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Few questions (mostly suspension) from a newb

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aeronautica86

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Hi everyone, I'm new here and looking to buy an '89 - '91 k5. My only cars have been my 944 and now a 944 turbo, so I've got pretty much zero experience with 4x4 trucks. Now I need a vehicle with room for four people, enough room for their stuff and of course 4wd. In all honesty, most of this trucks miles are going to be highway/around town, and some off road duty (1-2 weekends per month) - I won't be doing any hardcore off roading or rock hopping etc, but I do need something that can go where my 944 can't.

Now onto the questions - 1. Right now I'm thinking I want to go with a 4" suspension lift with 35" tires and some minor fender trimming if necessary. Do yall think this would be a good setup for my usage? What parts will be necessary for this kind of lift or what kit should I go with?

2. What other mods would be needed to accomplish any of the above? What would I need to do with the brakes, transfer cases, gears, driveshaft, any sort of suspension geometry correction stuff, shocks etc? I want to do this the right way and so that I won't have to worry too much about something breaking when I'm out on the trail (I know there are no guarantees).

3. This question isn't all that crucial, but I've noticed in alot of pics of stock or close to stock blazers that the wheels/tires are kind of tucked in the fenders, and on some modified ones, the wheels/tires stick out from the fenders a bit. Is this look accomplished simply by buying wider wheels and going with something like a 35/12.5 or do you have to use spacers or different wheel offsets?

Thanks in advance guys and I look forward to learning alot here!
 
1. 4" with 35's would require some trimming, but shouldn't be too extreme. For your usage you might find that it really draws the fuel through the lines a little faster than you think. So that is something to consider.

2. Adjustment of the sway bar, steering, many kits come with shocks.

3. Most of them are being done with different backspacing on the wheels. My 33's are tucked under the fenders really nice, others use more backspacing to push the wheels out of the fenders.
 
Well for your intended useage , I would really keep it simple . Hell , I might even reccomend a newer Tahoe for extra cargo room .

If yo do go for the Blazer . A simple 4 inch lift , some 33-35 inch tires , a hi lift jack , a few tools , and some spare u-joints would fit the bill nicely for what you plan on actually doing .

Actually a stock truck would fit the bill for what you plan on doing .

Can always go extreme when that 4 wheeling bug bites you after the first trip out :wink1:
 
Thanks for the replies thus far guys. As for keeping it stock, the lift/wheels/tires are for aesthetic purposes as much as anything.

Do yall think that changing gears would be necessary? Or if not necessary, what would be the main advantages of changing the gears?

I've been looking at lift kits on 4wheelparts and have noticed that all of the 4" lift kits have springs for the front, but blocks for the rear. Wouldn't it be best to get a 4" spring for the rear as well?

If I do buy 4" leaf springs for both the front and rear, what other pieces do I need to complete the lift kit (do I need u-bolt kits or degree shims)? I would plan on doing shocks as well at the same time.

Also, any benefit to going with dual shock brackets or a steering stabilizer kit?
 
The aesethetic effect is going to hurt you on the road $3.++ a gallon. As Pauly stated a stock K5 would probably do everything you want, at first.

Changing gears would be an option, but it would be an expensive one unless you can do the work yourself.

4" lift..blocks are a big no no on CK5, either go all springs or look at DIY4x or OffRoad Design for their shackle flip kits. Although, with the mild trails you will be doing blocks are cheap and easy. Yes you will need new U-bolts they should come with the kit, if not they can be made by a local shop. Check in the classified area on here, there are usually kits like what you are looking for albeit in pieces.

The perception on CK5 as to dual shocks/stabalizer mounts are that they tend to hide a steering problem(steering stab.), dual shocks serve no real purpose other than some people think they look cool.
 
As far as what you are looking for, 33" aggressive tires would be plenty IMO. If you check the tire fitment page in the tech articles, it states you can run a 34" tire with minor fender trimming. I say get some zero rates from ORD or just trim the corners of your fenders and you'll be in business. I drive a burb running 33" Pro Comp mudders and have no prob with rubbing and I have been in some pretty nasty places. Just fine for fishing holes, camping spots, hunting lease, and where ever else I have been. I do have a lift waiting to be put in my burb but I plan on going 38.5 or bigger.

Good luck on your build.

Oh, you might even look at some add-a-leaves for 2 inches. I dunno. Have fun with it though.
 
Take a look at the "how would my truck look on XX tires" thread. 33's look good IMO and would get the job done for your intended use.
 
A 4" lift and 35s will look real nice though. Done right it will extend the capabilitys of your truck quite a bit. It seems to be that Tuff country ez rides and BDS springs are the spring of choice. Shackle flip in the back would be nice to have as it helps with articulation.

Gearing would be good to do.

You can do everything on the cheap by watching e-bay and the classifieds on this website, it will take a while but used stuff comes up quite a bit.
 
great info guys, I appreciate the advice;

I spent a few hours going through the entire "how would my truck look with xx tires" thread, and yeah the 33s with maybe a small lift looks really nice too, I just originally figured if I'm gonna do a small lift and 33s then a bigger lift and 35s probably wouldn't be that much more expensive assuming I don't have to change alot more ancillary parts in order for the 4" lift and 35s to work. But choosing a smaller lift and 33s may be everything I need and a bit cheaper so its something I'll look into as well.

I'm planning on doing all the work myself and picking up at least some of the parts used, so hopefully it won't cost too much

what kind of gearing change would be good for 33" or 35" tires?
 
I doubt you need to change anything with 33s. Not sure about 35s though. Not my area of expertest (sp)

If you are new to the 4x4 scene I would suggest getting a Hi lift jack, a good recovery strap (no hooks), and 2 medium duty chains. Read up on proper Hi lift usage and techniques. (this is not all you need but it makes a world of difference). For a long time this was my only means of self recovery because I didn't want to spend the $$$ on a winch. I am not sure about the others but I NEVER use a chain to jerk someone out of anything. Use the strap. It's safer and not so rough on yourself or your rig.
 
aeronautica86 said:
Do yall think that changing gears would be necessary? Or if not necessary, what would be the main advantages of changing the gears?
Click to expand...

The easiest thing to do would be look for a k5 decent gears stock, then you wouldn't be in the hole as much to begin with. I believe you can find them with 3.73s stock esp in the '89-91s. My '91 burb has 3.73s with 285/75/R16 (roughly 33s) and it's not too much of a dog and it weigh a lot more than a k5.

Another thought. There are tons of k5s out there already modified to what you want. You could probably save money by buying one that already has the lift and tires you want, but I understand if you'd rather do it yourself, since that's what I wanted.

BTW, with 4" you'll need brake lines, swaybar correction, and you may even have to drop your tcase if you end up with driveline vibes, but most people don't have to.

Almost forgot, the way the tires look tucked in or stick out is a product of offset (which is a product of wheel width and backspacing). Zero offset or positive offset=tucked in. Negative offset=wider stance
 
I have looked at alot of k5s that are already modified, and that would definately be a good way to save some money; my only problem with that is that alot of the lifted ones seem to be done with blocks in the rear and I'd really prefer to do it right with springs, so my main motivation for wanting to buy a stock one would be to ensure that its built the right way, but if I find one built just like I want it, then I'd definately be interested.

What all is entailed in swaybar correction?
 
You can either buy a disconnect/correction kit from ORD or a correction kit from somewhere else (4wheelparts lists them). I never actually ran one when I lifted my '87 4" and I haven't put the one I bought for my '91 burb I lifted a couple weeks ago on yet. I didn't know they existed when I did my '87. But it is one of those things you are "suppose" to do. I'm not sure how much difference it makes in handling. From what I understand it lowers the swaybar so it's back where it's suppose to be after the lift. I'll post up on my build thread) after I install mine and report on the difference (if there is any), but you could probably find more info if you searched for it.

Also, the ORD kit lets you disconnect it for offroad, since it limits your articulation, then reconnect it for road manners. Some guys just take their off and throw it away though.

BTW, getting a membership on coloradoK5 is probably the best investment you'll ever make if your really planning to buy a k5. You'll have access to a ton of info and this is a great place to start out as a noob and end up knowing everything you ever wanted to know and more about you rig.
 
I hadn't even realized that this site has a membership option; I don't doubt that the membership is worth every penny - I'm also very active on a large tech forum that deals with all types of porsches and I've learned countless things about 944s etc there and know the benefits of supporting such a site (hence why I'm a paid member there). So now I'm a supporting member here too.

Another question, I went to the ORD site and looked at their rear shackle flip kit. What is the general consensus here about using a kit like that vs going with new lift springs? It seems that the old stock springs might need replacement by now.

I'm kinda confused about springs for 4x4 trucks though - my only experience with suspension stuff is on sports cars and in that realm, I like pretty stiff springs to help keep the car glued to the road. In off roading do you want soft springs or stiff springs or does it not matter that much?

Big Blzn, your truck looks really nice, I think I really like the look of a 4" lift and 35s. How far do the wheels/tires stick out from the fenders? Also, any idea how tall the truck is at the top of the windshield?
 
Look at it like this if you are on a bumpy track you may want a slightly lower spring rate to help keep all the tires on the ground hence mantaining traction. Off road trucks want to keep all the wheels in contact with the ground to do the same thing mantain traction.

A smooth ride on and off road will make your expirence more enjoyable. Its just easier on everything, the driver included

The shackle flip does more than just lift the truck it helps with pinion angle and usually helps the spring move more freely. As long as the spring is not broke or obviously sagging it should be fine to use
 
The shackle flip is a great option. It lets you avoid blocks, which can cause axle wrap, as well as lift springs which usually ride rougher than stock. You get more flex off road and a less jarring ride on the road. I just did mine a week and a half ago. There is a ton of info about them if you search. They are a bigger pain to install than new springs or block, but worth the trouble, IMO. You may need to run shims with them since you'll have a slip yoke rear driveshaft (stock on '89-'91 k5s) and want to keep the rear pinion angle parrallel with the transfer case output. There a crapload of info on that, too, if you search a little or ask more specific questions.
 
aeronautica86 said:
I hadn't even realized that this site has a membership option; I don't doubt that the membership is worth every penny - I'm also very active on a large tech forum that deals with all types of porsches and I've learned countless things about 944s etc there and know the benefits of supporting such a site (hence why I'm a paid member there). So now I'm a supporting member here too.

Another question, I went to the ORD site and looked at their rear shackle flip kit. What is the general consensus here about using a kit like that vs going with new lift springs? It seems that the old stock springs might need replacement by now.

I'm kinda confused about springs for 4x4 trucks though - my only experience with suspension stuff is on sports cars and in that realm, I like pretty stiff springs to help keep the car glued to the road. In off roading do you want soft springs or stiff springs or does it not matter that much?

Big Blzn, your truck looks really nice, I think I really like the look of a 4" lift and 35s. How far do the wheels/tires stick out from the fenders? Also, any idea how tall the truck is at the top of the windshield?
Click to expand...

Hey, thanks. The wheels/tires don't stick out any further than my old 33"s because they are still 12.5". The rear tires are about even with the fenders and the front is the typical wider track at about 1.5"s or so past the fender wells.

I'm still pretty much a noob on some automotive mechanical aptitude but have learned tons on ck5. What I'm getting at is that maybe to save a little money up front you might look at buying a near stock k5 and do many of the mods yourself. It seems that most of the mods you would like to have on your k5 can be done by most people with basic mechanical knowlege and tools and what they are not sure of they can get plenty of help here. Just a thought. Good luck and keep us posted.
Hoby
 
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