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Flat towing a V2500 Suburban?

RockBottomRacing

RockBottomRacing

1/2 ton status
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Simi Valley, CA
I’m looking to take my suburban on her first big outing this New Years and I’m trying to figure out the most plausible way to tow her. My Tow Rig is a 2007 Classic Chevy Dually (duramax), I have a big Lance Camper in the back with a 48” hitch extension (Super hitch super truss), the extension is rated to pull 6k pounds. My suburban is a 91 V2500, TBI 350/4L80e/NP241C with a 10 bolt front and 14 bolt SF rear, on 35’s and H2 wheels. I was totally just gonna do a Uhaul trailer with some pizza cutter fronts to fit and swap them when I get to the OHVA, but then I started thinking about weight. How I’m wondering about flat towing. If anyone has any insight or previous experiences please share!
 
ive never flat towed a Chevy- how does the steering do??

also, what about transmission overrun with the auto? isnt that bad for the pump and bands and other super secret auto transmission stuff? parts turning, but no oil pumping?? heat and wear with no lube??
 
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flat towed a baja bug - needed the steering wheel bungied down straight ahead
flat towed a 1962 scout all over hell and creation - that was a lot of fun

towed a suburban on a trailer, with another suburban one time... and the suburban was like Noooooooooooooooo tooo heavy...
and the other suburban was all like - yeah you know you like it.
 
oh yeah - forgot i flat towed the M1009 with my other K5 one time - just around town to give my buddy a laugh-just thought it looked funny, and the m1009 came with a tow bar on the front... and the other blazer was just sitting there with the receiver ready to go...

one thing that may have not been good with my scout when i flat towed it, and something ive never checked with my 241 tranfer case...
on the dana 18, when you shift the transfer case into neutral, it engages the front driveshaft? the 18 was an offset front and rear case... apparently even though it was a twin stick, without modifying things, the act of popping the transfer case into neutral couples the front and rear driveshafts. i was told that was very bad to flat tow like that, and to stop doing it. -Was better to leave the transfer case in hi range, and put the transmission in neutral -back driveshaft turning, but front driveshaft not engaged.

Its been a while since i looked inside the 241- only one lever to do it all... cant remember if there even is a neutral setting? its just engaged in 2WD Hi all the way foreword, and then pull back for 4wd... and then into the second gate and back again for low range. was there something in between? would imagine that would still leave the front coupled though.

would it be best to swap a full floating rear axle and buy lockout hubs like the front, so you can freewheel all 4 wheels if flat towing? Ive Seen people do that with Landcruisers and flat tow behind RVs that way. Nothing but the wheel bearings and tires see the extra miles?
 
I took the rear dshaft loose, taped the u joint up, and ratchet strapped it up to the cross member between the tank and transmission. Tcase and trans in neutral for just in case. I unlocked the column and disconnected the battery for steering. It followed along for a 6 hour tow.
 
RockBottomRacing said:
I’m looking to take my suburban on her first big outing this New Years and I’m trying to figure out the most plausible way to tow her. My Tow Rig is a 2007 Classic Chevy Dually (duramax), I have a big Lance Camper in the back with a 48” hitch extension (Super hitch super truss), the extension is rated to pull 6k pounds. My suburban is a 91 V2500, TBI 350/4L80e/NP241C with a 10 bolt front and 14 bolt SF rear, on 35’s and H2 wheels. I was totally just gonna do a Uhaul trailer with some pizza cutter fronts to fit and swap them when I get to the OHVA, but then I started thinking about weight. How I’m wondering about flat towing. If anyone has any insight or previous experiences please share!
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I flat towed my built k5 behind an old crew cab with a 350 all over California for a few years, never had a problem.
It tracked fine.
Just make sure you plan your every move right so you don't need to back up.
To do that you need to disconnect most of the time.
 
I have flat towed many trucks all over the country. I would not recommend it with a wheeler that may be broke down for the return trip. You run the risk of not getting home on time should something in the suspension, steering, or wheels/ tires fail on the trails.

Flat towing requires the tires, wheels, suspension, and steering all be in good condition for a reliable tow. Even getting a flat tire and using a slightly different spare can be enough to cause a problem.
 
kennyw said:
I have flat towed many trucks all over the country. I would not recommend it with a wheeler that may be broke down for the return trip. You run the risk of not getting home on time should something in the suspension, steering, or wheels/ tires fail on the trails.

Flat towing requires the tires, wheels, suspension, and steering all be in good condition for a reliable tow. Even getting a flat tire and using a slightly different spare can be enough to cause a problem.
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I agree, that's why I was very gentle with my wheeling, and when I broke once, I got a flatbed tow truck.
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
I took the rear dshaft loose, taped the u joint up, and ratchet strapped it up to the cross member between the tank and transmission. Tcase and trans in neutral for just in case. I unlocked the column and disconnected the battery for steering. It followed along for a 6 hour tow.
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yeah that should do it- i guess all things considered, isnt THAT much work to strap up the driveshaft. just wouldn't want it getting loose if you have a slip yoke
 
scouthead said:
yeah that should do it- i guess all things considered, isnt THAT much work to strap up the driveshaft. just wouldn't want it getting loose if you have a slip yoke
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I have a dolly now and I move cars all the time with it and that's what I do with the driveshaft whether it's slip yoke or not.
Disconnect the rear and tie it off high
 
I blew up a dodge truck manual transmission once because I did not disconnect the Driveshaft while flat towing.
 
Wow thanks for all the replies guys! I plan to pull it with the rear shaft strapped up unhooked from the diff, she’s got new steering and suspension, the 35’s are almost brand new (used take-offs from an H2 and receipts showed 6k miles with one rotation), gonna do shocks and an alignment and call it there.

Any thoughts about the weight against my hitch extension? It’s 6k pounds regular or 12k with weight distribution, so I was wondering, since it’s being flat towed the weight distribution shouldn’t be that much of a problem, and I’ll definitely not be driving the dually like a corvette with a 3/4 ton suburban behind it with no brakes. One day I hope to get me a nice flat bed trailer with brakes to pull her but a uhaul 2” ball not so much…

If I break her, the trails I’m going to are within distance for AAA to tow it home when I bring her back down, or close enough I can drive home drop the camper my wife and kid off swing around to pick up a trailer and winch and drive back to get it without too much complaint, so I’m really more just concerned about the weight of the suburban versus the hitch extension, but it didn’t even come close to feeling my boat behind it so… ‍♂️
 
As long as you have a backup plan for carnage, it will not be too bad. Don't forget a set of tow lights or wiring up the Suburban wiring to run off the tow rig. Also plan to inspect connections at every stop. I have seen bolts loosen up unexpectedly many times while flat towing as my tow bar brackets used a single bolt through the bumper/frame to attach to the vehicle. Occasionally, the lock nuts still come loose.
 
Another point of interest, make sure the tow bar is as flat as possible when you set it up. Angled up, they will start to lift the rear of the tow rig while braking. Angled down, they compress your rear suspension while braking. Both scenarios provide an extra layer of excitement during panic stops that is not needed.
 
kennyw said:
Another point of interest, make sure the tow bar is as flat as possible when you set it up. Angled up, they will start to lift the rear of the tow rig while braking. Angled down, they compress your rear suspension while braking. Both scenarios provide an extra layer of excitement during panic stops that is not needed.
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I will be getting the appropriate drop hitch and flipped for that very purpose, also have no intentions to allow that to be a problem lol
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
We flat towed my sub recently with a 2500 gasser. My father in law said it was noticeable behind him but not awful. My sub is on tons, 38s and was loaded down so it was heavy.

We used a harbor freight tow bar.

View attachment 397459
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Hey question, where did you bolt the tow bar mounts on the front? That’s what I’m trying to figure it out lol
 
I have a tna winch cradle, so i just punched holes in the face, and mounted my hookup points as far outboard and low as i could.

I'll try and take a couple pics in the daylight tomorrow.
 
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