CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

dana 60 hub/rotor removal question

FlatBlackBurb

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Posts
385
Reaction score
0
Location
Santa Cruz, CA
okay. first time doing this. i went out and bought new hubs from my local 4x4 shop that are SRW to take the place of my DRW ones. i removed the usual first (everything in the top row on the 2nd picture. starting with the right side and going to the left) and then the driveshaft turned which released pressure on the spring which pushed out the ring in the bottom right corner of the 2nd picture, followed by the spring.

what else do i need to do here to get the hubs and rotors off. any help would be appreciated since it is my first time. it looks like i need to get the ring thats around the axle shaft in the first pic off but it won't budge.

cimg2011tc0.jpg



cimg2013mk6.jpg
 
The piece that is on the stub axle is actually part of the locking hub. You need to push it back some and then get a file and start cleaning up the splined area of the stub so you can slide that piece off. I hope you have new locking hubs also as that one is toast. Also that large conical spring does not belong in behind a manual locking hub, those were behind the original drive slugs and needs to be removed when swapping over to manual hubs.

EDIT: What i thought to be a large conical spring actually looks like it is the spring that is inside the locking hub. Disregard my comment about it if this is indeed what it is.
 
You need to take the caliper retention clip out (remove the allen head screw, push the clip out and then remove the caliper and set it aside).

Then remove the gear that's on the axle shaft (that 4x4HIGH was talking about). Nothing about any of that looks bad to me and I doubt you will have to use a file to get it apart.

Then get a 6 prong hub socket from your local auto parts store and remove the outer spindle nut. Then you will likely have a thin washer with a bunch of prongs on it, this is the lock washer. Nothing should be holding this in, remover it using assistance from a screwdriver. Remove the inner spindle nut and the hub/rotor should come off.

There is another style of spindle nut lock (than the thin washer with prongs) but its more rare.
 
i don't have new locking hubs. i really can't afford it right now. will i be ok just greasing/cleaning everything up and putting everything back in? eventually i will get new hubs but not right now
 
That locking hub should not have came apart like it did. After removing the 6 allen screws it should have came out in one piece. If by chance you can figure out how to get it back together and PROPERLY lubed you'll be ok otherwise new hubs are in order. Warn is very specific about not taking their hubs apart and definately not trying to grease them. :crazy:
 
That locking hub should not have came apart like it did. After removing the 6 allen screws it should have came out in one piece. If by chance you can figure out how to get it back together and PROPERLY lubed you'll be ok otherwise new hubs are in order. Warn is very specific about not taking their hubs apart and definately not trying to grease them. :crazy:

Those are Spicer hubs, and look just like the ones I got with my '60

The Warn hubs basically come apart as an assembly, the Spicer ones come apart in parts. The Spicers are generally sought after because they are considered stronger than any of the aftermarket ones.

If your hubs work ok don't bother replacing them.
 
well i dont know if they work or not. after putting the 60 in, i got the death wobble. and i was pretty much stranded at the house because i couldnt' drive anywhere. its a little tough to switch the drivers side between lock and free but the passenger side works fine.

and yeah i have a tub of synthetic water resistant grease im going to lube them up with. i just took the calipers off and thats my furthest progress. the gear on the axle shaft is still on there like a b*tch.


a 6 prong socket? i picked up a 4 prong socket that said "1982-1990 HD chevy 3/4 and 1 ton" which is what the guy at my local 4x4 shop said to get. do you have any pictures of the 6 prong. i'd like to pick that up as well just in case. i hate running everywhere to get parts in the middle of a project.
 
never seen a six sided ..ie tabs on a rotor nut....always 4...but also a 1 ton n00b!

wheres an allen holdin "clip" ...is it visible in the pic?
 
actually i just got everything (rotors too) off of the passenger side. the center gear in the 1st pic took some severe coaxing but it finally pulled off. and yes it was a 6 prong socket.

the drivers side i wasn't so lucky. the grease in there practically turned to dirt and slush. i couldnt get the gear off. guess i'll have to go get a gear puller or something of the sort. its pretty dry in there. bad sign.

ill post up tomorrow with pics
 
and the washer between 6 prong nut also has prongs, instead of holes that fits a tit on inner nut and a cutout that fits in a groove,...i see a manual in my future
 
and the washer between 6 prong nut also has prongs, instead of holes that fits a tit on inner nut and a cutout that fits in a groove,...i see a manual in my future


Dude Dana 60s have the holes and pins like was said earlier. I have only seen the tab and slot style on 14FFs.

I have never seen a spicer hub either but my warns were cake to disassemble and clean:D

Dik
 
Dude Dana 60s have the holes and pins like was said earlier. I have only seen the tab and slot style on 14FFs.

I have never seen a spicer hub either but my warns were cake to disassemble and clean:D

Dik

My front D60 has the tab and slot style......so DUDE, you are wrong. :rolleyes: Maybe some D60's have the holes and pins, but definitely not all of them. When I originally took it apart it had tab and slot style, and I went to NAPA and got a "kit" to replace the nuts and lockrings and it was the same style also.

I will agree about your comment about the Warn hubs. I don't have them on my D60, but I took apart the ones on my old 10-bolt several times to clean and LIGHTLY grease them and it was pretty easy to do.
 
that must be a drw since no hub sticking out, do srw/drw both come apart the same so i can follow his pics?

Not trying to be a prick, but at least read all of the posts before asking questions like. Right in the first post he says he is switching out the DRW hubs for SRW versions.

Anyway, short answer = yes
Long answer = it's been discussed about 11 billion times.
 
got it. thanks guys. yeah i saw the locking nut with the tit in it that you snug tight, and the washer with the holes in it that goes ontop, and then the nut that you tighten the f*** out of. i saw them at the 4x4 shop and they looked nothing like mine. i'm gonna go down there and talk to him today and see what he thinks if i should keep my old stuff or get the new locking nuts.

any recomendations on how to clean everything in there? i want to clean them really really well.
 
any recomendations on how to clean everything in there? i want to clean them really really well.


Get a cheap crock pot and a big bottle of simple green. "Cook" everything except the cap with the plastic hub dials. Those shouldnt be too dirty. Inside the bearing hubs. Degreaser/Solvent and lots of rags.:D
 
ok i'll do that.

so lets get this straight. from inside to out it goes

axle seal
inner bearing
race
outer bearing/race
and then the lock nut, washer, lock nut etc etc

right?
 
Top Bottom