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EZ wiring kit. My electrical thread. Got it

original balzer

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So the light switch wiring had been raped by the previous owner.
I was trying to fix it and was going to swap fuze block from the 83. Then figured I would salvage what I needed from the crew cab that I had already removed the wiring from. I took me about 2 hours to separate the light harness from the rest of it. Then I realised it would take that much work to find what is left of the harness in my 77. And then theres the fact that once I got the dash and gauge cluster out I seen there are about a million butt connectors and various other hamfisted wiring jobs.

So I threw my hands in the air and said fock it and came in and ordered the 21 circut kit from EZ wiring. I really dont have the money to spare right now but it HAS to be done and im sick of fixing the crap the previous owner left me.
 
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I used an EZ wiring kit. Sort it out into bundles, and get everything laid out before making a single connection. Also remember that wiring for things like HVAC controls aren't included. Neither is wiring for speakers.
 
Rod and customs write up on using EZ's kit. Not required info per say but everything helps right?

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0908rc_ez_wiring_harness/index.html

I will post up any wiring related info in this thread mainly for myself but maybe it will help someone else later as well.

I will also do my best to detail my rewire in a sort of write up of my own.

Also feel free to add any tips tricks or small projects to this thread.
 
I am planning on using the same kit when I get to that point with my 86, for the money and the features seems like a great deal. :D
 
I really didnt need the 21 circut, the 12 would have done me fine. This way I can add power wndows and locks later, should I so choose. I will add AC later for sure.

But $170 for the 12 and $185 for the 21 it just makes sence to upgrade for $15.
 
But $170 for the 12 and $185 for the 21 it just makes sence to upgrade for $15

My thoughts exactly, I won't need them all either, but , with electric fans, fuel pump and extra lights the end product should be alot cleaner.
 
I ordered/installed the 21 circuit in my '73, and only used about a 3rd of it b/c everything is manual/barebones on my truck. But it's a lot of extra fused circuits for anything I might want to add on.
 
I used it, but will have to order either another different wiring harness or some more wire from them. They say that there is enough wire included for a truck with an 8 foot bed, but it was short by about a foot for me using their 21 circuit wiring harness.
 
Ya I just made it (short like 2 inches) on my 74 k20 w/ crew cab cab (that was ackward to type).

I am a complete noob when it comes to electical crap, and in about 2 weekends had it done. Just make sure you pay attention to the wires you pull out (not that you don't already know that). B/c there are no speaker or a/c connection stuff included. Wipers might get a little hairy too at least it did w/ mine. Had like 6 stock wires on the wiper motor but only one w/ the harness.

Oh it helps to have lots of heat shrink, wire loom, and connectors. As obvious as it seems I never seem to have enough.
 
How does it compare to Centech or Painless harness's ?

A fraction of the cost of painless or ron francis havent checked centech

you can get it color coded or all black either way the wires are labeled evey 5" and they give you GM conections at no extra charge.

I have herd that the wire is lesser quality than some of the more expencive brands. But pretty much any modern wire is better than the crustly 30 year old wire in a lot of our trucks. So I kinda doubt the wire is such low quality, as to cause concern. Beside that my crusty 30+ year old wire is hacked and spliced and tangled to the point that almost anything will be better.

I havent recived mine yet but I will include lots of pics.
 
A fraction of the cost of painless or ron francis havent checked centech

you can get it color coded or all black either way the wires are labeled evey 5" and they give you GM conections at no extra charge.

I have herd that the wire is lesser quality than some of the more expencive brands. But pretty much any modern wire is better than the crustly 30 year old wire in a lot of our trucks. So I kinda doubt the wire is such low quality, as to cause concern. Beside that my crusty 30+ year old wire is hacked and spliced and tangled to the point that almost anything will be better.

I havent recived mine yet but I will include lots of pics.
Cool. I'll be waiting for the pics. I am thinking about going this same route. I had completley rewired my old CJ (sold it last fall), with a Centech harness. I completley rewired my 70 Bronco (sold 8-10 years ago), with a painless kit. It wasn't painless because I got one of the kits from before they labled the wires every 6 inches. The centech kit for the Jeep was about $100.00 more than the Painless kit in 2001, but the quality was well worth the money over the Painless. You're definitley right about the EZ-Wire that it has to be better than the 30+ year old crusty $hit in our trucks now. HA HA HA HA Besides that the PO cut my tailight wires out all the way up to the firewall.:doah::doah: What else can you do :haha::haha::haha:
 
Wiring hack jobs is the reason I most often want a "previous owner seaking missle". Someone on this board came up with that, unfortunatly I cant remember who, sorry.

When I got my 77 the PO had it wired so the headlights came on with the key. rying to fix tha I found that he had cut all of the headlight harness out including the conector. Then he rewired it using all light blue wire and spade conectors. I have yet to find the tail light wire. since I have owned the truck the tail lights have have run off a jump wire from the left front fender marker light. Both tapped in outside the firewall. It blows fuzes all the time.
 
OK the kit from EZ showed up today...............

WOAH! thats a lot of wire!

Since I just woke up (im on night shifts) its completely overwelming for my feable brain right now.

pic soon
 
I have also ordered non insulated butt connectors, adheasive heat shrink, 10 relays with sockets, wire loom, gromets, and several other assorted items to aid in this project. That stuff hasnt arived yet.

I would like to do relays for the head lights, im going to add about 6 tractor flood lights as rock/backup lights on 3 relays still leaves me a few to play with add other stuff.

I want to do some sort of waterproof box under the hood for all the relays to go in. I need to get a second battery and put my big 00 batt cables back in. I have the underdrive starter and still need to get the 140 amp alt.

Anyway heres the kit.
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0824091503b_224341.jpg
 
Have you thought about relocating the fuse block to some where it's easier to get to? I hate cramming my fat ass in the driver's side floor every time I need to check something on it.:crazy:
 
Have you thought about relocating the fuse block to some where it's easier to get to? I hate cramming my fat ass in the driver's side floor every time I need to check something on it.:crazy:

I have been thinking about that, trouble is I have no idea where I would put it. Easy to get to yet out of the way, just isnt that easy in a reg cab truck. I thought about behind the seat on the back wall but that would mean running everything to the front somehow. SO in the end it will probably go in the stock location.
 
are you keeping up with costs? i would like to know a total cost when all is done...if you dont mind sharing!:D
 
It still has to be cheaper than what I paid for a Centech wiring kit for my CJ I had.
 
I seriously considered planing my fuse panel centered on the dash when I wired my truck. Your toughest limit with wire length is going to be to the column. Without extending a lot of wires, where you can place the fuse panel is limited by how far from the column it is.
 
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