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DIY: Check your R&P ratios...

It's much easier to rotate tire 2 full revs and count the times the driveshaft turns. No calculator needed. With 3.08's, two turns of one tire (with the other tire not turning), driveshaft will turn 3.08 times. 411's will turn 4.11 times and so on.

Edit: If you spin both tires together (posi or locker) one full turn of both tires together and count the times the driveshaft turns.
 
and you don't have to worry aobut the hi lift falling!
 
ya, while that is some neat calculator work. Really turn the tire 2x and litterally count the driveshaft revolutions = ratio
 
Okay, okay... I get it already... I only showed 1 of a hundred ways to check your R&P! :haha:

But it still works...

Cheers,
Andrew
 
ChrisPerry said:
It's much easier to rotate tire 2 full revs and count the times the driveshaft turns. No calculator needed. With 3.08's, two turns of one tire (with the other tire not turning), driveshaft will turn 3.08 times. 411's will turn 4.11 times and so on.

Edit: If you spin both tires together (posi or locker) one full turn of both tires together and count the times the driveshaft turns.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the extra info... thats pretty slick. I did the method that I found first on the Net... thats all.

Andrew
 
:thumb: lol its all good. thats just a lot of work for something so simple.


pfft.... maintenance mixed with info hunting is for the birds. :whistle:
 
I've missed your videos. I applaud your use of a co-hostess, unfortunately, about half way thru some guy walked onto the set... Just kidding, so what's the plan? Rebuild or swap the rear? Future updates to your build thread?
 
Screw it... cheapest and easiest is just swap F&R axles and go to 3.73 as a bonus. (Ive got 3.08, the front axle is just fine... but will need to do both to match ratios (only when in 4X4..) but is should snow soon, so I want to use my 4X4!)

Together, I figure about $700... It will likely cost that just to have the rear axle regeared and repaired... IF the housing and/or carrier isnt toasted. Who knows... Been having bad drivline vibrations since I got it... and I just NOW figured out what was causing it... (a day late, a dollar short... the story of my life)

Dont fret folks, Ill shot some vid of the swap too... keep your popcorn near the nukebox...


Andrew
 
As a bonus, I *could* keep both axles, and install 4.11 in them... I can take my time and learn to do R&P install, and swap THEM in when READY, then sell the 3.73.. *COULD* is the magic word... I'll know for sure once I pull the cover of the .08 axles.

If I do that, I can get some 16" wagon wheel rims, and some cheap'o metric tires that are ohh..... about 34" tall, I hope 11.5" wide...

I still need to install a proper lift (currently, as it was when I got it, running 3" blox front and rear... WTF). Not sure yet... 4" or 6".
Decisions, decisions. (Tax return time, timeframe)

Keep in mind... this is my daily driver. I know... WTF for that too!!!

Just thinking out loud...


Andrew
 
If you find a set with 3.73's and get all excited to do a gear swap yourself to the old ones...go with 4.56. The real world difference between 3.73 and 4.11 is minuscule, you wouldn't likely be able to tell the difference.

You're #1 priority shouldn't be fretting about gearing, it should be about getting rid of those front blocks!! A rig with front blocks is just dangerous...
 
:sign17:

Get rid of the front blocks now. The PO of mine put in front blocks and the one on the driver's side broke. It caused vibration, swerving on braking, noise, etc. I'm just thankfull it stayed in for the short time I drove it that way. Get some correct lift springs and save your life and the rig. Mine is a whole new truck after doing it the right way.

And, I feel your pain with the 3.08's. I'm hunting for a new set of axles to swap, but this winter, mine will stay 3.08 in the snow.
 
byggyns said:
Get rid of the front blocks
Click to expand...
Its in the plans, its a matter of money... Its slated for a proper lift, likely tax return time.

Should I do 4" or 6"??? I think with 4", I shouldn't need to change or modify much, if any at all. What would be involved with a 6" lift?!?!

Thanks!
Andrew
 
I like the 4" on mine. I only needed to get the extended length brake hoses and the raised steering arm- in addition to the kit (springs, shocks, u-bolts). My driveshafts are about maxed out though, so I would think 6" would be too much without getting longer ones made. Mine also has dual exhaust. I've heard there can be interference with either 4" or 6" with stock exhaust.
With either lift, you may want to look at getting angle shims for the rear end- if your lift kit doesn't correct pinion angle, or a transfer case drop kit. that helps with the u-joint vibration
 
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