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Daily Driver brake issue. Must fix quickly

Tattood08

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I did bench bleed the mc but once it was installed I didn't bleed it again just went to the wheels. How would I bleed it again after install?
 

Chickntrk

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You can bleed it again the same way you do on the bench, hook the tubes up to it but use the brake pedal instead of a dowel rod. This is almost exactly what happened to me, like I said got a new MC, brakes were okay, drove the truck some went to the floor again, found leak at MC got another MC, to the floor again finally got a good one and brakes have been great since.
 

Tattood08

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The mc didn't come with tubes just plugs. It does say to install and test pedal before hooking up lines, so it'll get a little more bench bleed. then it says to push the pedal and crack the lines one at a time until it's all fluid and no air. Then bleed the rest of the car.
 

Tattood08

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It's still not right. Got a good bench bleed and did it again with it installed. Before installing the lines the mc felt rock solid with the plugs in. Then I installed the lines and cracked the lines and pushed air out at the mc, then I bled the brake system. The brakes do work but the pedal still sinks too far. Feels good bleeding but sinks when you start the car.
 
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Wes Harden

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Sorry this reply is so late. Hook up the lines, snug them down, have helper pump pedal 3x and hold. open the front line, just crack it, wait for air and dribble, close. then 3 pumps on the pedal, then the back line, go back and forth between them till no air.

I use a Pig blanket https://www.newpig.com/absorbent-mats/c/100 under the to catch the fluid. Do the best you can blue towels, split a 2 liter bottle in half. It is still messy.
Hope you got working
 

Wes Harden

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How far from the carpet/firewall to underside of pedal ? you want 1.5" of pedal reserve. If you can stick your left toes under the pedal when applied your good. How does it feel on normal drive
 
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Tattood08

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Definitely can't get my toes under the pedal, it almost touches the floor. They seem to work ok at low speed in my neighborhood but I don't feel like I could panic stop. I have to bed those new pads still too so that is affecting feel a little. The front right caliper was wearing unevenly and that's why the pad separated, it must be sticking. Could that be bad and not leaking? It flexes a little like it's working when bleeding.
 
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Chickntrk

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Is your red brake light on? Are you sure your prop valve reset after the pedal went to the floor? I’ve had trucks I had to slam the pedal to get it to reset
 

Tattood08

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The brake light sets and resets all the time. If the prop valve was set wouldn't that lock out half of the system? I just drove it and did bed in stops for the new pads, it stops but the pedal goes too far and it doesn't feel like it stops hard enough.
 

Tattood08

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I'll have to test that in a minute. Rock Auto says they have it available so maybe I can replace it. I thought there was an issue with these parts though, just serviceability?

The dump valve did not push out the paperclip during the test. I was really hoping that was it so I had an answer.
 
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Tattood08

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I replaced the RWAL hydraulic unit today and I've bled the brakes til no end. It almost feels driveable just low pedal. I noticed bubbling in the m/c when you push the brakes. Only on the circuit closest to the booster. I can bleed all four wheels still and i can hear or feel the brakes actuate when the pedal is pressed.
 

Tattood08

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Only to get the mc started. Everything else has been installed on the truck for some time. Just been doing the manual buddy on the pedal system
 

Wes Harden

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You shouldn't have bubbles in this reservoir, makes me think there air either in the master cylinder, or possible sucking air at the fitting right at the MC.

Have you driving it with the new rwal module? get it to do an anti lock event and bleed the breaks again
 
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