Epoxy over EDP - YES or NO

[ZombieK5]

I am at a stage where I need to start planning body work. I have NEW front fenders and NEW radiator support.

Both are EDP coated. If using an epoxy primer is it advised to remove EDP or scuff and spray epoxy primer??

I have 8 cans of Eastwood Epoxy Primer.

 

[Fastereddie]

I am at a stage where I need to start planning body work. I have NEW front fenders and NEW radiator support.

Both are EDP coated. If using an epoxy primer is it advised to remove EDP or scuff and spray epoxy primer??

I have 8 cans of Eastwood Epoxy Primer.

@ryoken might know that answer

 

[shady]

The edp isn't bad. I'd scuff it up and prime.

 

[ryoken]

the rule for EDP generally is, if it comes off with lacquer thinner on a rag, strip it... if not, scuff and overcoat... epoxy is a bit redundant in that case, but will work.. really a 2k would be preferable..

220 is fine and a scuff pad as needed..

 

[ZombieK5]

the rule for EDP generally is, if it comes off with lacquer thinner on a rag, strip it... if not, scuff and overcoat... epoxy is a bit redundant in that case, but will work.. really a 2k would be preferable..

220 is fine and a scuff pad as needed..

Did the lacquer test and also did brake cleaner and acetone. Nothing came off. Gonna hit it with epoxy for giggles especially since I have it and its been sitting on my shelf for 2yrs.

 

[Bigb55]

I tested the EDP coating on my patch panels as mentioned above. Then scuffed it with whatever grit was recommended for the epoxy and or urethane primer I was using.

If you're going be sanding the primer and it's going cure for a few days before topcoat, id go with a 2k urethane. Both will seal out moisture for long term corrosion resistance.

 

[ZombieK5]

I tested the EDP coating on my patch panels as mentioned above. Then scuffed it with whatever grit was recommended for the epoxy and or urethane primer I was using.

If you're going be sanding the primer and it's going cure for a few days before topcoat, id go with a 2k urethane. Both will seal out moisture for long term corrosion resistance.

I've been hearing a lot of people tell me to use the 2K urethane also. I'm looking into that right now. What I may do is use the epoxy for the inside spaces for the front fenders and doors. I have the product and might as well use it. I'll look into the 2K Urethane. What product has everyone used? I get a lot of stuff from Eastwood and generally like their stuff. Would anybody recommend using a rattle can or should I go all the way and use a paint gun, which I also have, to apply it. The paint gun is just a bitch to clean every time.

 

[Bigb55]

I used Kirker epoxy and urethane primer. Eastwood is usually just rebranded Kirker paint.

I'd use a spray gun as it will be cheaper if doing a large area over multiple coats.

Epoxy is great over bare etched metal. Urethane is great over older 2k paint that's been prepped.

But both will work just fine as a primer. Both will seal out moisture and O2 to prevent rust.

Epoxy is softer so is best topcoated before it cures as sanding epoxy can be difficult.

I used urethane primer on my '74 panels then topcoated with 2k urethane paint. I used epoxy primer for any patch panels that were sanded to bare metal. It's held up for two years just fine.

On my '93 I used epoxy primer over all the factory 2k urethane. Then top coated with 2k urethane color and clear

Reasoning behind using epoxy on the '93? I could get good coverage with less mil thickness and epoxy mechanically adheres strongly with proper prep. Then topcoating it before it cured made a nice smooth finish.

Both are tough as nails and have great adhesion.

With enough sanding prep both will work

 

[jimmyleetn]

I would call Eastwood and ask them. I've done this before and they're actually very helpful. I think epoxy will coat that EDP just fine, but a simple phone call Monday and you'll have a definite answer. I've used the rattle can epoxy from them, follow the directions to "T". Did you buy they're newest stuff or the ones with the bladder you have to pierce in the bottom of the can to activate?

 

[ZombieK5]

I would call Eastwood and ask them. I've done this before and they're actually very helpful. I think epoxy will coat that EDP just fine, but a simple phone call Monday and you'll have a definite answer. I've used the rattle can epoxy from them, follow the directions to "T". Did you buy they're newest stuff or the ones with the bladder you have to pierce in the bottom of the can to activate?

I have cans of the type that pierce the bottom...whats the difference and pros/cons

 

[jimmyleetn]

The pros for your cans with the pierceable bladder is that the paint lays out nicely. The cons however are that you have a very short pot life. Once you pierce the bladder you only have 24 or 48 hours (can't remember) to use the can or it will dry inside the can. I have used both products and I have found that the kind you have sprays much better but it does not like being tilted and sprays best straight ahead. If you try to spray overhead or down on something you could have splattering. Keep shaking it periodically as you use it. You cannot shake that paint too much. I actually bought extra spray nozzles since some of mine would clogg between coats. You might keep some lacquer thinner close by to soak the spray nozzles if you experience the same problem. If you take a look back in my build it's what I used to paint both my axles and axle covers.

The newer stuff they make has unlimited pot life and doesn't seem to clog as much but doesn't lay out as nice.