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Factory replacement floor for '86 K5

You wont find NOS parts easily.. ESPECIALLY floor pans...

Metrodps is the only one I've seen come across one in ages...
 
ryoken said:
You wont find NOS parts easily.. ESPECIALLY floor pans...

Metrodps is the only one I've seen come across one in ages...
Click to expand...

Well, Metrodps is one lucky son of a gun... I figure I'd rather replace the thing as a whole.

By the way, do you know if anyone is going to write up Phase II of the floor replacement in the tech artice section? I'm not scared to do it with some help, but my main concern is keeping everything aligned so the body doesn't shift while the rear floor is out.
 
As long as the tailpan and body mounts are in position, you'll be fine...

I'm about to redo the whole floor, cab supports, sliders, tunnel, etc in a couple weeks... But I'm going with 14g sheetsteel and 2" x 4" for cab supports/sliders... I'm also doing new qrters, but those will be done first to maintain integrity...

the aftermarket rear cargo sheetmetal isn't too bad, but the fronts leave alot to be desired...

I doubt you'll see an update to that article, it's old... Tho I'll be doing a thorough writeup on my custom gig in my build thread...
 
ryoken said:
As long as the tailpan and body mounts are in position, you'll be fine...

I'm about to redo the whole floor, cab supports, sliders, tunnel, etc in a couple weeks... But I'm going with 14g sheetsteel and 2" x 4" for cab supports/sliders... I'm also doing new qrters, but those will be done first to maintain integrity...

the aftermarket rear cargo sheetmetal isn't too bad, but the fronts leave alot to be desired...
Click to expand...

Yeah, but aren't the body mounts part of the floor? My tailpan is rusted too on the top where it meets the rear floor. That's why I'm concerned.
 
do the tailpan first... once thats in (you can hack out the back 6" or so of the floor to facilitate that), have at the rest of the floor..

the only mounts that attach to the floor are the second set up from the back. if you put the tailpan in first, you can have those out without issue...
 
ryoken said:
do the tailpan first... once thats in (you can hack out the back 6" or so of the floor to facilitate that), have at the rest of the floor..

the only mounts that attach to the floor are the second set up from the back. if you put the tailpan in first, you can have those out without issue...
Click to expand...

Cool... also, would it be unwise to cut a good floor from an unrusted parts K5 or just buy non-OEM panels.

BTW, I did find an OEM panel, but it's far away with no shipping, and more than I can spend right now.
 
well, if you found a used tub with that good a floor/tailpan, etc, I'd just do a tub swap... blast it, epoxy prime, etc...

I'm going my route because I think I can improve on what GM did...
 
ryoken said:
well, if you found a used tub with that good a floor/tailpan, etc, I'd just do a tub swap... blast it, epoxy prime, etc...

I'm going my route because I think I can improve on what GM did...
Click to expand...

I wish... I don't have the room for that, nor the equipment to lift the body off the frame... Well, I take that back. If it were stripped down to nothing, and I meaning *nothing* except the tub, how many dudes would it take to lift it off one frame and move it over to another?
 
Well, I've done em by myself.. sawhorses, floorjack, etc, roll one frame out, roll the other under.. kinda slow, but doable...

But for physically lifting one, 4 guys could do it pretty easy I'd say...
 
ryoken said:
Well, I've done em by myself.. sawhorses, floorjack, etc, roll one frame out, roll the other under.. kinda slow, but doable...

But for physically lifting one, 4 guys could do it pretty easy I'd say...
Click to expand...

Interesting... Well, that'd work I guess. I thought about putting heavy grade eye bolts in the bed rails where the top bolts down, and lifting it using all of them with rope and a forklift or something...never gave it too much thought.

If this guy down the road is willing to let me cut the floor and rear pan from the one he's parting out, I *might* just try that. I'd make sure to cut extra to give myself some wiggle room though.

Still, I wish I knew the best way to get the OEM replacement from Ohio down to Georgia.
 
Hey Ryoken how thick of steel are you going to use on yours? I should do my drivers side and was thinking 16~18 gauge.....
George
 
replacement floor--new thought...

Hmm... A couple of things you said sunk in, and now I think I'm going about this all wrong.

ryoken said:
But I'm going with 14g sheetsteel and 2" x 4" for cab supports/sliders...
Click to expand...
and...

ryoken said:
well, if you found a used tub with that good a floor/tailpan, etc, I'd just do a tub swap... blast it, epoxy prime, etc...

I'm going my route because I think I can improve on what GM did...
Click to expand...
I went out to the garage, sat in the K5 seat (on the floor) and stared at the truck for a while, occasionally getting up to look at it...just thought about it. Really, an OEM floor wouldn't be my best option, but it would probably be the most expensive. In fact I probably wouldn't even like it much. I don't like the ribs in the floor, nor do I need to mount the rear bench back in there (I hate the holes in the floor). I'd much prefer a flat smooth floor coated with a textured bedliner.

So I think a 14ga steel floor with bracing underneath would be much better. I could replace the tailpan, and support the body from underneath the pan with jackstands to keep everything aligned while I welded in the new sheet metal.
 
smalltruckbigcid said:
Hey Ryoken how thick of steel are you going to use on yours? I should do my drivers side and was thinking 16~18 gauge.....
George
Click to expand...

well, one thing everyone needs to keep in mind is the factory panels having all kinds of bends, corrugation, etc which really adds rigidity to their panels...

I was originally gonna do the whole thing in 1/8".... But after taking a peek at my bud's steel pile, I determined 14g was gonna be fine... The weight dif between 1/8 and 14g was pretty substantial..

iirc, factory is 18.... if I was gonna just redo a whole front section, I'd probably go 16, just to be safe... 18 without the bends would more than likely give you some flexing due to the seat... Would probably be ok, but the 16 would be that much beefier...
 
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jonrpick said:
I don't like the ribs in the floor, nor do I need to mount the rear bench back in there (I hate the holes in the floor). I'd much prefer a flat smooth floor coated with a textured bedliner.
Click to expand...

yup, that was my thinking...

The rear cargo area's critical point and strength come from the tailpan.. That is what holds the qrter panels up at their proper height...

Being that I'm doing the whole floor, including new trans tunnel, 2" x 4" cab supports and sliders, I'm actually bringing the rear cargo area forward 6" or so closer to the back of the front seats..

1 - More sleeping area when camping, hauling capabilty, etc...

2 - I have no need for "feet space" cuz I'm not running a backseat

3 - it will eliminate that goofy down, channel support under the cab that rots out all the time

4 - will give a much cleaner install at the interior B-pillar area (my original reasoning behind the move)

5 - give me a little more space for cats and mufflers

Got a few trick ideas for the trans tunnel too.... :wink1: All new config, removable, etc...
 
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jonrpick said:
I searched on the part # (15571692) but can't find it anywhere.
Click to expand...

Try partsvoice.com, they search participating dealers inventory (about 3/4 of the dealers in the US are participating).
It's down this weekend for maint. though.
I've found tons of NOS parts through there.
It'll give you the names and number of the dealers that have it, if any, and you'll have to call and arrange shipping and pay by credit card.

If the dealer isn't close though, your going to pay alot for shipping a part like that.
 
ryoken said:
yup, that was my thinking...

The rear cargo area's critical point and strength come from the tailpan.. That is what holds the qrter panels up at their proper height...

Being that I'm doing the whole floor, including new trans tunnel, 2" x 4" cab supports and sliders, I'm actually bringing the rear cargo area forward 6" or so closer to the back of the front seats..

1 - More sleeping area when camping, hauling capabilty, etc...

2 - I have no need for "feet space" cuz I'm not running a backseat

3 - it will eliminate that goofy down, channel support under the cab that rots out all the time

4 - will give a much cleaner install at the interior B-pillar area (my original reasoning behind the move)

5 - give me a little more space for cats and mufflers

Got a few trick ideas for the trans tunnel too.... :wink1: All new config, removable, etc...
Click to expand...

Hmm...very cool ideas, Man. I wish I had the tools or more importantly the knowledge to do some metal fab work. I'd be doing all kinds of stuff if I did. For now, just getting the floor cut out and replaced will be difficult enough. I am a little worried now since reading the posts and remembering that the ribbing adds so much strength to the floor. I suppose I could just add more bracing if and when I change the floor out to a flat one.

Thanks,
 
sure, some 1" square or angle strategically place would stiffen up anything you needed...
 
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