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Front axle moved 1.5 in forward?

aj's tonka truck

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I have installed a dana 60 axle under my 91 blazer. I plan to install the EZ INCH from DIY4X in order to move my axle forward 1.5 in. and to give me an extra 1 in. of lift for the HD bumper and winch that I plan on installing. Question is, will this affect the front shock when I go to install it? It seems like it may cause a problem. Has anyone out there moved their front axle forward on their blazer and if so, what problems did it cause and how did you fix the problems? Also, is 1.5 in. to much to move it? I could just move it 1 in. I would rather the 1 1/2 if no problem. Once again, I thank you for the help.
 
May axle is 2" forward from longer springs but it didn't create any problems for me so far. I haven't hooked up any shocks yet but I doubt it would cause any problems with the range of motion unless your lift allows a lot of travel but in that case the stock upper mount is usually too short.

How big of a lift and tire are you using? I'm running almost 8" w/ 43's and my tire chew on the bottom of the core support when turning and compressing. I don't have the fenderwells in yet but they'll probbly hit too.
 
I am running a ord shackle flip, ord zero rate, 1" body lift and 1 ton axles which puts me at about 6 1/2 to 7 in. of lift. I am not finish with the build yet, but I am planning on 37" tires. I am afraid 38" tires would be to big and I really don't want to cut any more fender than I have to.
 
Yeah, I chopped a fair amount off of mine.

I forgot, if you're running crossover I believe it will go as far as 3" forward before any problems.

Also, if you still have a sway bar you'll have to lose it when you move the axle forward.
 
I am running the ORD crossover & I am going to use the EZ inch to move it forward 1.5". I was hopeing to be able to get a sway bar from a 3/4 ton or 1 ton vehicle to help on the highway but you say I can't? Why is that? Also, I was looking at the upper shock mount, My blazer came with quad shock mounts and the upper one is the one I plan to use, anyway, it seems like it will change the angle of the shock when the axle is moved forward and the top shock mount is rivited to the frame. Just not sure what to think.
 
The crossover will keep you from using a factory sway bar (regardless of 1/2, 3/4 or 1 ton) because the drag link would hit. You might find an after market sway bar that'll work but I don't know.
 
OK, I see what you mean. I didn't think about that. Well, this is a new adventure for me. Anyway, what do you think, will I have to grind out the rivits on the top shock mount and try to move it forward 1 1/2 in. to keep the geomentry the same or it will work as is? Seems that since the axle is moved forward the eye of the shock in the top mount would be too much? At an angle that is.
 
yep

crossover AND axle moved forward are two death sentences for a sway bar. Factory bar that is

I'd finish the lift and check the upper shock mount and angle before cutting anything
 
Thanks k85 octane, I will do that. I don't need any extra work for nothing. Also, when you move the front axle forward 1 1/2 in, does this help in the front driveshaft angle or does it make it worse? What changes if any does this do to the pinion angle? It seems to move the axle up a little on the arch of the spring. Will this cause any problems?
 
I don't see you having any issues with the shock mount, mine is moved forward an inch and I haven't had any issues. With your lift, it should be reducing the angle the shock is at relative to mine too (I'm only running stock rear 52" springs on the front).

Moving the axle forward will make the driveshaft longer which should reduce the angle a small amount. Probably not enough to notice though. I would think the zero rate should keep the load close enough to the center pin on the spring to prevent it from rolling the pinion down with the arch of the spring, but that opinion is from my experience with much flatter springs. If it does, that's going to screw up your caster though, in which case you might want to get some of those tapered zero rates that I think Kert makes.

If you have a good shackle angle that's hinged back at ride height properly, that will also help your pinion angle by moving the rear of the spring closer to the frame.
 
I don't see you having any issues with the shock mount, mine is moved forward an inch and I haven't had any issues. With your lift, it should be reducing the angle the shock is at relative to mine too (I'm only running stock rear 52" springs on the front).

Moving the axle forward will make the driveshaft longer which should reduce the angle a small amount. Probably not enough to notice though. I would think the zero rate should keep the load close enough to the center pin on the spring to prevent it from rolling the pinion down with the arch of the spring, but that opinion is from my experience with much flatter springs. If it does, that's going to screw up your caster though, in which case you might want to get some of those tapered zero rates that I think Kert makes.

If you have a good shackle angle that's hinged back at ride height properly, that will also help your pinion angle by moving the rear of the spring closer to the frame.
Thanks for the info owenst7, I guess I will check for the angles after I install the EZ inch, then lower the weight of the vehicle back on the axle and see where we are. This will seem like a dumb question but how does one know if there is a caster problem if you are working in your driveway and don't have a front alignment machine at your disposal. What do you look for on the caster? Also, can you tell me of any other issues I might need to be aware of? THANKS
 
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