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Dana 60 Powerlock Install Question / 1 ton conversion

THUNDERUSONE

THUNDERUSONE

1/2 ton status
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OK, I am a newb here...but this place kicks azz! I bought a 91 suburban 3/4t 350fi, 4l80e, 3:73 open diffs truck from a buddy over christmas. I got the fever and ordered a set of NEW axles from Memphis Equipment. Dana 60 front with 4:56's and open carrier. 14BFF with a detroit and 4:56's for the rear. I am trying to get all my other parts together for the swap which I would like to accompllish in a weekend. I bought a nos power lok from SweetK30...Thanks Dude! I need help with the following:

1.Do I need a case spreader and any other specialty tools to take the old open carrier out and put the power lok in? They r both 4:56 ratio carriers. If I put the shims back in the way they come out, will the setup still be correct with the new power lok carrier?

2.How much oil does a stk gm dana 60 front hold and what brand and weight oil do you guys recommend?

3. Will the stk front brake lines bolt up to the new 60 1 ton calipers?

4. What weight oil, brand do you guys reccomend and how much does the 14bff rear need?

I have a new set of u bolts and spring pads and plates on the way for both front and rear. I scored a new set of warn premiums yesterday from Randys Ring and Pinion (didnt even know that they had a warehouse in TN...much less 15 mins from me!) I assume my rear brake lines (hard and soft) will work on the rear. It has a 14bsf in it now. I am going to stay with the drums for now since they are new and I dont do much mud. Is there anything else that I havent thought of to do the swap?? I can't take my driveshaft measurements until I get the axles in. I have a 275A Miller Mig and an extreme plasma to move the spring pads on the back axle.

Thanks in advance!! I have already learned a ton from night after night of reading on here over the last 2 weeks!!
 
Your front brake lines will work just fine with the D60's calipers. However, you may need to upgrade to a 1 ton brake master cylinder after you make the swap. Try your original master first, but in my case, my pedal was right down on the floor after making the swap, and it wasn't a bleeding problem. Rear brake line will work just fine as well.

Not sure on the oil capacities, but I run Napa's premium brand 80w90 GL Hypoid gear oil in my front and rear diffs.

Also keep in mind that if your truck is lifted, you'll need some form of steering correction for the D60. For some reason, raised steering arms don't seem to exist for them, just steering arm lift blocks. I tried a drop drag link on my truck, and wasn't very happy with how it handled. When I eventually swap the D60 back in later on, I'll be installing it with crossover hi-steer & hydro assist.
 
Technically, to change carriers you will need to get the tools and reset the backlash so that it's in spec.

IME, the carriers are machined VERY close to each other and 95% of the time you won't need to change shims at all.

So, if you don't want to buy the tools and spend a bunch of time messing with backlash to make sure its absolutely right you will probably be fine, especially since it's a front end.

This is coming from someone who has setup a lot (25+) differentials.

My .02
 
38377k5 said:
Technically, to change carriers you will need to get the tools and reset the backlash so that it's in spec.

IME, the carriers are machined VERY close to each other and 95% of the time you won't need to change shims at all.

So, if you don't want to buy the tools and spend a bunch of time messing with backlash to make sure its absolutely right you will probably be fine, especially since it's a front end.

This is coming from someone who has setup a lot (25+) differentials.

My .02
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Thanks for the replies. Do I need a case spreader to get em in and out?
 
youll know when you cross that bridge lol


some have come out with a good tug and some ive needed a pair of prybars and elbow grease but have never needed a speader. ive only pulled say 5 carriers from dana axles.
 
THUNDERUSONE said:
Thanks for the replies. Do I need a case spreader to get em in and out?
Click to expand...

Nope, if you can't get the case out put a wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and then put a socket on the pinion nut and turn it (make sure to tighten, not loosen the nut), carrier will pop out every time :thumb:
 
Also you are going to want to go with hydro assist and probably crossover steering. The first time you put it in 4wd and go to turn you will figure out why. Been there, done that. I have been running a Powerlock in the front for about 8 years.
 
WELL CRAP!! Thats why i was putting this in vs a full locker. I had a lock right in a 91 k5 years ago with 35's and a 4" lift and I broke a name brand raised steering arm (1/2 ton stuff)off at the knuckle. You couldnt steer it for chit if you were in anything but goo. I was ready to get the crossover hydro setup when I read about people having bad bump steer and death wobble. This is going to be a dual purpose rig that I will drive 3 hours to my rv on the interstate and then 4 wheel across varied mountain terrein. I am building a 598ci tall deck for it. Appoximately 700hp 800ft/lb 89 octane motor so I would like to be able to punch it every now and then to 80 or 90mph for short bursts once and a blue moon. The last thing I need is a 8" lift burb out of control if the crossover does not have good interstate manners. Maybe I need to look at the arb again.
 
Crossover will be fine. My old 89 that I SAS'd was crossover, took it on the highway all the time, never had any steering issues at all. Up here in NYS the roads SUCK, so there is bumps and dips all over the road, never was an issue. Speedo never worked, but keeping up and passing traffic at times....
 
Crossover and hydro assist is fine on the highway. I only started to trailer mine last year but up untill then it seen a good bit of highway use.
 
My home-made crossover is fine on the highway. I just had the truck up to 70 in front wheel drive and it wasn't bad, even with the terrible condition of my tie rod ends and an old stabilizer. I actually think the truck handles better than it did with the lift springs and stock steering with the swaybar.

My stock 60 and 14 bolt took just under a gallon each. I am partial to Royal Purple and Amsoil, personally. My brake lines were all fine for 1 ton axles, but I ended up going with longer ones anyways. If you end up with real long ones like I needed, a neat trick is to use carb springs to hold them out of harm's way. They aren't very strong, so the spring will stretch easy, but it will hold them in place when you aren't drooping them or turning. My 1/2 ton master cylinder works great with the 1 tons, but it is also brand new.

I also found that my drivelines were pretty much fine because they were stock length and the truck is about 4" over stock. My front is proper length now, but I had to do the rear because it was way too short to begin with, I moved the axle back, and I added about 15" of droop to the suspension. The pinions are about an inch longer on the 60s/14 bolts, so if they are a bit short now, they'll probably be just right. If they end up too long, I'd recommend pushing the axles out about .5"-1" with a zero rate or Kurt's front hangers. The approach/departure angles would be a bit better, and it's a lot cheaper than doing new drivelines.

Since you have a good welder, I'd recommend fixing the steering before you even put the 60 in there (more room to work with the axle out). I got some used arms for cheap off my local board, but even brand new the Ballistic (my preference) arms are only like $260. The DOM tube and inserts will probably run you around $50. 2wd sector shafts are like $8 at my local junk yard, and they take all of 10 minutes with a ratchet to swap out. There's a number of usable pitman arms in junkyards depending on the suspension you're going to run. I got my pitman plus a matching spare for $7 at Pick n Pull. I know everything adds up, as most of us suffer from "might as well" syndrome (as my girlfriend calls it), but it really doesn't need to cost anywhere near as much as a whole "kit" online if you don't mind putting some labor into it.
 
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owenst7 said:
My home-made crossover is fine on the highway. I just had the truck up to 70 in front wheel drive and it wasn't bad, even with the terrible condition of my tie rod ends and an old stabilizer. I actually think the truck handles better than it did with the lift springs and stock steering with the swaybar.

My stock 60 and 14 bolt took just under a gallon each. I am partial to Royal Purple and Amsoil, personally. My brake lines were all fine for 1 ton axles, but I ended up going with longer ones anyways. If you end up with real long ones like I needed, a neat trick is to use carb springs to hold them out of harm's way. They aren't very strong, so the spring will stretch easy, but it will hold them in place when you aren't drooping them or turning. My 1/2 ton master cylinder works great with the 1 tons, but it is also brand new.


Since you have a good welder, I'd recommend fixing the steering before you even put the 60 in there (more room to work with the axle out). I got some used arms for cheap off my local board, but even brand new the Ballistic (my preference) arms are only like $260. The DOM tube and inserts will probably run you around $50. 2wd sector shafts are like $8 at my local junk yard, and they take all of 10 minutes with a ratchet to swap out. There's a number of usable pitman arms in junkyards depending on the suspension you're going to run. I got my pitman plus a matching spare for $7 at Pick n Pull. I know everything adds up, as most of us suffer from "might as well" syndrome (as my girlfriend calls it), but it really doesn't need to cost anywhere near as much as a whole "kit" online if you don't mind putting some labor into it.
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Great Info Owenst7....Thanks!
 
See, told ya you'ed get good replies here. Your welcome. :D Some of the other forums are just this in the way of traffic.
 
rdn2blazer said:
See, told ya you'ed get good replies here. Your welcome. :D Some of the other forums are just this in the way of traffic.
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You da man! So does anyone have any input on swapping the carrier bearings from the old carrier to the new carrier as far as special tools? Or, can I do this without buying special pullers and screwing up the existing bearings just to wish I spent the money and bought the tools??:D
 
THUNDERUSONE said:
The 60 I have is new....so I would think that the bearings would be good??
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They probably are but generally removing bearings from a Dana carrier means you're going to destroy them unless you buy some high dollar tool.

Two new bearings will be cheaper than that tool.
 
38377k5 said:
They probably are but generally removing bearings from a Dana carrier means you're going to destroy them unless you buy some high dollar tool.

Two new bearings will be cheaper than that tool.
Click to expand...

Ahh...then I assume I can install the new ones with a standard hydraulic press?
 
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