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eBay 1350 C/V shafts

Blue85

Blue85

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Anybody have experience with these driveshafts?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ryZ33738QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

456e_1.JPG


I contacted the seller about flanges to connect it to. Specifically I was interested in using a stock flange from the front of a 208 (my T-case has 28-spline outputs front and rear) and he makes it sound like he can do that.

hi. i can make this shaft with the chevy cv. 3" pilot. 1350 cv. flat 4 bolt flange. thanks curtis. 1-801-685-0056.
Click to expand...

I'm just wondering. If this is so easy to do, then why do places like HAD produce custom flanges for their CVs?
 
Blue85 said:
Anybody have experience with these driveshafts?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ryZ33738QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

456e_1.JPG


I contacted the seller about flanges to connect it to. Specifically I was interested in using a stock flange from the front of a 208 (my T-case has 28-spline outputs front and rear) and he makes it sound like he can do that.



I'm just wondering. If this is so easy to do, then why do places like HAD produce custom flanges for their CVs?
Click to expand...

It says that it is .083 wall. I think that would twist like a pretzle the first time it touched anything. For that money I think it should be .125 atleast. Just my .02

Dik
 
sandawgk5 said:
It says that it is .083 wall. I think that would twist like a pretzle the first time it touched anything. For that money I think it should be .125 atleast. Just my .02

Dik
Click to expand...

I don't think .080" or .125" wall will hold up very well if it actually touches a rock.

On a fullsize, if you actually want the shaft to rest on a rock and not dent I would plan on a .250" wall shaft (and then you have no chance of having it balanced or using it on the street).

I've had the truck resting on the front shaft (.250" wall) and on the old rear shaft (.090" wall). The front had no damage, the rear looked like this:

P1010103.jpg


P1010106.jpg



My .250" wall front shaft would have taken that with no damage, a .120" wall shaft would have no chance.

Basically, if your driveshaft hits a rock I wouldn't plan on .080", .090" or .120" to survive.
 
38377k5 said:
I don't think .080" or .125" wall will hold up very well if it actually touches a rock.

On a fullsize, if you actually want the shaft to rest on a rock and not dent I would plan on a .250" wall shaft (and then you have no chance of having it balanced or using it on the street).

I've had the truck resting on the front shaft (.250" wall) and on the old rear shaft (.090" wall). The front had no damage, the rear looked like this:

P1010103.jpg


P1010106.jpg



My .250" wall front shaft would have taken that with no damage, a .120" wall shaft would have no chance.

Basically, if your driveshaft hits a rock I wouldn't plan on .080", .090" or .120" to survive.
Click to expand...

That is basically what I was trying to say. But pictures are better:D

Dik
 
Sweet. You created a "high clearance" driveshaft. How hard is it to time your approach to obstacles so that it's in the "high" mode instead of the "low" mode?


I guess I could ask about the cost difference in going with thicker tube. What I'm really curious about is the source of this C/V joint and if there is a viable new yoke/flange option.
 
So how thick of tubing would we find stock? Say for 1/2-ton to 1-ton driveshafts.
 
Blue85 said:
So how thick of tubing would we find stock? Say for 1/2-ton to 1-ton driveshafts.
Click to expand...

On the front there is no different between 1/2, 3/4 or 1-ton driveshafts. As far as rear I dont think there is any difference other than ujoint size based on what tranny and axle combo is in the rig. The rear shaft should be .090 wall or close to that.

Dik
 
Response:
hi. i have 3" 120 wall tubing. is your front flange a flat 4 bolt with a 3" pilot and the holes are 3" center to center. it would be 50.00 more for the thicker tube. it will ballance fine. thanks curtis. 1-801-685-0056
Click to expand...
 
These 1350 cv shaft's I see here are on the high side..
Sam Winer motors sells them for $200.:wink1:

I think they have a 100 of them in stock.
 
sandawgk5 said:
It says that it is .083 wall. I think that would twist like a pretzle the first time it touched anything. For that money I think it should be .125 atleast. Just my .02

Dik
Click to expand...
A few more facts:
-The stock front flange is for a 3R (saginaw-style) joint. 3.125" pilot and 4.25" bolt circle. There is a mating part for a 1350 C/V.
-This ebay seller (Patton) and High Angle can both build CVs to mate with the 3R flange, which is plentiful in junkyards. So if you have a 32-spline output, you don't need to buy a special flange to run a C/V.
-Patton wants $50 more to upgrade to .120 wall tubing
-The default tubing on a High Angle C/V shaft is .083
 
JK5 said:
These 1350 cv shaft's I see here are on the high side..
Sam Winer motors sells them for $200.:wink1:

I think they have a 100 of them in stock.
Click to expand...
Link? Pic? Details?

The local driveline shop quoted me that much just for the parts (without tubing, assembly or balancing).
 
JK5 said:
Thanks....Talk to John....he's the man!!!! :D

I purchased a 1350 c/v from Winers...$160.
The 1410 slip I purchased from HAD...$160.

I need to get some 1/4 wall tube...and I'll post some pics of my shaft. :wink1:
Click to expand...


1350 C/V for $160 :eek1: What does that include? I am getting ready to SYE/Flange my 241 and will be in need of a new shaft.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
1350 C/V for $160 :eek1: What does that include? I am getting ready to SYE/Flange my 241 and will be in need of a new shaft.
Click to expand...

The c/v is complete with u-joints..here's a pic with it sitting next to a 1310 c/v. (Neapco N921052)


1350cv1.jpg


I had to disassemble to drill out the flange holes...

1350cv4.jpg


The spacer needs to be removed, then machine the stock flange on the t-case to fit.

1350cv6.jpg
 
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Damn I can't see the pics from work LOL. Why is photobucket such a threat to our network LOL.

Anyway since i can't see by complete you mean complete driveshaft end to end, or just the CV assembly?
 
So $160 is just the C/V joint, right? So you have $320 without any tube or assembly.
 
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