Engine starts and then dies

[doublettxsniper]

87 k5 350 TBi. The engine cranks six or seven times and then finally turns over. But then dies pretty soon. I was told the fuel injectors probably needed to be cleaned. But then the next day the truck just cranked and wouldn't start at all. I talked to a mechanic and he said try the ignition control module in the distributor, so I replaced that and it started right up. After that for a couple of days you wouldn't even hear the starter turning...truck would just start right away...then the other day after the truck was running for awhile it just died. I tried starting it and it just started and died for like 20 minutes. Then it started and I had to rev at like 3000 rpm's for a couple of minutes before it didn't feel like it wanted to shutdown. But driving at first after that it hesitated and kicked real bad like if your plugs were fouled. Now it only acts like that like the first time that I start the truck...after I've been driving for a while it won't do it. Battery is good, Within the last four years I replaced all major components, water pump, radiator, starter, distributor (twice), alternator (twice), plugs and wires. Anyone have any suggestions.

 

[pauly383]

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I talked to a mechanic and he said try the ignition control module in the distributor, so I replaced that and it started right up. After that for a couple of days you wouldn't even hear the starter turning...truck would just start right away...then the other day after the truck was running for awhile it just died. I tried starting it and it just started and died fo

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So it was fixed and came back? Did you put the white heatsink compound udder module? Overtightening the module screws can cause premature failure also. Autoparts stores can check it for you. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[doublettxsniper]

yes I did put the white grease underneath it, as far as overtightening the screws..I don't believe I overtightened them but I guess that could be possible. I tightened until they wouldn't turn anymore...I can't remember if I gave them a quarter turn after that or not.

 

[pauly383]

Well if all is new , double check it all. Make sure it all is snug at every connection. Take rotor off and lightly rub the end with a file to clean and contact on top is contacting coil button, make sure no moisture is in cap. Take off the coil and make sure coil button is under rubber washer. The power wires can and will get dirty in the terminals on wiring harness side, make sure they are clean and tight. The module or another component still could go bad , have seen the pick up coil and reluctor ring go bad before. Wish ya luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[doublettxsniper]

I'll try that...pick up coil had gone bad before...on the previous distributor...I was attempting to change it when I all of a sudden then need to replace the entire distributor due to the damage I caused while trying to exchange the pick up coil.

 

[pauly383]

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entire distributor due to the damage I caused while trying to exchange the pick up coil

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Did you use a vise ? I know of a way to hold distributor if you dont. Get some thick wood, a couple 2x4's should work. Cut them into foot long lenghts and stack them . Cut a notch in it for distributor to fit down in . Put one near top, and one near end of distributor. Wood screw a piece of plumbers tape over top. Now you can hammer out roll pin . A vise works better though /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[doublettxsniper]

No I didn't use a vise but next time I'll take your advice. At any rate...took it to a shop...they couldn't figure out the problem because, of course, The Beast would not duplicate the problem with them, however, again, of course, as soon as I got it back it did it again. At any rate the suggested possibly the Ignition coil. I replaced that and nothing changed. However, I did learn that the problem is electric and not gas. Today when i started the truck I happened to glance at the voltmeter, which I dont' know why i hadn't before, but it normally runs at a hair over the line with the 13. This morning while it was going through it's fit and I glanced at the meter it went from 13 to 18 and back and forth. I'm thinking about replacing the cap and rotor for good measure.

 

[sandawgk5]

don't know if this will help but when mine did that I replaced everything and it turned out that I had an injector sticking open and it would flood unless I reved the $hit out of the motor. I got it to start by holding the gas pedal to the floor when I was cranking it I then found which one was sticking by unplugging each injector one turned off and the other kept flowing fuel. When I was limping it home it smoothed out and I haven't had a problem since however I am still waiting for it to happen again. Hope it helps its just my experience.

 

[doublettxsniper]

Well I fixed the problem. Upon replacing the cap and rotor, I see that the old cap was corroded inside...but since I have been doing most of my repairs at night I would've never have seen it. For some reason I ended up waiting until today during the day to swap the cap and rotor and when I did I saw the corrosion in the old cap. And it figures...upon startup it runs rough and wants to die, but after the cap heats up it conducts through the corrosion a bit better. /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

 

[nc87k5]

/forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif. that may be one of my problems. seems when I first crank up my truck,it'll start fine, but after running some and shutting it off, when I start it back, the truck stumbles some then cuts off. I try it again and it'll smell like it's flooded and will have to hold the accel. to the floor and it'll spit and sputter. gotta try it and see.