I agree
CK5
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First Gen, all hardware no software
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
So I bought this '70 K5 and fell in the rabbit hole ever since. It was tired, a victim of someone's "perfume on a pig" restoration. Original 350/350.Paint is nice.
I used all high quality fittings from Eaton. It's a 1.24 nipple to 45deg brass fitting all 1/8"npt. I think the bnt/British national thread vdo thread may be a little different from the 1/8npt fitting it was in but very close
Hence Bent .77”
It’s bent more than that
@SpeedlabDan cross humping American and British parts may be your malfunction.
I got pissed at some of that stuff once and went all AN
The vdo sender Im assuming is metric but it fits really well...
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
What's your Cam setting?
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Have you ever switched it? What's your vacuum at idle (this helps determine the cam selection)? I figure a stroked 383 would have a lower vacuum and thus need the higher cam setting. I have my sbc 400 at cam 3 and it seems to like it.
From this page: https://fitechefi.com/fitech-efi-basic-setup-instructions/
Choosing a cam selection:
Cam selection is based on vacuum load of the engine. Cam 1 is for 15Hg or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg to 10Hg, Cam 4 is 8Hg to 6Hg. These are estimates and you may need to switch between them if the vacuum load is between two different cam settings to get the engine to run better for your application.
Also, I see you have electric fans, are you controlling them with Fitech (I don't so I'm not familiar with adjustments here)? Have you checked out or messed with these settings:
Fan RPM Adder = When the electric fan(s) is(are) turned on, the RPM can be increased by this amount to help both the coolant flow and the alternator speed to generate more voltage for the electrical system.
Fan Idle Steps = When the electric fan(s) is(are) turned on, the RPM can be increased to help both the coolant flow and the alternator speed to generate more voltage for the electrical system. This adjusts how many IAC steps are automatically added when the fan is on so that the loop and learning don’t need to do the work.
Fan info pulled from their page here:
https://fitechefi.com/faq/idle-control/
I know you've been messing with it a lot so sorry if I missed what you mentioned about this.
From this page: https://fitechefi.com/fitech-efi-basic-setup-instructions/
Choosing a cam selection:
Cam selection is based on vacuum load of the engine. Cam 1 is for 15Hg or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg to 10Hg, Cam 4 is 8Hg to 6Hg. These are estimates and you may need to switch between them if the vacuum load is between two different cam settings to get the engine to run better for your application.
Also, I see you have electric fans, are you controlling them with Fitech (I don't so I'm not familiar with adjustments here)? Have you checked out or messed with these settings:
Fan RPM Adder = When the electric fan(s) is(are) turned on, the RPM can be increased by this amount to help both the coolant flow and the alternator speed to generate more voltage for the electrical system.
Fan Idle Steps = When the electric fan(s) is(are) turned on, the RPM can be increased to help both the coolant flow and the alternator speed to generate more voltage for the electrical system. This adjusts how many IAC steps are automatically added when the fan is on so that the loop and learning don’t need to do the work.
Fan info pulled from their page here:
https://fitechefi.com/faq/idle-control/
I know you've been messing with it a lot so sorry if I missed what you mentioned about this.
My coworker had the same issue. I’ll ask him how he fixed it when he gets back from lunch. Seems like it was really simple to fix but not real obvious at the same time
Awesome thanks it's like voodoo working with this stuff for me sometimes lol
You’re years ahead of me though... bolted mine on and then I started building a flatbed or something?
22
22 at idle I actually went back to setting one from 3 which didn't seem to change anything
Dean said he never fixed his.
I'm determined
That does help I didn't think about the decel Iac I was going to play with the loop rate hopefully it's not 120 degrees in the shop tomorrow so I can mess with it. Weather is tarded here right now
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
When Marty Neighbour (a mod on the FiTech owners facebook page and creator if that vid) says hanging idle he is talking about you come off the throttle and it stays there for a bit and then drops. If I am understanding @SpeedlabDan, his is always high (it was at 750 a bit ago when targeted to 650 but is now at 1000, did something change?). If you want guys chiming in that are more knowledgeable than me, and you have fb, join the owners group (but read the pinned post and do a search before you post, or they will be all pissed).
In all my searching vacuum leaks, grounds, IAC out of wack, sticking throttle blades, a throttle body spacer that interferes with the throttle blades, and sticking linkage tend to be the most common culprits of idle problems.
I see. This is the problem that my buddy is having. He really notices it when he’s in deep snow hammering on it and let’s out of it to grab reverse. Says it takes forever to idle down.
Yes it's at 1000rpm now bc I turned the screw in a half a turn bc the throttle was still sticking due to throttle blades. I still can't get down to 600rs idle ever. It idles at 750 and sticks. It does however take a long time to return to 750 and that's what I'm going to try to tune out next. I really haven't put enough time into tuning it yet fairly. Thanks to @Bent77 I walked the TB over with the throttle blades and that cured the "stuck throttle" almost completely. I won't go on Facebook. No way
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Got yah.
And I should have said here:
Those are some of the problems that can't be tuned out or adjusted in the system settings. Hoping yours is something you can figure out in the handheld settings.
