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Dmax in a 72 blazer

Sounds like you can get it done yourself! I have done many a project using my own circuit boards. I am running my blazer on megasquirt as well using all the stock sensors, trigger wheels, and COP hardware with an LQ9.

The problem you might run into is the size of the board. The biggest pre-sensitized board I have ever come across is 12 x 12. Those go for about 20 bucks. You might have to do some creative thinking and break the board into two different boards with a cable between the halves. Careful consideration of power and data lines would have to be considered. But, it is totally doable and way cheaper than 400 bucks.

Rufus
 
One thing that I was considering for the light lenses were a set of gells used in theater. They are designed to be placed in front of stage lights to change the color of the light They handle high heat and remain stable color wise. A 10 x 10 sheet costs about 3 bucks and they are available in a wide range of colors.

This is one example:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=244-170&source=googleps

You could cut the sheets (with scissors) to fit the various locations and then attach these to the back side of the bezel using adhesive or glue of some type (still thinking about that one). They are quite flexible and should be durable with good color qualities.

Rufus
 
Why not colored LEDs? Easy to mount to a PCB, never burn out, and come in any color you want.

You could go with SMT components to avoid drilling, but it makes the soldering more of a pain.
 
There are definitly advantages to using colored LEDs in this instance. As you mentioned they are colored right off the bat and they last practicably forever. You can even use tricolor LEDs and make the color infinitely variable.

One thing that I had difficulty with when using LED for instrument back-lighting is hot spots. an LED has a very narrow focus. most common LEDs usually have about a 20 degree field of view. this leads to uneven illumination of the target. Not to say that can not be overcome but it is difficult.
 
You could have a translucent piece of plastic (or a film) across the whole back of the stainless piece. That should defuse the LED light. Just a thought.
 
Nice

boy you fellas are hard at work :D
ive allready looked into the Light filters and couldnt find anny near me BUT I will deff give a looksee. I used the folders as they are opaque nd diffuse light very nicely, I also have white over top of some of them so when not backlight there is nothing showing. I guess i should take a pic of that too =). I am going to use LEDs on everything and I have to use prisms to bounce backtlightin around as well thats allso on the ta doo list.
Keep it commin. oh and you can sesnetize your own PCB my dad started that way. I remember using tape and markers to make PCBs as a kid. I loved radio shack when it was an "electronics" store. We used to have Sandys electronics WHOA I could live there as a kid or ITC, Now? Pfft your lucky to find batterys for your remote. I think I have most of it all worked out in my head now just to cut that some bitch open and let it out:haha:
anyways Ill get back the the guage cluster soon as Im sure the sooner i get that done the sooner Ill get recognized and maybee ge some work I LIKE to do :laugh:
 
Childeren of the grave. nice! Glad to see you got that bitch going!!I got to get my turbo to sound like that!! I`m on dp too, very cool vid! HAVE FUN!!
 
y5mgisi said:
Awesome! He cant launch in 4WD like you can!
Click to expand...
HEY! are you trying to stick up for a Ford? :popcorn:

Heh yea your right there is a lot he couldnt do against my Crapbox =) first of all was beat a 6k lbs truck on 37's =)
You all should see the vids of the Turboed slicked hondas that fell to my prowess too :D
 
No not at all! Saying you got his ass beat with your 4WD launch! (1000+lb.ft of torque dont hurt either!)
 
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