What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Cv Shaft with lift

G

goochieman83

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 5, 2015
Posts
170
Reaction score
0
Location
Tampa, FL
Hello all, so my transfer case just blew on my k5 and while it is out I am going to go ahead and get a new cv shaft to keep from having further issues. I talked to a driveline shop today and they told me that if they built a cv shaft it would just cause more issues. The truck has roughly 6" of lift with a 208 t-case and 14 bolt rear. Anyone else running a cv shaft with a similar setup have any advice?
 
goochieman83 said:
Hello all, so my transfer case just blew on my k5 and while it is out I am going to go ahead and get a new cv shaft to keep from having further issues. I talked to a driveline shop today and they told me that if they built a cv shaft it would just cause more issues. The truck has roughly 6" of lift with a 208 t-case and 14 bolt rear. Anyone else running a cv shaft with a similar setup have any advice?
Click to expand...


Sounds like a shop of idiots. CV shafts are for higher angle operation (lifted trucks). I have the same set up/lift and i needed to go over to a cv shaft to get away from the common binding issues of a conventional two joint shaft.

Im still using a slip yoke and it works great. Try using a one of the big name driveshaft places, there often the same price as the others. I got mine from driveline service of sacramento but high angle driveline, tomwoods and dennys driveshafts are great places too.

Expect to pay about $550-600 for a one ton (1350) shaft. Mine was about $620 because i opted for .120" wall instead of .083" because i wheel in the rocks.

Measure from the pinion yoke (strap mounting surface) to the very end of the 208 shaft and from the yoke to the 208 tail housing shaft. Thats all you need for measurements.
 
Copy that, just had a long talk with Troy at Tom Woods and he said for a cv shaft with 1350 joints and a slip yoke would run around $450. He said for an SYE I could send in my tail housing and output shaft and they could make it for $750. Did you end up shimming the rear to get the correct angle for the double carden?
 
goochieman83 said:
Copy that, just had a long talk with Troy at Tom Woods and he said for a cv shaft with 1350 joints and a slip yoke would run around $450. He said for an SYE I could send in my tail housing and output shaft and they could make it for $750. Did you end up shimming the rear to get the correct angle for the double carden?
Click to expand...


Thats a good price. What they do is drill the end of the tail shaft and put a flange on it, which works great but a properly set up slip yoke is just as good. Unless youre 4 linked with crazy flex you shouldnt need a sye. Some people do it but im shackle flipped on 56's and at a minimum i have 4 inches of slip yoke engaged with the tail shaft.

I actually started with new perches to set my own pinion angle. You might be able to find a shim big enough to do the trick but its a big difference in angle. The pinion yoke needs to be almost parallel to the driveshaft (1-2 degrees under parallel). Getting the angle right is key to make the u joints last long and prevent vibration. My setup was 18 degrees. So if you can eye ball that change from what you have now youll see its a big difference.
 
I also have a rear shackle flip, just wanted to see what the best way to get the correct pinion angle would be. Now I guess I need to do some measuring. I know I don't want to go back to a one piece driveshaft, even if I did I would need some work done to the one I have or a new one all together. I feel like the cv shaft would be my best bet at this point.
 
goochieman83 said:
I also have a rear shackle flip, just wanted to see what the best way to get the correct pinion angle would be. Now I guess I need to do some measuring. I know I don't want to go back to a one piece driveshaft, even if I did I would need some work done to the one I have or a new one all together. I feel like the cv shaft would be my best bet at this point.
Click to expand...


Yes you are correct. Once you hit the 6 inch lift zone you really have to use a CV shaft if you want your tcase/diff bearings to last and length of time.

It may not be possible to make up that big of an angle distance but perches are cheap and i know rear end shops will burn new ones on pretty cheap, unless you have the capability.
 
1) Don't ever go to that driveline shop again

2) What shackle flip and springs are you using to get 6" of lift?

3) With my 56s, 6" shackle, 4" flip.....the pinion ended up pointing just under the T-case, which is perfect, no shimming. When load is applied, it tends to rotate up a little. So with a shackle flip installed, you wont need to shim much at all if any. If you are using tradition lift springs, cutting the spring perches and welding them with the correct angle is recommended over running a giant shim.

4) SYE isn't necessary but I did go that route for 2 reasons. If the driveshaft becomes damaged on the trail, I can pull it off without worry. And, I like my driveshaft to collapse during suspension movement. It's better then the shaft being forced into the T-case during every bump and side loading the tailshaft. I would say it's mandatory for a rig doing jumps or whoop sections. It just lessons the impact on the T-case.
 
The rear has the Diy4x shackle flip with 6" shackles. I am gonna go with the rear slip yoke and cv shaft. Gonna try to get the order in today. The rear pinion looks to be parallel with the ground which was my only concern with the shimming, or change of pinion angle to accommodate the cv shaft at the pinion side.
 
FWIW, the rear axle is also moved back about 2", effectively lengthening your driveline.

My best guess is about 5" of total lift in the rear w/the DIY flip, shackles, and factory springs.
 
Ah. Glad you jumped in, you can answer more questions than me, I'm just giving it an educated guess.
 
So technically is that enough lift to justify a cv shaft? I don't want to end up with another issue like this down the road, but at the same time don't want to just throw out $500 if it isn't necessary. Then again I can't think of what could have caused the issue in the first place besides incorrect angles = driveline vibration.
 
goochieman83 said:
So technically is that enough lift to justify a cv shaft? I don't want to end up with another issue like this down the road, but at the same time don't want to just throw out $500 if it isn't necessary. Then again I can't think of what could have caused the issue in the first place besides incorrect angles = driveline vibration.
Click to expand...

any amount of lift and a change in angles can require a CV shaft, and every truck is going to be different so I think that will play a large part. I don't think you can go wrong with a cv shaft though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom