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Decided to stick with 35's axle help

lak2004

1/2 ton status
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Aug 31, 2006
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Durango, CO
So I am over the stage of 1 tons and 42s because it is unrealistic and I dont have the cash or a tow rig. So I think I would like to stick with 35's or maybe bump to 37's. So I am thinking maybe going 14 bsf so I can keep my 6 lug wheels. Any thoughts on front? I would like to lock the back with a detroit or something. Will the 10 bolt front hold up to 37s with a locker or should I keep it open?
 
i have seen 38" tsl on stock 10 bolt for years and several motors with no problems. but then seeen others snap easy.

have read that 10 bolt / 44 front with full locker setup = break stuff.

if me i would go with selectable and if not and full locker go aftermarket shafts/joints.

14sf 6 lug good axle and its better 14mm big studs over the little 7/16 studs on stock. best to upgrade front studs to bigger also.
 
Now I just need to find someone with a 14bsf. :doah: If I lock the front it will prob be an ox locker or something selectable, cant afford arb but it would be nice.
 
read up on the ox . lots of adjustment problems and almost the same price as arb.

and you think about it building a 44 or 10 bolt = almost same cash as doin a 60. . . . . .
 
It will be ok up front with a locker if you're easy on it.

Yukon shafts (lifetime warranty) and Spicer joints are CHEAP for a 28 spline 10 bolt, snag those (we have them) and keep your current shafts as spares.

Unfortunately the stock carrier is fairly weak and "lunchbox" style lockers for that axle are too, if you want a locker you're probably in for a full carrier one.
 
read up on the ox . lots of adjustment problems and almost the same price as arb.

and you think about it building a 44 or 10 bolt = almost same cash as doin a 60. . . . . .

I have installed 3 oxs it takes some fiddling to get the cable into adjustment but once adjusted properly the 3 I have done didn't need anything.

While it is true that if you build a 10b or 44 you are pretty much at stock Dana 60 strength but the cost is nearly equal if not more to build a 10/44 than just buy a stock 60.

Ground clearance is at issue though for a smaller truck that will not see more than 37s I think a built 44/10 is a great option. I fully intend to spend a ludicrous amount of money on my 10 bolt in my Jimmy. One cause its not the hard core crawler (Horton fills that role nicely) second because the 10 bolt will be fine open for quite a few years. I plan on crane knuckles (for high steer) and some sort of aftermarket shaft with a selectable locker.

The weak point on a 10/44 is the hub (for a 37" or down tire) but drive flanges for said axle are easy to come by.

Thing is you can have a ton of fun with a rear locker and an open front, I ran 38s on a 10 bolt front for 3 years, it was open. I never put a locker in it cause it would break.

The 14b SF rear and 10/44 front for a 37" and under tire is IMHO a good combo.
 
Yukon shafts (lifetime warranty) and Spicer joints are CHEAP for a 28 spline 10 bolt, snag those (we have them) and keep your current shafts as spares.

OK, so how much are they? It would be nice to see the prices on the web page.
 
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