My diesel pickup had a round electric fuel pump like the one pictured below,mounted on the rear cab mount crossmember ,about 18" above the fuel tank on the drivers side when I got it,but it was not hooked up to anything!..
The previous owner(s) butchered the dual tank wiring,took off the oem selector valve,the dash switch was missing too,and had added a manual shut off tee to switch tanks--I ditched all that crap and removed one leaking fuel tank and rigged up that electric pump after making sure it worked,to just one tank..
The pump has worked well since 2004 when I hooked it up,and I admit to doing a hasty hack job,as it was winter and I was not thrilled about lying under the truck for hours freezing...
I just ran a hot wire from the fuse box to the pump that was hot only with the key on,and didn't even add a fuse,or use a relay--the fuse I tapped into will blow if it decides to short out however...
I prefer the Facet "cube" pumps,but this round one has lasted a lot longer than I ever figured it would...
I bought an identical one at a flea market for $1 still in the package,and used it less than one year on my garden tractor when its pulse fuel pump quit in the middle of a blizzard,and the following spring it was dead,it wouldn't even click--then it got very hot!..then nothing...dead as a doornail..
I assume Ethanol killed whatever is inside it that does the pumping--a rubber bellows or diaphram probably...the Facet cube pumps use a nylon ball and a solenoid to pump fuel,and are much more durable..
One brand of pump NOT to use is "Mr. Gasket"--those suck royally,all of the ones I had tried and ones friends had all failed quickly and at $50+ they were no bargain..unfortunately that was the only brand the few stores locally had "in stock"...they are dipped in a plasti-kote type of rubbery coating and I think it makes them overheat and fail..
As for fuel pressure,on a Q-jet factory specs for a mechanical fuel pump ranges from 4-7 PSI,they will operate fine within those limits,its not imperative to have "exactly" 6 lbs or whatever on a carb..EFI is different,they require precise pressure regulation..
The previous owner(s) butchered the dual tank wiring,took off the oem selector valve,the dash switch was missing too,and had added a manual shut off tee to switch tanks--I ditched all that crap and removed one leaking fuel tank and rigged up that electric pump after making sure it worked,to just one tank..
The pump has worked well since 2004 when I hooked it up,and I admit to doing a hasty hack job,as it was winter and I was not thrilled about lying under the truck for hours freezing...
I just ran a hot wire from the fuse box to the pump that was hot only with the key on,and didn't even add a fuse,or use a relay--the fuse I tapped into will blow if it decides to short out however...
I prefer the Facet "cube" pumps,but this round one has lasted a lot longer than I ever figured it would...
I bought an identical one at a flea market for $1 still in the package,and used it less than one year on my garden tractor when its pulse fuel pump quit in the middle of a blizzard,and the following spring it was dead,it wouldn't even click--then it got very hot!..then nothing...dead as a doornail..
I assume Ethanol killed whatever is inside it that does the pumping--a rubber bellows or diaphram probably...the Facet cube pumps use a nylon ball and a solenoid to pump fuel,and are much more durable..
One brand of pump NOT to use is "Mr. Gasket"--those suck royally,all of the ones I had tried and ones friends had all failed quickly and at $50+ they were no bargain..unfortunately that was the only brand the few stores locally had "in stock"...they are dipped in a plasti-kote type of rubbery coating and I think it makes them overheat and fail..
As for fuel pressure,on a Q-jet factory specs for a mechanical fuel pump ranges from 4-7 PSI,they will operate fine within those limits,its not imperative to have "exactly" 6 lbs or whatever on a carb..EFI is different,they require precise pressure regulation..
