I recently started experiencing a problem when rolling down a window or running my stereo amp. The problem is this. My engine cuts out for a split second when I pull current to a window (the window will roll all the way down with no problem until it reaches the bottom and stops). When the window stops rolling down and I still have the button pushed down, the engine cuts out. When my stereo is really pushing tunes, the engine will cut out. I have had both the alternator and battery replaced (Interstate battery and PowerMaster Hi-Amp (170 amp)). Still I have this problem. Someone recently suggested it might be an ignition starter switch. Has anyone ever had this problem or more importantly fixed it?
CK5
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Engine Cuts Out When Pulling Electric Current to Amp or Windows, etc...
- Thread starter PWagon
- Start date
WOW, you are running way too loud a stereo..........
Seriously, it sounds like a bad connection feeding your ignition system.
Don't know what type vehicle we're talking about, but there is a feed wire somewhere that supplies power to the ignition and other accessories. Even though the battery is hot, there is a bad connection somewhere that cannot handle the load.
When you put a heavy load on it, the voltage drops below what the computer or ignition module can run on.
That connection certainly could be in the ignition switch. Not the starter part, thats working or it wouldn't crank. But the part that supplies power to the ignition.
There are usually power relays involved that turn on when you turn it to run that might have problems.
You might get lucky and find it by checking connections, post what you're driving and we may be able to suggest where to look.
Otherwise, you are going to need a voltmeter.
Seriously, it sounds like a bad connection feeding your ignition system.
Don't know what type vehicle we're talking about, but there is a feed wire somewhere that supplies power to the ignition and other accessories. Even though the battery is hot, there is a bad connection somewhere that cannot handle the load.
When you put a heavy load on it, the voltage drops below what the computer or ignition module can run on.
That connection certainly could be in the ignition switch. Not the starter part, thats working or it wouldn't crank. But the part that supplies power to the ignition.
There are usually power relays involved that turn on when you turn it to run that might have problems.
You might get lucky and find it by checking connections, post what you're driving and we may be able to suggest where to look.
Otherwise, you are going to need a voltmeter.
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
I wonder if it isnt something with a HEI distributor swapped in, and the power wire isnt hooked up correctly.
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
Ive never heard of AFF?
Did you replace the main charge wire from the alternator to the battery? Because if you have a 170A alternator and a ~14 gauge charge wire you are asking for trouble.
OK, now we're getting somewhere......
Where is the AFF kit getting its power from, and how long has it been installed?
In other words, is this a problem from the installation, or has it run fine and just now started?
First tests, crank it up, and watch for power loss signs when you hit the windows.
For instance if you have a voltmeter on the dash, see if it goes down when you load the system down.
If not, turn on the dome light and watch for it going out.
Headlights, or dash lights.
Also, does the stereo quit when you stall out the windows?
We need to see what part of the power system is going down so we can try to figure out its supply source.
If the whole system dips, then we look at the main feed.
Where is the AFF kit getting its power from, and how long has it been installed?
In other words, is this a problem from the installation, or has it run fine and just now started?
First tests, crank it up, and watch for power loss signs when you hit the windows.
For instance if you have a voltmeter on the dash, see if it goes down when you load the system down.
If not, turn on the dome light and watch for it going out.
Headlights, or dash lights.
Also, does the stereo quit when you stall out the windows?
We need to see what part of the power system is going down so we can try to figure out its supply source.
If the whole system dips, then we look at the main feed.
We had a caddy at the junkyard that ran nice,but would cut out,stutter and sometimes die when you activated a power window switch or turned the A/C or heater on--we spent days chasing wires ,found nothing wrong with any of them...
What ended up "curing" it was adding more ground wires--we ran one from the altenator to the battery negative post,another from the engine to the firewall,and last but not the least--one from the ECM case to a spot on the kick panel we sanded down nice and shiny--that was the one that made it stop...the stock GM ground under the kick panels on many cars in the 30's and 90's corrode to death when the windsheild leaks and lets water run onto the "bus bar"--its a real cheesy setup--we cut ALL the ground wires off and put all of them on a "ring" type solderless connector and used a large sheet metal screw to attach them to the steel kick panel,then sprayed them with undercoating...the car never came back,so we assumed the thing never acted up again,the driver was very anal,so I'm sure we'd have heard if it did it again!..
Of course on your truck,with so many mods done to the whole thing,it could be something different entirely...but that might help you in your diagnosis..it could be a fusible link thats half toasted or a battery cable thats got a ton of powder inside where there should be wire too,I've stripped a lot of old battery cables for copper and often found one area that had only a few strands left to carry all the current,and were FULL of white powder from corrosion..
What ended up "curing" it was adding more ground wires--we ran one from the altenator to the battery negative post,another from the engine to the firewall,and last but not the least--one from the ECM case to a spot on the kick panel we sanded down nice and shiny--that was the one that made it stop...the stock GM ground under the kick panels on many cars in the 30's and 90's corrode to death when the windsheild leaks and lets water run onto the "bus bar"--its a real cheesy setup--we cut ALL the ground wires off and put all of them on a "ring" type solderless connector and used a large sheet metal screw to attach them to the steel kick panel,then sprayed them with undercoating...the car never came back,so we assumed the thing never acted up again,the driver was very anal,so I'm sure we'd have heard if it did it again!..
Of course on your truck,with so many mods done to the whole thing,it could be something different entirely...but that might help you in your diagnosis..it could be a fusible link thats half toasted or a battery cable thats got a ton of powder inside where there should be wire too,I've stripped a lot of old battery cables for copper and often found one area that had only a few strands left to carry all the current,and were FULL of white powder from corrosion..
