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Continued Hesitation / Stumbling, with VIDEO

bp71k5 said:
Since you're motor is a stock TBI this may not work as well as the fitting Scott recommended, but I used a similar fitting that had a shraeder valve built in for a guage to screw onto. Then when you're done, you just unscrew the guage. The problem is that it doesn't replace the original fitting, it screws into it and makes the straight portion of you're return line longer which then may run into the coil or other stuff back there.

Mine is kinda like this one, but not as expensive. And I can use the guage for checking tire pressure. :)

http://www.toolsource.com/-p-95303.html
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You are taking about putting their adapter in line at the TBI unit, and their instructions show a picture at a fuel filter. Can the adapter be used at either place, or what? I'm confused.


On a side note, Scott has helped me come up with a plan for a removable gauge/hose setup that will connect to the adapter in his first post.

Thanks scott!
 
Thunder said:
You replaced the EGR but how about the EGR solenoid? Your code 32 still makes me think you have an EGR problem. When the solenoid go bad sometimes they put vaccum to the egr at idle and open it up. Which will screw things up. EGR should not have vacuum at idle.
Pull the vacuum line off the EGR. Plug the vac line and see if the idle gets better.
As for the MAP disconnect the electrical connection to it. That will throw the system into bypass mode. If things get better with the MAP disconnected you most likely found your problem.
try those 2 tests and post results.
Do the EGR test before you disconnect the MAP.
At least try these things, they are free, before you mess with getting the stuff to test the fuel pressure.
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You Sir, may have struck gold. I disconnected the EGR valve, and plugged the line going from the solenoid. (Crimp caps work great when you are out of golf tees :)). Started it up dead cold, no hesitation.

In this case, replacing the solenoid should do it, right? Or is more likely i have a solenoid wiring problem? I will trace what i can of the wires, but i don't remember them being very exposed. Any way to actually test the solenoid?

Thanks man!
 
Replacing the solenoid should fix it. Many times when they fail they stick open. Which opens up the EGR valve and makes the engine run bad at idle /low speed.
 
Thunder said:
Replacing the solenoid should fix it. Many times when they fail they stick open. Which opens up the EGR valve and makes the engine run bad at idle /low speed.
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Cooool. Hopefully is the model # that is $20 instead of $90. We'll see tmr.

Thanks man!
 
Yours should be the more expensive one. I looked it up on autozone and you can buy it from there for $55.00. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...oid&store=3368&searchText=&brandName=Duralast

I would recommend you pull yours and test it first before buying a new one. It's easy to test, with no power to the solenoid you should be able to pull a vacuum on the TBI side with a vacuum pump and once you power the solenoid then the vacuum should drop to nothing. If you cannot pull a vacuum without power to the solenoid then it is stuck open.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Yours should be the more expensive one. I looked it up on autozone and you can buy it from there for $55.00. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...oid&store=3368&searchText=&brandName=Duralast

I would recommend you pull yours and test it first before buying a new one. It's easy to test, with no power to the solenoid you should be able to pull a vacuum on the TBI side with a vacuum pump and once you power the solenoid then the vacuum should drop to nothing. If you cannot pull a vacuum without power to the solenoid then it is stuck open.
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Ok. When i looked it up at Kragen, there were various ones. Guess i just take it in and match it up tomorrow.

Couldn't I also test to see if the EGR hose is pulling a vacuum at idle? I don't have anything to test vac except my fingers and my hearing.
 
I had a buddy with a similar problem on a 454. We put a new distributor in it and ran it. After we got it running it would ran awesome after 1200 rpm. Anything lower and it would cut out and sputter until it would die. Turned out being the distributor electronic module being bad and it was brand new. Granted this was an emissions free carbed 454, but I wouldn't look past the simple stuff.
 
On our TBI trucks the EGR is electronically controlled (EGR solenoid) there is always vacuum to the "input" side of the EGR solenoid and once the ECM commands EGR then the EGR solenoid opens and allows the vacuum to go through the solenoid to the EGR valve. If you don't have a vacuum pump you can simply pull the EGR solenoid and either try to suck or blow through the vacuum fitting and if you can do either the solenoid is stuck open and needs to be replaced.
 
At idle, it was not open, but just above idle is when my problems arise.

I replaced the solenoid, and it seems to have fixed the problem. Too bad it was the $70 one :doah:.

Oh well, been battling this for a long time, thanks guys!

Thunder, you hit the jackpot!
 
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