CK5
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First modification to my blazer, what should it be?

Building up a 14 bolt full floater and a 3/4-ton 10 bolt or Dana 44 for the front is a very good idea. You can get the 14FF very cheep (under $100 is cheep to me) and they are VERY easy to find and hard to break. You don't need a D60 up front so don't waste your money. Sometimes it is cheeper to get a matched set of axles to toss under your truck...but you can convert your front to 3/4-ton by just swapping the brakes.

When you lift it keep it low! The higher you lift it the worse it will tow. Also the better it does offroad the worse it will tow.

If it was my truck I would do some somewhat stiff 2.5" leaves up front, an ORD shackle flip out back with some stock 3/4-ton 56" leaves (and adjust the shackle flip bracket to work). Stick with 33" tires and 4.56 gears (you have OD right?). Some adjustable shocks might be nice for when you tow. The steering box brace is a no-brainer. The frame on those trucks is VERY weak. When you put the brace on take off your steering box and weld up any cracks you find.
 
A K5 is just not as forgiving of a tow vehicle, you just need to pay a little more attention while towing than a fullsize pickup.

Hell, I used to tow two quads with my T-Bird!!! The K5 will be fine for snowmobiles.
 
WantedaDodge said:
I don't think the gears are that high, maybe they are... Truck feels pretty good though.

I just can't believe it would have 3.08s though with a tow pack. I'll have to crawl under there and see... They did have axle tags, right?
They did lots of weird stuff , mine came eith nearly every regular option and tow package , yet has a 305 and originally was 3.08 gears . I would of liked to been around back then knowing what I do now and have been the one to choose options . :xmas:
 
No, Chevy's don't usually have axle tags. Check in your glovebox on the options sheet, sometimes it says in there what ratio you have. If not drop the cover and look for numbers on the ring and pinion or count teeth.

If you are going to tow anything somewhat substantial then I would HIGHLY recommend you avoid doing a shackle flip in the back for lift. Get a set of 4-6" springs, they are safer to tow with and that is what towing is about safety.

As for first mod I would do a steering box reinforcement first. Then I would do whatever you feel like.

IMHO I would avoid swaybar disconnects. I feel they are a waste of time if you are going to lift a truck. Once you install a 4" or bigger lift spring you won't need the disconnects. The springs will be stiff enough to handle the job of supporting the truck. I had swaybar disconnects on my truck when I had a 2.5" lift. They did not make enough difference in the onroad driving characteristcs to warranty the money they cost or to mess with having to disconnect an reconnect the swaybar everytime I went offroad. It was a waste of time and money IMHO. I took them off and sold them.

Just make sure the steering box is taken care of and then make sure the whole truck is in good working order. Then put your money where you think it should be. Whether it is lift and tires, motor, axles, gears, lockers, crossover steering, etc.

Harley
 
pauly383k10 said:
They did lots of weird stuff , mine came eith nearly every regular option and tow package , yet has a 305 and originally was 3.08 gears . I would of liked to been around back then knowing what I do now and have been the one to choose options . :xmas:
Ditto, my 85 has the full towing pakage but came with 3.08 gears.
 
I know on dodges the flip kit is a bad idea for towing, figured it would be the same for chevys...

I think I'll do a 10.5 ring gear 14 bolt rear, and I did not realize the 10 bolt was a 8.5 ring gear. I think that's plenty big enough!~

Will the 12 bolt posi that I have work in the 12 bolt car rear end?
 
84_Chevy_K10 said:
First take the swaybar off and throw it away.

Next, get the bolt on steering brace on there.

After that, go to the junkyard and get a pair of 3/4 ton axles and start building them in your garage in your spare time.

By the time your tires are bald your axles will be ready. Then order suspension + tires and swap your new axles in.:D

what tim said! you'll never even miss that ole sway thing, then steering brace, ( tim what a shameless plug:deal: ) then buy axles, then get rims and tires big ones! hurry along now you've got some catchin up to do!
 
I got an '84 K5 two years ago. It came factory with a 305/700R4/208, 10-bolts front and rear with 3.73s.

When I got it, someone had swapped in a 350/TH350/NP205, and it had a 2.5" Suspension lift and 3" body lift with 33" tires.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/30804775/87907996ijzqns

I initially wasn't going to keep it, but after driving it a little while on 10-bolts, I felt like I was on toothpicks for some reason... so I sold the axles and got $300 for the pair, and traded a friend for some 3/4 ton axles (a 14-bolt FF rear and a 10-bolt front with 4.10s).
http://community.webshots.com/photo/230804113/230808129IVtNSK

Then I traded another friend some parts for a 4" suspension lift and put that on, got a light bar on another trade, bought a winch bumper and Warn 8274 winch, and put some 35's on it.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/230804113/230816868pGwgew

Then I wasn't satisfied with the 350 in it, so I got a SB400 on a trade that was a fresh rebuild... made a few changes on it (cam, heads, etc).
http://community.webshots.com/photo/230804113/230808769SlLiGX
http://community.webshots.com/photo/230804113/230809271UACdXo
3728SB4001.jpg


I sold the TH350 tranny for $150, and traded off the NP205 to a friend... and got an SM465 4speed and NP205 out of a '73 Blazer I parted out (so luckily the 465/205 was free to me), and I put that in with the motor.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/230804113/230810517EpQlMr

It's "done" now for the most part. This won't be getting a 60 front. Yet.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/230804113/230810951qEwTzC
3728BlueBlazer.jpg
 
Hmm... Originally, I thought I had the 205 case, but did they mostly come factory with 208s? that is fine with me, even though they aren't as strong, I heard they have like a 2.6 low range instead of 2.0
 
They put only 208's in starting in 1981. 1-tons still had 205's, but 1/2 and 3/4 tons got 208s with every tranny combo. And yes, 208's do have the lower low range. I run an SM465/NP205 in everything of mine. I just like having gears and steel housings for every part. :)
 
WantedaDodge said:
I know on dodges the flip kit is a bad idea for towing, figured it would be the same for chevys...

I think I'll do a 10.5 ring gear 14 bolt rear, and I did not realize the 10 bolt was a 8.5 ring gear. I think that's plenty big enough!~

Will the 12 bolt posi that I have work in the 12 bolt car rear end?
The front 10B is plenty but the rear is not. I would upgrade to 3/4 gear soley for the much larger brakes, lower gears, and FF design since you plan on towing.

Your 12B posi will not work in a truck. A 12b car and truck are completely different axles and about the only thing they do have in common is the number of bolts holding on the cover.
 
ugggg amatures

first do sway bar disconects, build axles, cut the fenders HUGE and than swap the axles in.
oh and dont forget about the strait pipes
 
blackblazer717 said:
first do sway bar disconects, build axles, cut the fenders HUGE and than swap the axles in.
oh and dont forget about the strait pipes
:rolleyes:
This is a towing/DD truck.
 
Ok, now that all of that is done and said, the first modification i would get for it,,,if you haven't got it already that is,,,would be either a blonde,brunette or a redhead seatcover for that other seat next to you.......
 
Forget all that other stuff. The first and only thing you need is a set of trucknutz. Then stomp the skinny pedal and ride. :saweet:
 
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