Dana 60 front axel wheel studs ?????

[aj's tonka truck]

Please help, I am trying to replace the stock wheel studs which are 2 1/2 in long to a 3 in. long stud so I can run an alum. mag and have enough threads sticking out but can seem to find a dorman stud to work. I know that alot of you guys have done this but can't seem to find the right thread. On the 14 ff rear axel I used the dorman #610-194 which is 9/16-18 thread x 3-17/32 long and it seem to work but falls right through the hole on the dana 60 rotor & hub. I looked at the dorman # 610-303 which sounds like it would work but the knurl is too close to the head of the stud compared to the factory 610-283 and the rotor won't be held by the stud. What have you guys used for studs????? THANKS for the help.

 

[aj's tonka truck]

come on guys, I know there has to be several guys on this site that has dealt with this problem on their dana 60 swap into a k-5 and had to change out the studs to ba able to run a thicker aluminum mag wheels. I am at a stand still untill I can find out what stud to use.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A note on studs:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Basically when they list studs, they list the thread and pitch of the studs (i.e.: 9/16-18 or whatever), the length of the stud (which is the length of[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]the part the lug nuts thread on to), and diameter of the 'knurl', which is the splined part of the stud, and often the length of the knurl (called the[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]shoulder length).[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Dorman part # 610 - 283 is the part number for the STANDARD 1 ton Chevy, it fits 77-91 Chevy trucks. 9/16-18 thread, 2 17/32[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]long, .650 shoulder, 15/16 shoulder length.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Dorman part # 610 - 303 - fits 77-91 Chevy trucks. 9/16-18 thread, 3 inches long, .678 shoulder, 15/16 shoulder length. It is[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]identical in most measurements (including thread) to the 610-283, except that it is somewhat longer and has a knurl of .678. In actuality, the ones I measured never mic'd to more than .672.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]My friend Chad who did a DRW-SRW conversion reports:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"If you find that even Dorman 303 is too small, Bicknell Racing Products sells a wheel stud, part number BRP2059, which is 5/8 Course thread, 2.75[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]inches long, .685 shoulder with a .800 shoulder length. This stud was meant to be used in a hole drilled out to 43/64, which is the exact size of the[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]hole I used, so this is the stud I ended up using, and I can report that it fits quite nicely into a 43/64 hole. They also sell another wheel stud,[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]BRP2075, which is exactly the same, but 3.75 inches long. The shorter stud worked fine in my application, but some people may want more stud sticking[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]out. BRP2051 is the lug nut that matches, but I think any 5/8 course lug nut would work fine."[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The important thing here is to select the studs you need to use FIRST, measure the knurl diameter carefully (mic it) and then have the holes drilled slightly undersize for a proper tight interference fit. Standard class V interference fit (tight - semi-perm. assembly) the interference (shaft bigger than hole) should be between 3 and 18 thou. Given this, and the fact that the measurement of the knurl will be the major diameter of the splines, I would shoot for a 15 thou undersize hole. Given the measured knurl size of .672, this would mean a hole diameter of .657. A 21/32 drill bit is .656250, yielding an interference fit of 15.7 thou. That should be just about perfect, but MEASURE TWICE, drill once![/FONT]

from the D60 bible on pirate

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html

 

[munepit]

Good work Steve!

When I swapped in my 60, I didn't have to swap studs and I run both steel and alum. wheels. Now that I think about it, There isnt much thead usable when I run the alum. wheels. But I have launched my Burb over cars and Jumped the crap out of it on the alum. wheels and no worries.

Can you bolt up the alum. wheels now?

 

[Smokinthehippies]

Good work Steve!

When I swapped in my 60, I didn't have to swap studs and I run both steel and alum. wheels. Now that I think about it, There isnt much thead usable when I run the alum. wheels. But I have launched my Burb over cars and Jumped the crap out of it on the alum. wheels and no worries.

Can you bolt up the alum. wheels now?

the only reason i even knew that is because i've been reading it about 3 times daily since i got my 60 last week

 

[aj's tonka truck]

I tried the 610-303 yesterday evening, everything seems ok except the smooth shoulder just past the knurl. It mics out to be about 20 thou. larger than the hole in the axel hub and I believe that if I press it in with a press that it could crack the hub. There is no knurl there on the stud, it is smooth, I know that usualy when you press a larger smooth rod in a hole you usualy don't want more than 5 thou. of resistance. I will probably have to take some metal off the shoulder of the stud or drill a slightly bigger hole in the hub. I'm leaning toward working on the stud instead of messing with the hub. Anyone have any ideas? I did try to install the stud as is with a air hammer tool and it wouldn't go in! I know that for instance a rist pin that goes in a piston rod only has 5 thou. of resistance.
I understand that 15 thou. of resistance with a knurl is ok because the knurl will give some but a solid shoulder won't so I'm afraid it would crack the hub.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

are they drw hubs/rotors or srw?

 

[aj's tonka truck]

I got this dana 60 out of a 1987 1 ton crewcab 4x4 at a wrecking yard. It came with disc brakes. It had a 454 engine in it with manual tranny. I installed new everything in it with new rotors and calipers. I can bolt up the mag wheels with only 1 1/2 thread showing. Thats not much, I think the reccomendation for lug nuts is the same amount of threads showing as thread size, this being 9/16. I am not anywhere close to that and I will be running 38 " tires in river bottom country where there is alot of mud.