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Finally hit a snag with the D60 buildup...

fortcollinsram

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Well I was kicking butt on the D60 rebuild untill I threw the 1.5" ORD tie rod on and checked for diff cover clearance... Well, the rod clears the stock cover but hits my Crane diff cover just before full right lock. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

Do you guys think I should take a grinder to the cover for a bit of extra clearance (only need like 3/32" to make it clear) or should I just adjust the lock-stops on the knuckle to prevent it?


I am kinda leaning towards for several reasons:

-The cover is nicely powder coated (don't know why I did this, because the rest of my truck looks like sh!t)
-don't wanna make a beefy cover thinner


what are your thoughts...

Chris
 
can you take that 3/32 off the tie rod? which of the 2 can stand to lode that minute amout more /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
let it rub long enuff and it will split the differance for ya!!! /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

Sorry not being very help full am i? i'll shut up now. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
If the flange of the diff cover is thick enough you might be able to grind some off there. Or you might be able to comprimise and take a little from the tie rod, cover face and cover flange OR take some off of the cover flange and adjust the lock-stops a little. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

If it was mine I would go with the last option if the first option failed.
 
I put the same tie rod on a month or two ago. Hey, you need ALL the steering you can get from your rig. I would not adjust the stops to limit tie rod rub. I hate to break your heart, but I would go with the stock diff cover.

Just my 2/100th's of a dollar.
 
would changing to a higher mount tierod dodge knuckle help that?
 
Can you say Hysteer /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Are you running a gasket between the cover and diff? If so take it out. That will gain you a little clearence. The flange on that cover is probably pretty thick, and as long as there would be no ring gear interference you might have it machined down a little.

Last ditch would be grind the cover. DO NOT grind the tierod. That creates a weak point in it. I wouldn't adjust the steering stops either. You would be killing part of the point of crossover steering. You will loose some of the steering radius you gained from going to crossover.

Harley
 
Thats what I was gonna say, HI Steer. But of the two choices on grinding, I think I'd grind the diff cover.
 
i would put a block of wood between the cover and a hammer(so as to not mess up your powder coat) and "massage"it a little bit /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Your not going to "massage" a Crane cover. I think it is like 3/8 or 1/2 thick. They are BEEF covers designed to slam into rocks all day every day. The only thing that will get massaged is you ego & arm.

Harley
 
[ QUOTE ]
i would put a block of wood between the cover and a hammer(so as to not mess up your powder coat) and "massage"it a little bit /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, you will not be clearancing the diff cover with a hammer at all, at least not with a hand held hammer...a pneumatic jack hammer on our Bobcat 873 might do something, but I digress....

There is NOT gasket on the cover...just RightStuff sealant...I think I am going to run it like it is and break in the gears and when I pull the cover to change the fluid, I will take it to a machine shop and see if they can fly-cut the flange like .060". I am sure it doesn't help that the dude that powder coated the cover put a nice thick coat on the cover flange...

Chris
 
Id run it, worst thing that can happen is something will break. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif Hell my tie rod hits the diffcover when I bash it on something.
 
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