CK5
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Flexplate to crank bolt torque
- Thread starter cuervo
- Start date
I can't for the life of me ever remember there being this many trolls on this site. If you have nothing to offer to the main topic please don't post and since that questioned has been answered it would seem ever post after that is a bait for no other reason then to troll.
Ever break the ear off of an aluminum intake manifold? Ever crush an oil pan gasket and it leak? Ever strip out a harmonic balancer pulley bolt hole? Ever crack a case iron exhaust manifold?
I would say thank you, but since I followed the recommended torque on the flexplate I'm not in the market for a crank.
Ok to untroll a little I will tell you this. EVERY fastener on a GM vehicle has a torque spec. This is mostly to prevent what you said about breaking or overtightening. Still in most cause its just to prevent the Ham fisted and unknowing from breaking stuff. Martin may go a little overboard on his suggestions but anyone who has worked on cars for awhile will tell you it will work the way he suggested. I don't break stuff because I understand how tight to tighten stuff. I am not saying my arm in calibrated but if you use a 1/4 rachet to tighten oil pan bolt it's pretty hard to over tighten them. Same with using a wrench on intake bolts. I am sure you just want to do the right thing cause you have a new engine and don't want to mess it up. Just remember at some point its stupid. Seriously to you use the belt tension gauge to tighten belts? The a/c brackets to engine bolts should be 21 lb/ft. Starter should be 28lb/ft. Spark plugs 22 lb/ft. The only other thing I have to add is saying a engineer figured out how to tighten it carries very little weight. I have found most engineers to be some of the most ignorant, non-mechanically inclined group I have ever met. I once spent 45 min telling one how to remove his wheel so he could paint his caliper. So in short do what you want, don't worry about Marty, but remember right/wrong can be a little ways apart.
The aircraft I work on, even little #4 screws have a very specific torque, as to NOT crush the fragile aluminum structure below them. Now, depending on what is being tightened together, you may or may not just tighten it until it won't turn any longer using a 3/8 drive impact with a Hi-tork bit(very similar to a phillips bit but shaped more like a swastika. Just don't let the bit spin in the head, and your good.
But engine trussmount bolts are another deal all together. At over 3/8 inch diameter at the shank, and being an interference fit(a couple of thousandths thicker than the hole they're fitting into, the hole must be step drilled, then reamed to size, then test fitted using a fixture w/ metal die. after all that then you can tighten a nut on it and only tighten to get this 180 +/- 20 inch/lbs, then B 1/2 sealant over the top of the head and nut to stop any loosening in the future.
The moral of the story; is yes torquing every little thing can get super tedious, but, sometimes it's super critical.
But engine trussmount bolts are another deal all together. At over 3/8 inch diameter at the shank, and being an interference fit(a couple of thousandths thicker than the hole they're fitting into, the hole must be step drilled, then reamed to size, then test fitted using a fixture w/ metal die. after all that then you can tighten a nut on it and only tighten to get this 180 +/- 20 inch/lbs, then B 1/2 sealant over the top of the head and nut to stop any loosening in the future.
The moral of the story; is yes torquing every little thing can get super tedious, but, sometimes it's super critical.
I have a buddy that certified in airframe and power plant. He works at a local airport doing annual and repair. The funniest thing I have ever seen was when I walked in one day and saw him in his "uniform". It consisted of button up shirt with the sleeves cut off, cut off jeans complete with pliers pouch, Lace up cowboy boots that came up mid calf and greasy seed corn cap. It that doesn't inspire confidence in your airplane repair idk what would. He keeps buying chevy 4x4s for cheap and parts out the good parts and scraps the rest. We now call him Lamont. Has a nice 78 k5 with 3/4ton axles.
???
If it involves Troll never mind.
Just curious.
I was guessing "couldn't have said it better" but missing lots of letters.
Almost makes me embarrassed to say, I'm an A&P Mechanic myself. Got to live by the book!
He torques everything and uses the book religiously. Just makes me think about Cooters garage. We are all a little back woods but that doesn't mean we are teh dumb.
I think this is what Tim was getting at. it's OK now and then to just tighten it till it stops turning. But, use you head about it. If it's possible to really wreck something, stop, break out the Torque wrench and do job correctly.
Seriously I only use a torque wrench for heads/mains and rods but you also don't see me using a 1/2 flex head on a 1/4" bolt. Of course I know people that could bend a prybar in a sandpile. My old man is one of them. He wants everything TIGHT and makes everything out of 1/4" plate. If I catch him tightening a oil filter with the wrench again I may just brake his arm.
