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Critique mah cage

8_YOUR_H2

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What does everyone think about the "Y" shape in the rear hoop? I am thinking about putting some more braces in the lower part that only has the vertical pieces in it. I don't know what to think yet.

I am also going to put in some gussets here and there.

Oh yeah, and the "X" across the halo, that is coming this week too. Any who I am a beginner so dont be to harsh.
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One more thing. Easy on the booger weld comments a few didn't turn out so well and I am already well aware of it.....:doah:
 
one thing i might have done differently (although it probably has no bearing on the strength of the cage) would've been changing the door bars to a more aestheticly pleasing X. other than that, looks decent. what does the bottom of the Y's in the rear hoop look like?
 
Looks good to me, of course I suck at welding also:D .
 
Here is how it attaches to the frame. We took two small pieces and ran them straight up through the floor and put a longer piece across the top. The vertical part of the "Y" comes down almost on top of the frame tie in


I agree on the door "X" but I need a large enough space to get my very fat ass into so I had to make the upper right hand piece perfrectly level...

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Didn't notice before, but I'm diggin the whole bench seat and tube vibe....
 
I am getting one of the sweet aztec print seat covers for it. :bow::pimp1:


I guess I got to this point and stopped it is not done yet.
 
I am considering this but man, that is a lot of fitting and notching. I guess I got wore out and quit with the "Y"

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cage work

If you're just playing, I wouldn't change anything, but if you know you're going to be on your roof, then I'd add some gussets to the corners. I also assume you're going to have some down bars to the rear.
 
ryan22re said:
Didn't notice before, but I'm diggin the whole bench seat and tube vibe....
Im the exact opposite. I think you are going to kill yourself in a roll if you keep it.
As for the Y's in the back, instead of completing the X's you just need the outer most braces, the ones that go to the center wont do much for strength.
Another thing is your door bar design. It leaves a huge hole for rock, trees, etc to get in there and stab the people. Add a bar about arm pit level and you will get my check mark:D
Also what size welder is that?? Looks like a 135amper or below. I wouldnt trust a cage welded with that welder running gas. If it was flux core no problem.
Last but not least cut the rest of that cab off, just looks ghetto to me;)

I dont mean to criticise your design that much but you asked for input:D

Your link setup does look nice though.
-Chris
 
As for the Y's in the back, instead of completing the X's you just need the outer most braces, the ones that go to the center wont do much for strength.
Another thing is your door bar design. It leaves a huge hole for rock, trees, etc to get in there and stab the people. Add a bar about arm pit level and you will get my check mark

what he said. looks good but not a fan of the door bars either. I like the fact thats its different.

keep the pics commin
 
I'd add some "kicker" bars that run from the rear portion of the top of the halo to the rearmost point that's solid. I'm sure it'll be fine but I'm a little O/C. I do agree on the door bar comments however.

I've been told by more than one tube buggy owner that the design I came up with for my truggy/buggy was "way overkill".
 
I am going to put an X in the middle lower box and tie it to the frame, I am leaving out the red side braces unless some one thinks it is a bad idea. The welder is a Lincoln 175HD 220V.

As for the door braces, I got to building them and realized I had to do something different or I wouldn't be able to get my enormous torso in the vehicle. The way it sits right now I look like an elefant getting into an yugo so the door braces have to stay the way they are. People will just have to get poked and/or crushed until Jenny Craig comes through for me.

I assume the whole kill myself in a roll comment is directed at me having the seat mounted to the tub and the frame to the cage? Give me some more input on this. I am not trying to sound like a dick when I say that either.

I still have the whole tube bed to make which will be tied into the frame and come off the rear hoop. There will be kickers coming off the top of the rear hoop and tie into the bed and the tube coming off the rear crossemeber. I am going to do a \ | / for the roof instead of an "X"


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I would add the red ones before any of the others.

Good to hear the welder is a 175.

The bench seat comment was more ment towards the fact that even with harness you are going to move around ALOT in a roll. Call up Summit and get some cheap plastic seats.

Eveything else sou nds good though:D
 
The whole thing is a bit strange and starting into the overkill and weighing to much.

It however does look good and I would only add the purple or green line in your last pic. You don't need both IMO. The Y design up top is so strong that you just need a bit of triangulation below to keep the lower section at the B hoop from racking.
PLEASE do something to the door bar area. You don't have to add more above the bars you have in there but you do need something to stabilize the diagnal bar that runs high on the B pillar to low on the A pillar. Try putting a tube from the base of the B pillar to the base of the A pillar.

Remeber strength is all about triangles. You just have open triangles in that area, close them up. Tubing size and dia. are not everything.
 
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