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First Attempt 71 rebuild: running again!

yeah the photobucket sounds like a good idea. I'll get to that at some point perhaps. The panels I have are actually LMC panels, and yes they did kinda suck. They were slightly different sized so the when you lined them up the first few ribs looked like they lined up nice, but around the 5th rib it was starting to get skewed, so it ended up resulting in a lot more cutting and welding of smaller modified patches than I would have liked to do, but I wasn't going to bother sending back the panels etc so I made due, but thats good to know of the places you listed to use for the future. And yeah grinding down all those welds sucked really hard haha.

I got the butt weld clamps from eastwood.com
 
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Body Not aligning. Door stuck closed.

Having some concerns with the body alignment. The drivers side door is pinched closed with the new body mounts in place and won't open. The cross sills I put in also didnt have recesses cut into them (the #3 mount location) like I saw in a picture of another members 1972 k5, however, the old ones I pulled off did not have a recess cut into them either, but I don't believe they had been replaced either. Is there a difference between the 71 and 72 cross sills?

It is pinching on the top right area of the door. Because there were no actual original mounts being used, only the previously pictured hockey pucks, I don't know where to put the shims to get this to level out. Which mounts should I shim to level out the body and give the proper spaced gaps?
 
and you are referring to that numbering being based on #1 in the foot well and not the rad support right?
 
If the door is too tight at the top. Throw some shims in the #1 (footwell area) and #2 the first ones behind the back of the seat.

I even used some simpson framing plate square washers on mine. Seemed to work out well. No matter what, you probably won't get it perfect off the bat. Just play with the shims here and there and you'll get it.

How are your rocker box's though. If those are toast, it really won't matter what you do, until you replace those.
 
NorCal69 said:
If the door is too tight at the top. Throw some shims in the #1 (footwell area) and #2 the first ones behind the back of the seat.

I even used some simpson framing plate square washers on mine. Seemed to work out well. No matter what, you probably won't get it perfect off the bat. Just play with the shims here and there and you'll get it.

How are your rocker box's though. If those are toast, it really won't matter what you do, until you replace those.
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Haha....there are no boxes.... completely gone. the top is on though and I'm not taking it off until i put them in. They are next on my list once i'm done with the bed. The doors used to both open and close okay before i put in the new mounts. I figured I need to get the doors spaces lined up right though before I put my new torsion boxes back in so they'll hold it all in the right place ya know?
 
Well that's kinda neat. At least you can see what you're already getting into. How is the front cab support, inner and outer rocker, footwell, kickpanel, four bolt area, bottom of the B post and so on? You'll want to really take a look at all of those areas before you weld the box area closed.
 
cwalton said:
and you are referring to that numbering being based on #1 in the foot well and not the rad support right?
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No, the assembly manual refers to #1 being the radiator support so #2 is the footwell and #3 is right behind the front seats.
 
NorCal69 said:
Well that's kinda neat. At least you can see what you're already getting into. How is the front cab support, inner and outer rocker, footwell, kickpanel, four bolt area, bottom of the B post and so on? You'll want to really take a look at all of those areas before you weld the box area closed.
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I already got the parts for footwell patch, inner outer rockers, lower pillars etc, i'm going to be tackling it all at once. They are all in pretty rough shape.
 
bp71k5 said:
No, the assembly manual refers to #1 being the radiator support so #2 is the footwell and #3 is right behind the front seats.
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Huh? That's what I thought it was in the beginning, then I think VT changed my whole way of thinking about them. I always wondered why they just didn't call the rad #1.

I dun learnt a cuple nuw things tuday.. :D



Edit: I thought that it was VT that got me thinking that. This link might help you out when you start the cutting too. I know that I took a lot of measurements off it.

http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/vtblazer/K5 Measurements/
 
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NorCal69 said:
Huh? That's what I thought it was in the beginning, then I think VT changed my whole way of thinking about them. I always wondered why they just didn't call the rad #1.]
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336711924.301187.jpg

Looks like I'm the one learning today. I must have done the same thing you did, but then second guessed my previous thought.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336711924.301187.jpg
 
Brian,

Your sideways drawing is offending me and hurting my neck! :D

BodyMountShimLocations.jpg


And another that might be necessary...

DoorGapDrawing.jpg



Sooner or later, every 1st Gen owner should own a copy of the Factory Assembly Manual.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
Sooner or later, every 1st Gen owner should own a copy of the Factory Assembly Manual.


-G
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I think that a lot of us have them. Were just waiting for someone to cut the binding, drop the pages on the floor and when they pick them up, actually organize them so the book is in order. The way it is now, it makes about as much sense as the bolt bushing numbers. :doah:
 
NorCal69 said:
I think that a lot of us have them. Were just waiting for someone to cut the binding, drop the pages on the floor and when they pick them up, actually organize them so the book is in order. The way it is now, it makes about as much sense as the bolt bushing numbers. :doah:
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Yeah, that has always driven me nuts. It takes an hour to find the page you're looking for:haha:
 
norcal69 said:
i think that a lot of us have them. Were just waiting for someone to cut the binding, drop the pages on the floor and when they pick them up, actually organize them so the book is in order. The way it is now, it makes about as much sense as the bolt bushing numbers. :doah:
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yes!
 
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