Crew cab frame question, Should I, or shouldn't I?

[rdn2blazer]

I pulled my old crew cab out of my sea container to make room in my garage. I putting the cab back in the sea container on a cart I built years ago and the frame is going to get cleaned really well, primered, shrink wrapped really well and tarped up and stored until I get to working on it again. My question is..., actually lets start by saying I would like to powder coat the frame. But I HATE when frame bracketry that is riveted on, is not removed so all surfaces can get coated.

Would it be a bad idea to completely remove ALL rivets in every single bracket and crossmembers so the frame is in individual pieces, have them powder coated, then reassemble them using grade 8 or 9 fasteners with thick washers and crimp locking nuts? I don't see why it would be a bad idea. I can see nuts loosening up IF they were regular nuts with say just lock washers, but cripm nuts hold strong. I could even use fine thread so they hold their torque better. What does the brotherhood think of this idea?

 

[kgblazerfive]

The only issue with powder coating is if you want to add something to the frame you cant fix the paint.

Replacing all the rivets is not a bad idea. It is a time consuming idea though.

 

[rdn2blazer]

The only issue with powder coating is if you want to add something to the frame you cant fix the paint.

Replacing all the rivets is not a bad idea. It is a time consuming idea though.

Thats always the main issue with PC. This truck will never be a off road rig, just a tow rig so it will be mostly stock with a lift and 35's.

 

[K85 Octane]

He's working on something!!! WOOT WOOT you go Rob!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

If you think you need something better than grade 8, in this situation, you'd be better off jumping up a bolt size.

In my opinion, it's pointless to jump to bigger bolts using the stock crossmembers as they aren't stiff enough to warrant it. If you gusseted the stock crossmembers and tied them into more of the frame, it would make sense.

As mentioned, if you're going to powdercoat parts, make sure you are sure of your plans.

 

[rdn2blazer]

If you think you need something better than grade 8, in this situation, you'd be better off jumping up a bolt size.

In my opinion, it's pointless to jump to bigger bolts using the stock crossmembers as they aren't stiff enough to warrant it. If you gusseted the stock crossmembers and tied them into more of the frame, it would make sense.

As mentioned, if you're going to powdercoat parts, make sure you are sure of your plans.

IF I do this I will do what I did with the shackle bucket swap to the DIY and other stuff I've removed, I used 1/2 brade 8 bolts. Rivets are 7/16 shank. When I drilled for the bigger bolts I used a 1/2, 6 flute, 82 deg counter sink. These are notmally about .010 oversized so I had the grind shop at the last machine shop I worked at grind it to .498 so it would be a really close fit over a 1/2 bolt. Almost like a slip fit pinned in location situation. I chamfered the holes to clear the radius under the bolt head so it didn't stress the bolt head and didn't allow it to seat flush.

And yes you are correct, the factory cross members are weak ass. So I will either stiffen them by gusseting or build myown. Probably replacing the engine CM with a ORD or DIY or Twisted Engineering or something. I still have no money to put into this or any other project right now, still trying to dig my way out of medical bills, just trying to do stuff with what I have thats just labor and work, without spending money right now. I'll just do what I can health permitting. Some days I get way to sick to do much still. But, I'm trying like hell.

I think boxing a CC frame is pointless. It would make for a stiff riding truck IMO, and since it's not a wheelin rig it would just be pointless really.