nychopshop
Registered Member
My 1989 K5 blazer loves to gulp air, water - not so much. This leads me to the logical conclusion that I need a snorkel. Here is what I've figured out so far:
I am going to need 3 main components other than tubing to complete my snorkel, the throttle body adapter (to replace the existing round air cleaner with an intake pipe), the air filter in a sealed housing, and the pre-cleaner at the tip of the pipe. I'll break down the 3 components that I have found and plan to use.
Pre-cleaner: I have found the ARB Safari snorkel air ram tip, but although it has provisions for extra water evacuation, I would fear driving through the thickest dust, rain and snow for long with a sealed air cleaner housing, so I have moved on to considering a tractor-style pre-cleaner such as the ones found here www.centriprecleaner.com Both of these types of pre-cleaners ideally use a 3" downpipe, so from there we'll continue on to the filter
Filter/housing: I need a waterproof filter housing that would allow me to use a 3" downpipe. I looked at the HMMWV air cleaner housing, and liked the military look, but I couldnt find one that wasnt beat to hell to begin with, making water-tight seem like a fantasy. I looked into the tractor market and found the FRAM CA-210-2PL and purchased one. Similar can be found on Ebay often - EXAMPLE - and with the inlet diameter at 3-7/8", I can easily find an adapter to mate with the 3" downpipe. It also comes with a mounting bracket, which is great for me. The main issue is the pipe that goes from the filter housing to the engine, as I will explain later.
Fuel Injector adapter: I saw many "cold air" kits on ebay at a good low price of under $50 shipped. These are all by and large 3-1/2" diameter intake pipes about a foot long with a large cone air filter that sucks air from inside the engine compartment. I looked at the airaid kits that cost $200 on average, and a representative directed me towards their stripped-down version, part number 200-700, which is just the adapter and filter (which I do not necessarily need). Here is a link to the airaid kit
All of the tubing I am going to be using is basically just one long trip to the exhaust shop to have mandrel bent pipe custom fitted to my needs affixed on the ends with reinforced silicone reducer couplings from Vibrant Silicone that is designed for turbocharged pressures, so for my normally aspirated application, they will be delightful overkill.
Here are the questions I have: The filter housing's mounting bracket doubles as the end of housing and adapter/reducer that goes to the engine. The diameter of the opening on the intake housing is 3-3/4", but when you bolt on the mounting bracket/reducer, the interior diameter of the pipe becomes about 2-1/2". I would suppose I would either have to fabricate a new mounting bracket and pipe to match the airaid part, cut the adapter portion out of the center of the mounting bracket and install a larger diameter pipe into the widened opening, or make due with the 2-1/2" diameter that the filter provides. I don't know what the ideal intake pipe diameter for our 350 c.i.d. gas V8s would be, but 2-1/2" seems a bit small to me. Anyone that's knowledgeable about such things, any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, although partially regurgitated from other posts in the message forum here, I am including a list of hyperlinks that I have found useful in the building options and parts I have been looking at:
ARB Safari Snorkel parts
ARB Safari Snorkel tractor-style precleaner. Pricey, but looks great.
A jeep snorkel build
A toy snorkel build
An excellent build with a great finish and detailed photos of the build (even if it is on a land cruiser
A military parts supplier that supposedly had NoS HMMWV intake boxes, but the customer service is bad and there is no way to instantly order anything.
Vibrant Silicone reducer couplings
Inexpensive cowl type intake
An entirely PVC snorkel, cheapo but looks effective.
In-fender intake ducting, could be great depending on your application.
Turn your round air cleaner into a cheap and surprisingly elegant setup for waterproofing.
An ARB complete snorkel kit installed on a suburban, not the cheapest way, but definately looks and works great.
Post any advice on snorkel building, any links to anything you have found useful, or any input on intake air velocity or piping diameter you may have. The water will fear us! Long live the K5!
I am going to need 3 main components other than tubing to complete my snorkel, the throttle body adapter (to replace the existing round air cleaner with an intake pipe), the air filter in a sealed housing, and the pre-cleaner at the tip of the pipe. I'll break down the 3 components that I have found and plan to use.
Pre-cleaner: I have found the ARB Safari snorkel air ram tip, but although it has provisions for extra water evacuation, I would fear driving through the thickest dust, rain and snow for long with a sealed air cleaner housing, so I have moved on to considering a tractor-style pre-cleaner such as the ones found here www.centriprecleaner.com Both of these types of pre-cleaners ideally use a 3" downpipe, so from there we'll continue on to the filter
Filter/housing: I need a waterproof filter housing that would allow me to use a 3" downpipe. I looked at the HMMWV air cleaner housing, and liked the military look, but I couldnt find one that wasnt beat to hell to begin with, making water-tight seem like a fantasy. I looked into the tractor market and found the FRAM CA-210-2PL and purchased one. Similar can be found on Ebay often - EXAMPLE - and with the inlet diameter at 3-7/8", I can easily find an adapter to mate with the 3" downpipe. It also comes with a mounting bracket, which is great for me. The main issue is the pipe that goes from the filter housing to the engine, as I will explain later.
Fuel Injector adapter: I saw many "cold air" kits on ebay at a good low price of under $50 shipped. These are all by and large 3-1/2" diameter intake pipes about a foot long with a large cone air filter that sucks air from inside the engine compartment. I looked at the airaid kits that cost $200 on average, and a representative directed me towards their stripped-down version, part number 200-700, which is just the adapter and filter (which I do not necessarily need). Here is a link to the airaid kit
All of the tubing I am going to be using is basically just one long trip to the exhaust shop to have mandrel bent pipe custom fitted to my needs affixed on the ends with reinforced silicone reducer couplings from Vibrant Silicone that is designed for turbocharged pressures, so for my normally aspirated application, they will be delightful overkill.
Here are the questions I have: The filter housing's mounting bracket doubles as the end of housing and adapter/reducer that goes to the engine. The diameter of the opening on the intake housing is 3-3/4", but when you bolt on the mounting bracket/reducer, the interior diameter of the pipe becomes about 2-1/2". I would suppose I would either have to fabricate a new mounting bracket and pipe to match the airaid part, cut the adapter portion out of the center of the mounting bracket and install a larger diameter pipe into the widened opening, or make due with the 2-1/2" diameter that the filter provides. I don't know what the ideal intake pipe diameter for our 350 c.i.d. gas V8s would be, but 2-1/2" seems a bit small to me. Anyone that's knowledgeable about such things, any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, although partially regurgitated from other posts in the message forum here, I am including a list of hyperlinks that I have found useful in the building options and parts I have been looking at:
ARB Safari Snorkel parts
ARB Safari Snorkel tractor-style precleaner. Pricey, but looks great.
A jeep snorkel build
A toy snorkel build
An excellent build with a great finish and detailed photos of the build (even if it is on a land cruiser
A military parts supplier that supposedly had NoS HMMWV intake boxes, but the customer service is bad and there is no way to instantly order anything.
Vibrant Silicone reducer couplings
Inexpensive cowl type intake
An entirely PVC snorkel, cheapo but looks effective.
In-fender intake ducting, could be great depending on your application.
Turn your round air cleaner into a cheap and surprisingly elegant setup for waterproofing.
An ARB complete snorkel kit installed on a suburban, not the cheapest way, but definately looks and works great.
Post any advice on snorkel building, any links to anything you have found useful, or any input on intake air velocity or piping diameter you may have. The water will fear us! Long live the K5!

anyways you can see it in this pic vaguely on the yellow one. the blue one is my dad's before relocating it

i think i may have to route mine inside the cab now....