for all you guys who have oil questions...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by StageZ, Jul 26, 2001.

  1. StageZ

    StageZ Registered Member

    Jul 2, 2001
    Likes Received:
    Los angeles CA
    A real and constant question seems to be oils and what is the best one for my car/truck/bike... here is a good amount of info about oil ect that might just help you out.... hope it does...

    You *can* cool an engine to much. The ideal temperature for coolant is 190 F.
    AntiFreeze has 1/4 heat transfer capability of straight water

    Synthetic Oil has 10% better heat transfer than Petrolium based lubricants

    Red Line does not reccomend DOT-5 Brake Fluid for racing. More compressible at temperature

    Red Line does not reccomend mixing race oil with regular oil.

    Red Line reccomends breaking in an engine on straight viscosity oil.

    Do not use silicone brake fluid in ABS systems, as there is no lubrication for ABS pump.

    Use Race Oil for 3 to 4 Events.

    Basis of Lubricants
    1) Separate Surfaces 2) Removal of Heat (up to 1/3 of combustion heat may be transferred away from engine by oil) 3) Containment of Contaminants 4) Sealing

    Mercon and Dexron II are almost identical

    Slick 50
    Lubrisol, Dema Elgin, a Ford Engineer all agree that it does not do anything. According to Roy, to plate teflon on a metal needs an absolutely clean, high temperature surface, in a vacuum. Therefore, it is highly unlikely that the teflon in slick 50 actually plates the metal surface. In addition the Cf (Coefficient of friction) of Teflon is actually greater than the Cf of an Oil Film on Steel. Also, if the teflon did fill in 'craters' in the steel, than it would fill in the honing of the cylinder, and the oil would not seal the piston rings.

    Phomblin (Another chemical similar to Teflon, used in polishes) is a flouridated ether, has low valitility, is very inert, has low surface tension, and is very expensive. Owned by MontEdison.

    STP is a VI.

    Castrol R is Castor Oil based. Good lubrication, but dirty.

    Methyl Lead goes to intake faster than Ethyl Lead. EPA now has authority to outlaw lead entirely.

    Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone are surfactants and penetrants.

    Neo and other Zero Weight oils are actually 0W - 20 multigrade oils, so as soon as they warm up, they are effectively 20 weight oil.

    Engine Temperature Chart (F)
    Upper Cylinder Wall 300 - 500
    Exhaust Valve 1200 - 1500
    Piston Crown 700 - 800
    Hydraulic Valve Lifter 250 - 300
    Crankcase 200 - 300
    Top Ring 300 - 650
    Exhaust Gases 500 - 1000
    Combustion Chamber 3000 - 5000
    Coolant Jacket 165 - 230
    Connecting Rod Bearings 200 - 375
    Main Bearings 200 - 350

    Bearing Grease
    Dont fully pack the hub, as it will just overflow. As it turns, the bearing cust the grease, and oil leaks out. This oil then provides the lubrication.

    Gear oil viscosity is measured at 150 F vs. 210 F for motor oil. Therefore, 40 W motor oil is the same as 95 W gear oil.

    Gear oil is acidic, motor oil is alkiline. Gear oil needs very high wear protoection - Extreme Pressure (marked as EP). Therefore, it has a very high sulfer and phospor content. Sulfur and Phosphate reactions start at a lower temperature, and Gear Oil has much more additive than motor oil. This additive is corrosive to copper bearings and bronze synchro rings.

    Positraction additives are Friction modifiers - make the base oil much more slippery. They coat the metal surfaces, and prevent the stick/slip mode of operation, preventing shudder, and causes smoother take-up. Friction Modifiers may detract from EP characteristics.

    Friction modifiers cause smooth take-up of Limited slip units. For track racing, FM is probably undesireable, and immediate take-up is more important. For Street, FM is usually reccomended for more comfortable operation.

    Gear oils decompose at lower temperature, usually 250 F.

    Gear Lubrication Ratings

    GL-1 No Additives
    GL-4 Suitable for light duty hypoid sets
    GL-5 Has lots of sulfer - Heavy duty hypoids
    Hypoid type gear sets have a sliding rather than rolling action, and therefore require much greater wear protection.

    GL-5 Should be used in rear differentials.

    GL-6 is a heavier weight GL-5. Used for heavy trucks and Tow Vehicles.

    Gear mesh in Gears litterally chops up and cuts appart the long polymer chains of Viscosity Index improvers.

    Smell of gear oil is from high sulfur content.

    Quaiff Differential is a worm gear, and needs a very slippery oil.

    Molybdenum in CV joint lube is important in high-angle CV joints, especially off-road applications, where wet lub may be thrown from contact area. The moly provides a dry-film lubrication

    The weak link is the rod bearings and Cam, in terms of rate of shear. There is less friction at the piston rings. Anti Wear is much more important at the cam.

    Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base
    (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms
    up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to
    flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin
    to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as
    it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned
    only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of
    looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that
    will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
    Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they
    should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span
    of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to
    encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you
    will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The
    polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking
    and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics
    excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel
    engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity
    range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown
    due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the
    additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are thebest.
    Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void
    warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that
    reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a
    heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do
    the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity
    index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no
    viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow
    your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate
    for your vehicle.

    Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown. Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendancy for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F. Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F. % sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content. % zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high reving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.

    The Data:
    Listed alphabetically --- indicates the data was not avaliable

    Brand VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc

    AMSOIL 136 482 -38 <.5 ---
    Castrol GTX 122 440 -15 .85 .12
    Exxon High Performance 119 419 -13 .70 .11
    Havoline Formula 3 125 465 -30 1.0 ---
    Kendall GT-1 129 390 -25 1.0 .16
    Pennzoil GT Perf. 120 460 -10 .9 ---
    Quaker State Dlx. 155 430 -25 .9 ---
    Shell Truck Guard 130 450 -15 1.0 .15
    Spectro Golden 4 174 440 -35 --- .15
    Spectro Golden M.G. 174 440 -35 --- .13
    Unocal 121 432 -11 .74 .12
    Valvoline All Climate 125 430 -10 1.0 .11
    Valvoline Turbo 140 440 -10 .99 .13
    Valvoline Race 140 425 -10 1.2 .20

    Castrol Multi-Grade 110 440 -15 .85 .12
    Quaker State 121 415 -15 .9 ---

    Chevron 204 415 -18 .96 .11
    Mobil 1 170 470 -55 --- ---
    Mystic JT8 144 420 -20 1.7 .15

    Castrol Syntec 180 437 -45 1.2 .10

    AMSOIL 135 460 -38 <.5 ---
    Castrol 134 415 -15 1.3 .14
    Chevron Delo 400 136 421 -27 1.0 ---
    Exxon XD3 --- 417 -11 .9 .14
    Exxon XD3 Extra 135 399 -11 .95 .13
    Kendall GT-1 135 410 -25 1.0 .16
    Mystic JT8 142 440 -20 1.7 .15
    Shell Rotella w/XLA 146 410 -25 1.0 .13
    Valvoline All Fleet 140 --- -10 1.0 .15
    Valvoline Turbo 140 420 -10 .99 .13

    AMSOIL 142 480 -70 <.5 ---
    Castrol GTX 140 415 -33 .85 .12
    Chevron Supreme 150 401 -26 .96 .11
    Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 392 -22 .70 .11
    Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 400 -31 .85 .13
    Havoline Formula 3 139 430 -30 1.0 ---
    Kendall GT-1 139 390 -25 1.0 .16
    Mobil 1 160 450 -65 --- ---
    Pennzoil PLZ Turbo 140 410 -27 1.0 ---
    Quaker State 156 410 -30 .9 ---
    Shell Fire and Ice 155 410 -35 .9 .12
    Shell Super 2000 155 410 -35 1.0 .13
    Shell Truck Guard 155 405 -35 1.0 .15
    Spectro Golden M.G. 175 405 -40 --- ---
    Unocal Super 153 428 -33 .92 .12
    Valvoline All Climate 130 410 -26 1.0 .11
    Valvoline Turbo 135 410 -26 .99 .13
    Valvoline Race 130 410 -26 1.2 .20

    AMSOIL 168 480 -76 <.5 ---
    Castrol GTX 156 400 -35 .80 .12
    Chevron Supreme 202? 354 -46 .96 .11
    Exxon Superflow HP 148 392 -22 .70 .11
    Havoline Formula 3 158 420 -40 1.0 ---
    Mobil 1 165 445 -65 --- ---
    Mystic JT8 161 390 -25 .95 .1
    Quaker State 165 405 -35 .9 ---
    Shell Fire and Ice 167 405 -35 .9 .12
    Unocal 151 414 -33 .81 .12
    Valvoline All Climate 135 405 -40 1.0 .11
    Valvoline Turbo 158 405 -40 .99 .13

    If you have a high milage car and have been using regular oil, swiching to synthetic might not be the thing you want to do... regular oil is much thicker and has a habit of not reaching all the engines parts... so, when and if you do swich to synthetic, you might just find you are burning oil or getting blow by... so pick your oil right...

    These figures are givin by the oil companies as well as private and government testing.... but it is still info I got of the internet... so dont blame me if they are are not all accurate... they are also from 2000 so I am sure some of the #s arent right for 2001... but, I am sure that this might be your best bet on gettin the info you need to pick your oil right and not just buy what is the most expencive and hope for the best...
  2. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

    Jul 3, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Ellsworth, Maine
    Great info.. i actually read the whole thing...
    Thanks... I feel edumicated (educated) I was just trying to be funny..
    Appreciate it..

    Round Rock, Texas I haven't failed, I've found 10,000 ways that don't work. <a target="_blank" href=></a>
  3. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

    Nov 6, 2000
    Likes Received:
    portland oregon
    WOW thanks for the good info i also read the whole thing and found it very interesting[​IMG]

    77blazer see it at<a target="_blank" href=></a>
  4. StageZ

    StageZ Registered Member

    Jul 2, 2001
    Likes Received:
    Los angeles CA
    i have a ton more info, but that was the only FUN parts...
  5. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Feb 21, 2001
    Likes Received:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    Dude that was good. Post the rest or e-mail it to me if it is too much to post.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
  6. kristoffer

    kristoffer Registered Member

    May 21, 2001
    Likes Received:
    wery intresting:)

    1977 blazer k5 cheyene

    Sory for my bad english! :)

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