What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Driveline Vibration/Grind

1-ton said:
Cracked flex plates like to make noise under acceleration and de-celeration. The bell housing sends the noise all over the vehicle like echoes in a canyon, and makes it hard to locate.
Click to expand...
I don't think it would be the flex plate, trans was recently rebuilt and after reading some other threads about it, just doesn't match what I am hearing.
 
goochieman83 said:
I just set the phone on the driveshaft to get the angle. Best I can do at the moment with this phone app.
Click to expand...



Yah that doesn't tell you much. With a standard drive shaft, you want the pinion angle and the transfer case angle as close to parallel as possible.




And parallel is not saying they need to point at each other. If one is horizontal to the ground, the other should be as well.
 
Deuling said:
Yah that doesn't tell you much. With a standard drive shaft, you want the pinion angle and the transfer case angle as close to parallel as possible.




And parallel is not saying they need to point at each other. If one is horizontal to the ground, the other should be as well.
Click to expand...
Yeah I got ya, and eyeballing it, they do look parallel to the ground, very close to 0 degrees.
 
Deuling said:
Yah that doesn't tell you much. With a standard drive shaft, you want the pinion angle and the transfer case angle as close to parallel as possible.

And parallel is not saying they need to point at each other. If one is horizontal to the ground, the other should be as well.
Click to expand...

That works, but Spicer says only up to 3 degrees of operating angle. He's just a bit over that :doah:

CV shaft is the only way you're going to get rid of that.
 
38377k5 said:
That works, but Spicer says only up to 3 degrees of operating angle. He's just a bit over that :doah:

CV shaft is the only way you're going to get rid of that.
Click to expand...



True. What I was really hoping for is that with the flip he is already in the right pinion angle to just put a CV in. That's why itd be good to know the output and pinion angles for the time being.
 
All right everybody, contacted High angle driveline and gave them the best specs I could NP203 t-case 14 bolt rear and driveshaft angle, no pinion or t-case angle. They said a cv shaft should solve the problem and if not then 100% guaranteed refund. The cv shaft is $500 though.
 
So if I pull the trigger on a cv shaft, where else can I look besides high angle driveline. If at all possible I would love to stay around the $400 mark.
 
Before you go spending money on a shaft, have you checked the u joints? If this problem just developed without any change in geometry, sounds like it could be a bad u joint. If this problem is immediately after a lift/axle swap then you start looking at driveshaft geometry.
Also: Bad geometry from a long time ago will lead to premature u joint failures. So it could be both.
 
Will do. I wasn't going to jump into an expensive purchase just yet, I like my money too much. But I don't want to go tearing anything up either. I will check them out first. Didn't seem like there was too much play in them when I checked the other day but I just wiggled the driveshaft around to see.
 
U-joints can be bad even if they are still "tight"...
I've taken quite a few apart and found the journals all rippled by the needle bearings,that can make for some grinding-rumbly type of vibrations..this happens often on lifted rigs with extreme angles..
 
So many things to consider, that's why troubleshooting is so fun. Haha. Well I will talk to the PO and see how long ago that driveshaft was put in. It looks fairly new so if that's the case I would assume the u joint are as well.
 
A guy I know had a '78 K5 with a 6" lift,no other mods to the truck like a longer drive shaft ,no lowered transfer case-- and that thing would ride smooth as glass--for about 500 miles..then it would start that ringing-grinding sound..soon after,you'd swear it was going to spit the rear shaft out..

Take the u-joints apart,that still felt "new" and tight,and found the journals all scalloped up...put new ones in,good for another 500-1000 miles..
 
goochieman83 said:
Will do. I wasn't going to jump into an expensive purchase just yet, I like my money too much. But I don't want to go tearing anything up either. I will check them out first. Didn't seem like there was too much play in them when I checked the other day but I just wiggled the driveshaft around to see.
Click to expand...

yeah, my 89 1-ton felt pretty solid too. The I pulled it apart and the needle bearings were dry and rusted... Of course this was after I replaced the driveline support bearing.
 
Alright, was under the blazer today to pull the driveshaft, finally, and noticed the trans mount was pretty worn. I grabbed the tail shaft and the trans/transfer case moves quite a bit back and forth. Wondering if this was the cause of the grind/vibration. Either was the mount needs replaced.
 
It most definitely will. Check your motor mounts visually as well.
 
Yeah I never checker the motor mounts but the rubber on the trans mount is cracked on both side pretty bad. Gonna grab a nice poly energy suspension one if I can.
 
goochieman83 said:
Yeah I never checker the motor mounts but the rubber on the trans mount is cracked on both side pretty bad. Gonna grab a nice poly energy suspension one if I can.
Click to expand...

Do not put a poly trans mount in, and still have rubber engine mounts. You are asking for a broken transmission housing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom