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Convertible Conversion.... I've searched... believe me...

PhoenixZorn

PhoenixZorn

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I've been searching for pictures of 76-91 blazers that have been converted to full convertible, and all the pictures and links are broken. Can anyone please help a brotha out.. =) I need pictures, instructions, links to the least expensive softtops, and a place to get some tube in Wisconsin...

Thanks in advance guys..
 
you will need to reinforce the body because the full convertable blazers had extra support at the rockers. You will need the windsheild frame from a 73-74. Shoot me a PM i might have some of the things you need
 
Here it is with the cab and old windshield frame cut off.

1004cage_2.jpg


Here is the new '74 frame 'fit' on the old stubs. I used some thin wall round tube as pegs. Pounded them about 4" into the new upper frame and then wrangled them into the lower frame. This adds strength and helps align the new and the old.

1004cage_4.jpg


Side view as a full vert.

1004cage_3.jpg


Here is a before shot...

1004Moab_pic.jpg


Specialty top has a full convertable soft top. There is a review up on the product review section.

http://coloradok5.com/stcreview.shtml

HTH.

Rene
 
LOL, that's all I got! :blush:

I did have more but they went with the old computer...

If you use the 73-75 windsheild frame and cut your doors (like the 73-75 doors) you can run the factory full hardtop as well. You will need the upper and lower door caps though, but LMC has those. I intended to run a soft top, but haven't yet. I picked up a full hardtop at the same time i got the windshield frame.

The worst part of the job was re&re'ing the front glass. I highly recommend getting a mobile glass company to do that part for you.

Rene
 
why did you remove the glass from the 1st gen parts in the first place? wouldn't it have been easier to just leave it in there, or was that windshield toast?

j
 
Well, it's easiest to graft the upper half of the windshield frame to the lower half of the truck. To graft the entire frame with a windshield still in it is gonna be next to impossible IMO. You'd be welding down in the dash/firewall/cowl area and IMO would likely end up with a weaker windshield frame and possibly the wrong rake on the frame as well.

It's not that removing the glass is hard, once you've done it a couple of times. I pretty much had it all the way out before I cracked the one corner. :doah: Same with getting it back in, I almost had it all the way back in before I cracked the glass a second time.:haha: Now that i've done it once I am pretty sure I could do it without messing up the glass. It was time consuming, and i don't have all the tools for that particular job...or all the tricks you learn by doing it everyday.

Rene
 
ooooooh, ok. thanks for the clarification. I thought you grafted the whole damn thing on to yours.

Still not sure what I am gonna do with mine. I dont ever wanna run a hardtop or doors again, so thats not an issue. I wanna chop the top 3-4" behind the top of the windshield. Rest will be caged / bikini topped. Question is, will the windshield frame be strong enough... dont wanna break glass all the time.

j
 
If the truck is caged the windshield frame isn't gonna flex enough to break the glass. The windshield frame is a lot sturdier than you'd think. It's all multi-layers of steel and very thick compared to the body metal. My front down bars come within 1/4" of the windshield frame near the top, and even getting the truck all twisty the frame never hits the down bars.

My issue in your position is how to 'finish' the cut area of the roof/top of frame after you cut it. I cut my top off like that to begin with and it looks like a royal pain to fill that area nicely. Prolly more work to do that than to graft a new frame on.

Rene
 
Really?
man i though it would be easy to jsut fill the old frame in, Im only goign to run a soft top(already have it), do you have any pictures of the cut stock frame?
 
good point... not sure what I'll do there. Worse comes to worse, I could always cover it with something ghetto and have the Line-X guys spray over it. ;)

j
 
I don't have any pic's of the cut stock frame. Basically there is a ~1" gap that needs to be filled. The roof also has a curve to it, so if you wanted it to look even halfway decent it'd be a good bit of work. I know it's more for aesthetic's (sp?) but it is a part of the truck you'll be looking at often.

Rene
 
Well, since my website is down, I will explain it the best way I can.

I used a soft top from a 73-75 Blazer. I cut the roof about 4" behind the glass and straight across. I cut the doors at the same place (of course if you dont plan on runnin' doors, then all the better. The roof cut at the door jam sliced right off. I recommend using a 9" Sazall blade. There will be a big ass hole there which is easy to fill with some sheet metal and a little Bondo to smooth it out. I also replaced the rear gate with a pick-up tailgate. YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE A FULL CAGE TO TIE THE WINDSHIELD TO THE TUB OR IT WILL SAG!!! Mine sagged so bad that the doors would not close, plus I also had the 1" gap others have spoke of. So, after I jacked the tube up where it should be, I welded in a piece of 1" angle into the gap, and welded the other side to the roll cage bar that went across the windshield frame. I ground it all down, filled it with bondo and smoothed it out. If you looked up under the roll cage tube, you could barely see the gap. It was strong as hell. You will also need the roll cage to mount tabs for your seat belts.

I hope this helps, and maybe I can get my site back up so you can see the pics.


Rob
 
I guess I should explain why I'm doing this in the first place... I'm buying a full tub to replace my rusted out one, and while I have the thing on the ground, I figured I'd chop the top, build the cage in it, and paint it all to match the rest of the truck that I'm keeping on - I.E. the front clip. After the swap, I'll be keeping the doors and tailgate, and hopefully the cage will support a tight new soft top that will not only be removable in summer, but will seal up tight in winter...
 
tRustyK5 said:
I don't have any pic's of the cut stock frame. Basically there is a ~1" gap that needs to be filled. The roof also has a curve to it, so if you wanted it to look even halfway decent it'd be a good bit of work. I know it's more for aesthetic's (sp?) but it is a part of the truck you'll be looking at often.

Rene
Click to expand...

the 1st gen roof has a curve to it? What kind of work would someone have to do to make it look halfway decent? Can't really visalize it.
Thanks Rene.
 
quote:
Originally Posted by tRustyK5
I don't have any pic's of the cut stock frame. Basically there is a ~1" gap that needs to be filled. The roof also has a curve to it, so if you wanted it to look even halfway decent it'd be a good bit of work. I know it's more for aesthetic's (sp?) but it is a part of the truck you'll be looking at often.

Rene
Click to expand...

the 1st gen roof has a curve to it? What kind of work would someone have to do to make it look halfway decent? Can't really visalize it.
Thanks Rene.
Click to expand...

TTT for Rene to see...or anyone else that could help...
 
windshield frame?
Ahhh I thought you meant even after someone had the 1st gen windsheild frame on, the top would still not line up.

Sorry, my fault.
Thanks
 
Nope, once trhe 73-75 frame is grafted on and the doors are cut and the bedside is capped the factory top should bolt up just fine.


Rene
 
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