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Dana 60 stock steering arm stud source

K588

K588

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My brother has a Dana 60 in his truck, po used the block under the steering arm cap to correct the steering. It sheared the studs off clean at the knuckle the other day.

He is not very mechanically inclined and is a medically disabled vet so cannot afford a crossover system. I'm traveling to fix the truck for him. I sourced a new drivers side knuckle and ordered a drop pitman arm from ORD . The knuckle I found is missing the studs. I will not be putting the block back in.

Can anyone point me where to get the stock size drivers side studs and nuts for a Dana 60 steering arm?

All I seem to find are for high steer, crossover or for the stupid blocks.
 
I would think studs for a crossover arm would work, most aftermarket arms aren't much thicker than a stock arm. ARP makes some, I think I got mine from ORD.
 
aren't the studs the same for the stock steering arm and an aftermarket arm?

here is a pic of my stock D60 arm

IMG_7260.JPG
 
You guys might be absolutely right. I sent an email to ruff stuff about a set they had and they said the shoulder was different and I would stick with fully threaded bolts???
 
I've seen them with bolts before, not sure if that was factory though. Some 1/2" grade 8 bolts are easy enough to source though.
 
even if you do bolts you need tappered cones for the seat .

x2 if you cant find stock try the aftermarket arm studs . call ord up they will know 100% on our gm stuff .
 
ARP makes them so you should be able to get them from Jegs, Summit and other retailers with locations closer to you as well.
 
stock one in my hand from a gm 60 knuckle .

top thread section = 1 1/8" long
middle smooth = 5/8" long
end thread in knuckle = 7/8"
overall = 2 3/4" long tip to tip
1/2" fine us thread both ends .

these are tape measure specs not dial caliper .

fine thread open ended lug nut 3/4 hex size for the socket or it will be to big to clear the stock steering arm for the nuts is what a lot of the kits come with included to go with the studs .
 
K588 said:
You guys might be absolutely right. I sent an email to ruff stuff about a set they had and they said the shoulder was different and I would stick with fully threaded bolts???
Click to expand...

The people at Ruff Stuff are correct. Most over the counter studs at a hardware store have shoulders that are too thick, and the mounting holes in the steering arm will not fit over them. The last time I needed a set of studs for my Dana-60 I got them from Off Road Design (ORD).
 
 
Thank you all for the replies. I must have been searching with the wrong wording.

I haven't pulled a knuckle off a 60 in probably 10 years . I'm traveling about 5 hours away one way to fix this. Anyone think of anything tool wise I might forget or wish I had with me. Besides normal hand tools, torque wrench, hub socket?
 
You'll find that factory studs have a larger diameter unthreaded shank than most aftermarket stuff and definitely larger than ours. They will still work right thanks to the tapered nut so it's not a big deal.

DO NOT USE BOLTS. Factory studs are roughly 170-180KSI material. Grade 8 is 150KSI. ARP is 190+. Grade 8 bolts don't play on the same court as an ARP stud and definitely don't belong on a steering arm.
 
Jesse at your place sent me your part # U9002 stud kit yesterday. He said they were the ARP that would work with the stock arm and have the cone nuts with them. Also got your GU5105 2"dropped Pitman arm to replace the existing block.

Thanks for the info.
 
ether i dont play hard or just lucky . i have grd 8 bolts with the coned washers from dynatrac from like 2001-2002 range and run stock 235/85/16 to 38x12.50 swampers and plow lots of snow and trail ride and not 1 bolt problem .and his axle is now under its 3rd truck .

but as you said the strength is in the stud clamping force and pressure range .
 
If it were me, and funds permitted, I'd get a knuckle and steering arm that were keyed. No more worries about bolt strength. :D
 
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