found a 3.73 rear. The C20 is sold any how. Starting to become a tad bit dismayed as all upullandpay yards nearby don't seem to have my 3/4 ton bolt in! Made the drive out to aurora only to find the 85 k20 they supposedly had from website to be non existent (wooo... they gave me free upullandpay entrance tickets)
CL has not been fruitful yet either.
I want to get back to wheeling!
I would just be re-gearing and wanted to swap to 8 lug if I was swapping the back to 8 lug (Whole new $$ problem as my current set up is 6x6.5) I don't really want wheel conversion spacers.
Unless I found a 3.73 rear. The C20 is sold any how. Starting to become a tad bit dismayed as all upullandpay yards nearby don't seem to have my 3/4 ton bolt in! Made the drive out to aurora only to find the 85 k20 they supposedly had from website to be non existent (wooo... they gave me free upullandpay entrance tickets)
CL has not been fruitful yet either.
I want to get back to wheeling!
Is there some reason that you don't wanna grab a 6-lug 14bsf and keep the wheels you have? Moving the perches should take you less than an hour. I found it a whole lot faster than waiting for the right square-body to come along. 3/4-ton Cargo vans are everywhere. Or, if you really want the full-floater, 1-ton vans are even easier to find (in my area, at least).
Whichever way you go, don't be dismayed. There are axles out there, and you'll be able to get back to wheeling just as soon as you find one.
I "think" the 2wd rear diffs have at least one shock mount that is different than 4x4's..
I like the 14 bolt SF axles for ease of brake repairs,the drum slides off like a 1/2 ton...a FF axle is beefier,but its more or a pain to get to the brakes...personally I haven't seen an SF axle break in street use,even hauling heavy loads,but I suppose anything is possible with huge tires & off roading..
I like the 14 bolt SF axles for ease of brake repairs,the drum slides off like a 1/2 ton...a FF axle is beefier,but its more or a pain to get to the brakes...personally I haven't seen an SF axle break in street use,even hauling heavy loads,but I suppose anything is possible with huge tires & off roading..
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That's why I promote the later van axles. Modern, FUNCTIONAL brake drums!
They're really nice, folks.
Agreed, don't discount the semi floater. It's plenty beefy for most applications, weighs less, and has much better ground clearance. It's disadvantages is there's not as much aftermarket support for it as the FF, and it isn't ultimately as strong as the FF. I've been very happy with mine, I'm not worried about breaking it.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
If youre rock crawling i wouldnt choose anything but a full float 14 bolt. Although SF is a very strong axle their big down side is what happens when they break. Ive wheeled with a 14sf...super strong but if it does break youll likely have a wheel laying next to your truck. Thats one of the big benefits of being full float, the axles are alleviated of the vehicles weight through using hubs. So even if you did brake a 14 bolt FF shaft you would still be able to roll around/get towed out/use FWD.
Also don't forget that a Detroit for a SF axle is significantly more than a FF.
1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
I do a tiny bit of rock crawling, mostly just trail riding. I'm new to the scene and just experimenting on what my truck can and can not do. This is where I damaged the rear dif (I hit the pumpkin on a rock here I believe)
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
The difference in price between SF and FF is pretty much 0 out here. Not sure about out there but its probably the same.
1985 K10 Warhawk
Registered Member
It seems that unless I go to bigger tires now, the loss of ground clearance might be detrimental with a larger pumpkin and only running 33s
You can always do a mild shave on the 14 bolt FF. Well worth it.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I know that feeling! yeah to get full use out of the ff its really 37s or higher, however they can be shaved down easily. Probably knock 1.5 off the thing easy
If you do the Barnes 4x4 cover, the mini-shave is cake walk.
I've got a 13 bolt cover on my FF. Wasn't much sealing surface left, 1/8-3/16". But it was worth it to shave that stump catcher.
I got caught on it once, and that was enough.
Summit lists the 9.5" @ 675 beans and the 10.5" @ 435 beans.
